Converter Testing?

[dodtlbug]

My 2006 3500RL has been parked for over a year. When we went to use it the battery (original - fully charged) would not hold a charge.

I replaced the battery with one from AutoZone (Dual Purpose - Marine/RV? - didn't think of WalMart . . .). Spent one full day camping and this battery went dead - ending the camping trip (no Air, no DC power at all . . .)!

I believe this new battery is okay, but not so sure about the converter. I thought the converter should have carried the DC load while connected to AC at the site, but it didn't! After coming home early and hooking up, the converter seemed to work just fine. Not sure where to go next.

Any pointers on testing the converter? Other ideas?

[noneck]

Sooo, that really sounds strange. When plugged into AC you should use the Monitor and select battery...all LEDs should light up indicating voltage around 13.5 to 14 vdc. Anything less than all LEDs indicates its running just off battery and something is amiss with the converter.

[bsmeaton]

Make sure both fuses in the panel for the converter are OK. Loosing one can make things go pretty strange on the low voltage side, as we have experienced.

[KathyandDave]

You may want to open the converter's DC connection access cover (disconnect AC plug and pull the main DC fuses first) and check that the wiring to the terminals is secure and that the terminals aren't touching each other or the case. I have the t-shirt on this one.
Also, do you have the same truck you started with and is the 12VDC+ wiring to the 7-pin energized?

[dodtlbug]

Thanks for the input! I've not been able to reply due to traveling (work). I'll attempt to reply to all three inputs in the one reply:

- I have checked the Battery lights at the panel and did not notice anything unusual (several times over the course of the day - until the AC went off - then I noticed the Battery was very low).

- I removed the cover and checked every Circuit Breakers (AC and DC) individually - found one Ground wire running over the top of the AC Converter lines and rerouted that one ground wire. Also noted the Converter wire sleeves were cracked where the Manufacturer bent the leads to attach to the Power and Ground straps (ground wire was in this area). These I taped as a precaution.

- I have the same truck as I started with and using a 7-pin connection. Haven't had any issues between the truck and the trailer . . .

Now, I'm just stummped. I know that when I find the solution - it will probably be staring me right in the face, but I'm at a loss.

I'm open for more advice . . . .

[Montana_8932]

With the rig on shore power, test the voltage at the batteries. if it's over 13 volts, the problem is the battery. If the voltage is below 13, then you have a converter problem. Go to your 12 volt fuse panel and test the voltage at any of the fuses. Again, if it's below 13 volts, something is amiss with the converter...
Hope this helps.

[bw2]

On my 3400, there are two 30 amp 12v fuses on the left side of the panel. I had one of the fuses 'blown' this caused me a lot of time to find. I "looked" at the fuse instead of using a ohm meter and testing the fuse. Looking failed, testing worked, replaced the fuse and all was well.

Good luck

[Thunderman]

Many times those fuses will be bad even though one may look good. They work in paralel. If you replace one then you probably need to replace both.
parallaxpower.com pps esm dlr is a good source for information. They accept questions via email and are usually prompt with answers.

[dodtlbug]

Well,

I finally got the opportunity to test the converter and actually removed the darn thing only to find out it did NOT have the two fuses mounted to it. Guess I'll replace the fuses and test again.