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Old 01-01-2012, 09:13 AM   #1
ray fischer
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Electrical ? 15 amp winter camping

My son, who lives in S.Md, is closing on a house 1/25 which we need to do extensive remodeling before he can move in. I'm going down to help. I can park my F/W next to house and plug into 15 amp while waiting to get electrician in to run me a 30 amp hook up. I'll be using the house to bathe and cook etc, but want to sleep and recline in F/W. Will I be able to run elec htr, TV, frige, et while plugged into 15 amp outside receptacle? We don't have access to house before closing to get elec done. Also, there's a 220 dryer outlet inside that I could possibly reach thru a window, but the 220 has the L shaped blade vs the anacondas straight blade. Can I make that work? As I've stated in previous posts, I'm elec/tech challenged. Thanks, Ray
 
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:29 AM   #2
camper4
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You can run all mentioned things except the electric heater from a 15 amp service.
Personally I would not put a cord thru the window for 220. I would wait the extra day to get it done right.
You can run one electric heater from a 15 amp source but not much else. You could run the 5er on propane with the 15 amp service for the battery charger and maybe a heater.
Good luck with the house.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:34 AM   #3
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Ray, with 15 amps you won't be able to run much. A decent size heater will draw almost that much by it's self. Sounds like that dryer outlet is the 3 prong type? You should be able to purchase a 50 Rcpt and put it in place of the dryer outlet, but you might have to jumper the Neutral and Ground together, assuming that there is only 3 wires to the present outlet. Wouldn't give you the normal full 50 Amp Service, but would give you plenty of power for your heater and normal things, I just wouldn't want to try running 2 ACs, Electric Hot Water and Microwave all at the same time. Hope that helps start you in the right direction.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:42 AM   #4
H. John Kohl
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Ray,
DO NOT USE THE 220 DRYER OUTLET. [s]It can be used but an interface box needs to be built to redirect the wires to make them compatible with your 50 amp on the trailer.[/s] The wiring is different and would have to be changed at the circuit breaker and the dryer outlet changed to an RV outlet. Per Jim Fischer.

You can use the 15 amp but make sure the extension cord is heavy duty. If you don't have one, I claim it is worth the investment to carry with you.

Second thought you can use two extension cords. One to trailer and second one directly to the electrical heater so it is powered by the house and not the Monty. Feed through the convenience center or the "hole" at the corner of your living room slide. Lift the carpet at the corner. I like this idea better. Make sure the two extension cords are fed from separate breakers in the house.

Ref: power usage as with anything you will have to be cautious on overload. Your water heater, microwave, and electric heater each at max can use 15 amps to 20 amps. So I recommend not running them at the same time. You will have to have access to the house circuit panel to trip the breaker when you forget and exceed current draw.

You can use your water heater and furnace on propane and not use the electric heater. That will require a bottle refill about each three days.



Good luck and these are my opinion.
Happy New Year and safe travels.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:45 AM   #5
ols1932
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ray fischer

My son, who lives in S.Md, is closing on a house 1/25 which we need to do extensive remodeling before he can move in. I'm going down to help. I can park my F/W next to house and plug into 15 amp while waiting to get electrician in to run me a 30 amp hook up. I'll be using the house to bathe and cook etc, but want to sleep and recline in F/W. Will I be able to run elec htr, TV, frige, et while plugged into 15 amp outside receptacle? We don't have access to house before closing to get elec done. Also, there's a 220 dryer outlet inside that I could possibly reach thru a window, but the 220 has the L shaped blade vs the anacondas straight blade. Can I make that work? As I've stated in previous posts, I'm elec/tech challenged. Thanks, Ray
Ray, during those times when we've found ourselves limited to 15 amps, we run the refrigerator and water heater on propane (only use the water heater when hot water is needed). My wife uses her hair dryer, or she uses her elec. frying pan, or we watch TV and we use our computer. If we had a coffee maker (we borrowed one), we used it. However, the appliances can be used only one at a time.

You can get by. Just be judicious in the way you use your power. If you happen to trip a breaker, acknowledge it and reset it.

Orv
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:25 AM   #6
ray fischer
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Great replies, thanks. I won't need water htr, and I can stay winterized and use the house facilities until I get 30 amp box. But because of the dirt, dust, paint fumes etc, and no furniture going in until we rip out all the carpet, paint every room, then put down laminate, I'd rather sleep and relax in the F/W. Since I can't use 220, they'll need it for dryer, I'll get 30 amp run. But, John,I like your idea of 2nd ext run from a different source directly into slide out for my elec htr. I'll run my 30 amp cord with adaptor to the nearby outside outlet for the trailer connect. Thanks again, Ray
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Old 01-01-2012, 02:39 PM   #7
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Do keep in mind when connected to the house in this way, there is some 4-6 amps being used to run the converter, leaving only 11-10 amps left over for other things (on a 15 amp circuit).

