2020 GM / Andersen Ultimate question...

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by powerhaulic

Well you're just a lucky guy then.
Set screws in a sheet metal bed, that seems very secure.

The set screws are on the ball, not on the bed.

While I do worry about it having the potential of rotating, I'm probably more concerned about the long term effects of the base working on the bed of the truck, and that load not spread out good enough.

In PullRites version, they have brackets that go under the truck to shore up that area.

I currently have an old old version of the SuperGlide (might even be gen 1), and the way that they attached that to the truck was really nice. The hitch doesn't touch the bed at all. While the new puck systems don't do that, they are still the same concept, where all if the load is transmitted thru the pucks/pins and not the bed. I like that system...

[jsb5717]

Rotation isn't an issue. All of they pressure on the ball is either straight down or back. There's lateral tension while turning or backing but no real leverage to cause it to rotate. Also, as has been said, if the installation is done properly then the correct torque has been achieved. There should be no movement with either the Andersen or the Pullrite if installed correctly.

Also, doesn't the spread of the base spread the weight over the frame of the truck? Again, if properly torqued, there shouldn't be any movement to "work" the bed.

In all of my research I haven't seen either one of the scenarios reported. If someone has experienced these then the hitch wasn't installed correctly.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

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Also, doesn't the spread of the base spread the weight over the frame of the truck? Again, if properly torqued, there shouldn't be any movement to "work" the bed.

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I would think that the only way that would be possible would do if the HIGH rib on the truck bed had direct contact with the frame rail. I have not looked at my new truck, but on most trucks, there is an upside down had section that is welded to the lower ribs, and then that hat section is bolted to the frame. So, even the lower ribs are not touching the frame in reality.

With that being said, there ha6d to be some force transmitted to the bed with these setups. It is different than a conventional gooseneck because all of that force is thru the ball. Now, that ball, the pull point, is 18" (whatever it is) above the bed. The set screws will help with that transfer of force to the ball, but there is no way that they could handle that force without the frame touching the bed.

I'm guessing under "normal" towing and breaking situations, that force isn't all that great. But under extreme breaking, or hard uphill pulls, that force could become a lot higher, even if everyone is properly torqued.

Admittedly, there are a lot of Andersen users out there that have no issues. As a recovering engineer, I just have this innate ability to overanalyze everything!!!

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by CADman_KS

Yes, that would work, if I could find the Andersen offset dimension on their website. I can't find that anywhere on their website....

I got my truck back, and I eyeballed that measurement today. From the back of the cab to the centerline of the ball is 44"ish. With the offset in the Andersen of 5", it would be back 49"ish. It actually eyeballs a little more than that.

I need to measure the 5er, but expect it to be in the 48"ish range. It SHOULD clear, but there won't be much room for sure.

I still like that ISR setup that powerhaulic has, but it looks like that will set the pull point forward of the 49". That ISR setup should make the hitch last forever, and go from truck to truck. Same would be true of just the Andersen ball attachment.

Decisions, decisions, decisions...

[jsb5717]

I would think the critical dimensions would be the alignment of the ball, or the centerline between the rails, in relation to the axle. Are those directly over or in front of the axle?

Edit: Sorry, I'm thinking overall towability vs tight turning. With your dimension you should achieve reasonably tight turning.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

I would think the critical dimensions would be the alignment of the ball, or the centerline between the rails, in relation to the axle. Are those directly over or in front of the axle?

Edit: Sorry, I'm thinking overall towability vs tight turning. With your dimension you should achieve reasonably tight turning.

On the new 2020 GM's, the OEM ball is actually 2" behind the axle to start with, and the bed is 3" overall in length longer. I don't know if that went to the front of the box, or back of the box...

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

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Edit: Sorry, I'm thinking overall towability vs tight turning. With your dimension you should achieve reasonably tight turning.

I have just gotten spoiled having an automatic slider. I just simply do NOT worry about of this, PERIOD, because the auto sliders work so well...

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by CADman_KS

Thanks for this information!!!

I should be able to figure it out from there. One other thing that I saw on the Andersen website is that you have to keep the Trailair RotaFkex from moving,and they have a kit that does that.

Just read the PullRite install manual, and you need something on the RotaFlex hitches when using the PullRite Superlite hitch as well....

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by CADman_KS

Just read the PullRite install manual, and you need something on the RotaFlex hitches when using the PullRite Superlite hitch as well....

If you are thinking ISR system, unless something has changed there is three different adapters out there Pullrite, Demco ,and Reese that fit the OEM puck systems.

Personally too many reports of bed deflection with the Aluminum Andersen , you can shim the bed or go with a rubber mat that prevents it, but it lays flat on the metal, and the fore ,and aft movement of the Andersen has damaged some of these newer trucks with the lighter metal in the beds .

If you go ISR, then the steel version of the Andersen is a great hitch. towed many miles with it ,and a short bed Ram 3500. Shortest of the short bed trucks without any concerns with clearance. You can actually have 4 different combinations on how you set it up, which direction on the adapter ,and which direction you mount the hitch . Plus a four point attachment to the bed , and four point attachment to the hitch.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

If you are thinking ISR system, unless something has changed there is three different adapters out there Pullrite, Demco ,and Reese that fit the OEM puck systems.

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I have not looked into the Reese solution for 2020 GMs, but Demco has one, and I contacted PullRite and they are working on releasing theirs in late January. That part number for them will be 4452 when it's available...

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by CADman_KS

I have not looked into the Reese solution for 2020 GMs, but Demco has one, and I contacted PullRite and they are working on releasing theirs in late January. That part number for them will be 4452 when it's available...

