Something new with water pump

[Sdexte]

So I refilled my fresh water tank and now there is about a 5 second delay in the water pump kicking on when I turn on the faucet and the pump runs for about another 5 to 8 seconds after the water stops. The pump had not done that before and I filled the tank in the same fashion as always. Has anyone else experienced this?

[CruzinMooses]

That is perfectly normal. The water pump had a build in pressure switch. When you open your faucet the pressure starts to drop, when the pressure gets low enough the pump turns on. When you shut off the faucet it takes a few seconds for the pressure to build to the shut off threshold.

[rohrmann]

Unless there is an accumulator tank, there is no reserve pressure in the water system, so, without city water connected, the pump should instantly turn on when a faucet is opened.

[Sdexte]

Originally Posted by rohrmann

Unless there is an accumulator tank, there is no reserve pressure in the water system, so, without city water connected, the pump should instantly turn on when a faucet is opened.

Yeah that’s what it used to do, now there’s a slight delay. Just something new I noticed.

[psomers]

I rarely ever use my pump but as I remember mine operated exactly as CruzinMooses stated and I don't have an accumulator. Maybe not 5 seconds but for sure a delay for pump to come on. The residual volume of lines is a little buffer.

[Tom N OH]

Perfectly normal. Especially when you have the proper air gap in the water heater. Nothing to be concerned about.

[Ram Montana High Country]

Originally Posted by psomers

I rarely ever use my pump but as I remember mine operated exactly as CruzinMooses stated and I don't have an accumulator. Maybe not 5 seconds but for sure a delay for pump to come on. The residual volume of lines is a little buffer.

Is water available when the faucet is turned on? My just be a slight change in the pressure monitor. IMHO - keep track and see if it changes. Maybe develop a plan if pump quits. Truly inconvenient when that happens.

[DutchmenSport]

What you described is perfectly normal. The amount of delay between the time you initially turn on the faucet and the start up of the pump is because there is pressure in the water lines. If that length of time changes, it's probably because of air in the water lines (system) somewhere. Where? The most logical air pocket would be in your water heater. Although it's not much, but the top of the water heater does trap air and this small amount of air works like an accumulator tank.

Sometimes you can get air in the lines, and the more air, the more it works like an accumulator tank. If you turn your pump off, and your water tank is empty and then you travel, and then you fill your tank at your destination, and then turn the pump on, it will have some air in the lines, which is one way you can get air in the system.

[psomers]

Exactly correct. The water heater should have an air pocket. Over time with out draining water heater the air pocket slowly disappears. The tank is said to be water logged. There is a procedure in manual how to recreate the air pocket.

[Slow Hand]

I wish they made a pump that was a little quieter. Mine is so loud that it will wake you up if someone washes there hands at night.

[R.S.O'Donnell]

Originally Posted by Slow Hand

I wish they made a pump that was a little quieter. Mine is so loud that it will wake you up if someone washes there hands at night.

I've notice the same thing. Looked the other day and the pump is screwed directly to the floor.

The pump in our class C was under the bed and was much quieter. It had a flex line between the output and the PEX and was mounted on rubber isolator pad. Replicating this is on my to do list.

[Sdexte]

Originally Posted by psomers

Exactly correct. The water heater should have an air pocket. Over time with out draining water heater the air pocket slowly disappears. The tank is said to be water logged. There is a procedure in manual how to recreate the air pocket.

I find nothing in my manual about recreating the air pocket, I have the Suburban water heater. Can you describe the procedure or direct me to where I can find it? We have been living in our RV for over a year and have never drained the water heater so it is entirely possible that we have lost that air pocket.

[mlh]

Originally Posted by Sdexte

I find nothing in my manual about recreating the air pocket, I have the Suburban water heater. Can you describe the procedure or direct me to where I can find it? We have been living in our RV for over a year and have never drained the water heater so it is entirely possible that we have lost that air pocket.

I’ve never seen a hot water tank with air in it.
Lynwood

[Carl n Susan]

From the Suburban Water Heater Manual Page #6 http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf

WATER WEEPING OR DRIPPING FROM PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:

I. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P 8 T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P 8 T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will develop.

[rohrmann]

The reason the pressure builds up and causes the weeping is because there is a check valve built into the city water inlet connection, and when the water heater is operating, the water expands and has no place to go, so it weeps from that T&P valve. In your S&B house, the water just backs up into the line coming from the city or the water pump pressure tank and if you’re on a well. An expansion tank in the trailer’s plumbing would also provide a place for expansion to happen to prevent the weeping.

[psomers]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

From the Suburban Water Heater Manual Page #6 http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf

WATER WEEPING OR DRIPPING FROM PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:

I. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P 8 T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P 8 T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will develop.

Thank you Carl. Saved me having to find it.

[Sdexte]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

From the Suburban Water Heater Manual Page #6 http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ser-Manual.pdf

WATER WEEPING OR DRIPPING FROM PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:

I. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P 8 T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P 8 T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will develop.

Would turning on the Hot water heater bypass in the convenience center do the same thing as turning off the cold water supply line?

[Buckfisher]

I fixed my noisy water pump for a couple bucks. It wasn't the water pump, it was plumbing routed close together. The pulsing of the pump was knocking the pipes together and against anything close to them. I used pipe insulation at every place a pipe was close to anything. The closer to the pump, the louder the knocking was. Like magic, the pump became a quiet hum and doesn't wake anyone up while sleeping any more. I also found a waterline that was bent to the point of almost shutting off the water flow. Another RV I had many years ago didn't have the pump secured and it was knocking against the frame and floor.

[Texan]

I did the same as you and also changed to a Shur-Flow pump and now i can't hear the pump unless i am listening for it. I would say i've eliminated 90% of the noise.

[oeeman]

Originally Posted by rohrmann

Unless there is an accumulator tank, there is no reserve pressure in the water system, so, without city water connected, the pump should instantly turn on when a faucet is opened.

I have noticed the same thing with my trailer, and recently the delay and run length got a little longer. The only thing I could put my finger on was the temperature. It was much hotter that usual. This would allow a little more stretch in the plastic pipe which could act as a small accumulator. If you take the total length of pipe and increase the diameter a little due to stretch it would act as an accumulator.