Using two different heavy duty extension cords is a great idea. Like everyone else mentions power management is critical and knowing what each things draws when its started up versus what it uses when it's running will help. Beware that even if multiple things are running successfully, they could be running at less than recommended and cause long term damage over long periods. The circuit won't necessarily overload and cause the circuit breaker to set, so be careful to run as little high amperage things at the same time as other things. Having the heater on its own separate power cord is a great idea.

I agree with most that running the fridge, WH, furnace on propane on 12v/propane, 12v lights will probably help with the load especially since the A/C is not usually needed this time of year. Then run the high amp stuff one at a time; hair dryer, microwave, leave the electric WH heater off. Other things to turn off while using these high amp things are the television, satellite box, DVD player and any 110v lighting.

I hope things go well on the remodel for you and your son! Congrats to him on the new home.
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:04 PM   #8
ray fischer
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Hopefully, I'll only have to rough it for a few days until I can get the electrician in. Since I can shower and cook etc in the house, I won't need water heater. I want to keep propane use down by keeping furnace on 60 and using fireplace or heater to keep warm. The seperate ext cord John Kohl suggested for the heater will solve my problem. Once I get 30 amp, I'll feel more comfortable.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:53 PM   #9
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All very good replies. I might add that we made up a 50 amp receptacle box with two 20 amp plugs coming out of it. One plug goes to a 20 amp outlet and the other plug goes into a different 20 amp outlet on a different circuit, regardless of phase. This way we get two legs of 20 amps which with our meters allows us to adjust for current usage.


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Old 01-03-2012, 12:15 AM   #10
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Ray,
John Kohl has kept me abreast of your conversation regarding your power needs. Even though you have 220 volts in the room you want to tap off of, the amperage rating of the wiring is the big issue. Do have an electrician set you up so you won't have any problems. Good luck with the renovations.
Jim
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:28 AM   #11
ray fischer
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Thanks again for all the help. My sons arranging for electrician to come right after closing. Thanks to you guys, I understand the needs and issues a lot better. Happy New Year, Ray
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:01 AM   #12
Phil P
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Hi

Before I get into this let me make some statements.

I don’t recommend using the dryer outlet with any kind of “interface box”.

I don’t recommend any one try to change the receptacle to accommodate a 50 amp RV unless you are a licensed electrician.

I don’t recommend using a service for your RV that doesn’t include a separate ground wire.

I don’t recommend using 2 110-volt extension cords plugged into separate outlets the way you describe in your post.

My qualification is I have training certificates in 3-phase AC. This has nothing to do with household electric wiring.

Now my practical experience does take me into household wiring. I also have coffee with a licensed electrician on Wednesday morning and I do pick his brain about a lot of the electrical stuff I see here.

The difference between the dryer receptacle and the 50-amp RV receptacle is 20 amps and the lack of a separate ground wire. The house wiring will be the correct size for a 30-amp 220-volt circuit. A licensed electrical would not use the existing wiring or circuit breaker to install a 50 receptcale.


Now a word of caution about using 2 110-volt extension cords.
It is possible by plugging in to different parts of the house to wind up with a 220 volt potential between the 2 cords. By wiring direct to one unit as you have indicated you could possibly set your self up to damage something or your self. The “Cheater Box” that some of use in 30 amp only RV parks is wired so that is doesn’t make any difference if the 2 110 receptacles used are on different line circuits or not. Although it will not fool a GFI receptacle.


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Old 01-03-2012, 04:26 AM   #13
ray fischer
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Phil, I received PMs from John Kohl and NCFisher saying the same thing about the 220. I'll have the electrician either rewire the wiring that exists to a 30 amp RV grounded recepticle plus the necessary changes in the breaker box, or run a new circuit. The existing wire would save running new wire from the farthest end of house. NOT TWO extensions. At first I'll use 30 amp cord with reducer to outside 110 outlet. Then I'll run a heavy duty extension thru the slide out direct to my electric htr in the trailer as per John Kohl suggestion, completely bypassing the trailers system. This will only be used until the electrician gets in to set me up right. I really appreciate all the info. Thats why I love this forum, the info is invaluable.
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