Not sure now, I know Reese has one for the Ford ,and Ram. Just looked ,and saw the Pullrite coming for the GM. Just assumed all three had one for the GM trucks. I am sure Reese will have one ,but it doesn't appear they do for the GM as of yet.

I have the Reese adapter on the OEM puck system on my Ram, my truck is a 2014 ,so that adapter has a few miles on it. I like the setup, but back in 2014 the choices were limited for the puck systems on the Ram truck. Pretty sure GM did not offer the OEM puck system in 2014, not even sure Ford did either.

[PSFORD99]

The adapter ,and Andersen rail version is a good setup . There are a few other choices that fit directly to the puck system without the adapter. I am just not a fan of that one point gooseneck ball attached Andersen, many use them, have a good friend tows a Montana fifth wheel with one in his Ram truck, and so far he likes it.

Also had a friend that towed with a Superglide, and just did not like it at all, had to have the truck, and trailer at a fairly straight angle to get hitched or unhitched, finally went to the same Andersen I have , and so far has liked it . His truck is a Ford 350 short bed ,no clearance issues .

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

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Also had a friend that towed with a Superglide, and just did not like it at all, had to have the truck, and trailer at a fairly straight angle to get hitched or unhitched, finally went to the same Andersen I have , and so far has liked it . His truck is a Ford 350 short bed ,no clearance issues .

I have a SuperGlide right now, and while it does have its quirks, I've learned how to live with all of them. The hooking at an angle has never been issue for me, but if you have to hook at an angle it doesn't work. If it the gate won't open, usually putting the truck in reverse does the trick.

We had a LOT of hooking / unhooking issues with our old 5er, flat, straight, crooked, angled, tilted, greased, ungreased, didn't matter. I finally figured out that our kingpin was bent! I put a new kingpin in, and all of the issues went away. I lived with that for about 18 years before I figured it out!!!

BUT, I was able to overlook the coupling issues for the 100% insurance that the sliding hitch afforded. I just simply do not worry about hitting the cab of the truck. I just drive, forward or reverse....

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by CADman_KS

I have a SuperGlide right now, and while it does have its quirks, I've learned how to live with all of them. The hooking at an angle has never been issue for me, but if you have to hook at an angle it doesn't work. If it the gate won't open, usually putting the truck in reverse does the trick.

We had a LOT of hooking / unhooking issues with our old 5er, flat, straight, crooked, angled, tilted, greased, ungreased, didn't matter. I finally figured out that our kingpin was bent! I put a new kingpin in, and all of the issues went away. I lived with that for about 18 years before I figured it out!!!

BUT, I was able to overlook the coupling issues for the 100% insurance that the sliding hitch afforded. I just simply do not worry about hitting the cab of the truck. I just drive, forward or reverse....

Sounds like you should stick to the Superglide that attaches directly to your puck system . Why would you want anything different ?? No adapters, just the hitch .

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Sounds like you should stick to the Superglide that attaches directly to your puck system . Why would you want anything different ?? No adapters, just the hitch .

That's a great and fair question!!, and one that I've pondered, and this is the conclusion that Iv'e come to:

I HAVE a SuperGlide now that I can NOT use/convert to OEM or ISR. If I get an ISR hitch, and 5 years from now we get a Ford, then all I need to get is the ISR to OEM adapter plate, but I can reuse the ISR SuperGlide...

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Sounds like you should stick to the Superglide that attaches directly to your puck system . Why would you want anything different ?? No adapters, just the hitch .

Your post just made me think of something that I don't know the answer to that I need to investigate.

Is it possible to just get new adapter "plates" for the SuperGlide, or all of the base widths different, and you have to change out the whole hitch???

I should look into that...

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by CADman_KS

Your post just made me think of something that I don't know the answer to that I need to investigate.

Is it possible to just get new adapter "plates" for the SuperGlide, or all of the base widths different, and you have to change out the whole hitch???

I should look into that...

I think if you stick to the ISR Superglide then you adapt to whatever truck with the adapter like Demco or Pullrite .

I do know the trucks are all different as far as the dimensions on the puck systems . Those adapters are truck specific , so I would assume those new Superglides that fit directly to the truck are also going to be truck specific. Best bet is the ISR Superglide, if you want to stay with the same hitch.

Big reason I went the adapter is at the time I had an 18K Reese slider , and wanted to stay with that, which I also still have ,and use along with the Andersen for certain trips where I need to remove it for transporting my inflatable pontoon boat for fishing.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

I think if you stick to the ISR Superglide then you adapt to whatever truck with the adapter like Demco or Pullrite .

I do know the trucks are all different as far as the dimensions on the puck systems . Those adapters are truck specific , so I would assume those new Superglides that fit directly to the truck are also going to be truck specific. Best bet is the ISR Superglide, if you want to stay with the same hitch.

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Yeah, this is my thinking as well. I'll call PullRite and talk to someone there just to make sure. They are super helpful on the phone...

[powerhaulic]

The reason I chose the Demco ISR adapter is height. The PullRite will use 2x2" tubing mounted on posts, same as their SuperRail system.
puts the hitch too high in the bed for proper trailer leveling.
Demco adapter is about an inch lower or more.
I have a ISR SuperGlide I would like to sell......about 2500mi on it.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by powerhaulic

The reason I chose the Demco ISR adapter is height. The PullRite will use 2x2" tubing mounted on posts, same as their SuperRail system.
puts the hitch too high in the bed for proper trailer leveling.
Demco adapter is about an inch lower or more.
I have a ISR SuperGlide I would like to sell......about 2500mi on it.

I wondered about that.

I like the design of that Demco ISR plate...

I'll PM you...