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Old 11-24-2010, 10:40 AM   #1
LAURA
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DODGE RAM Integrated brake control

We have a 2010 Dodge Ram that we pull a 2011 Montana 3150 and feel that the integrated brake control does not work as it should. The control is set on #10 or maximum power.
We had the same problem with our 2008 3075 Montana.
Does anyone have the same problem and if so how did you fix it ??
 
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Old 11-24-2010, 11:23 AM   #2
oldelmer1
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I have not pulled with my 3500 yet as I just got it a week ago and don't have a hitch in it yet. But, I have read where some folks have complained about the built in controller. They said you really have to brake hard to make it come on. If you just lightly push on the pedal, the controller barely puts the trailer brakes on.

What happens if you put the brakes on manually, as in, push the bar over gently without tosomeuching the pedal?

If this happens on 2 campers, you might want to take it back to the dealer and have them check it out.
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Old 11-24-2010, 11:26 AM   #3
pbahlin
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I have a 2010 with integrated controller that (for me at least) seems to work great.

Could I ask what you mean by it not working correctly? What are you experiencing that makes you think it's not working?
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Old 11-24-2010, 11:50 AM   #4
LAURA
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We have been back to the dealer and computer upgrade performed for trailer brake problem with no change in performance.
Regarding application of brake pedal it take a lot or pressure to stop the rig.
If we did not have the intergrated exhaust brake we would be in trouble.
Was asked about manual application at brake control, will not lock up on speed over 10 MPH
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:59 PM   #5
pbahlin
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I set my controller to 8.5 and I'm pulling about 15,500 lbs. With that setting I can stop the entire rig using the lever only on the controller at 20 mph in the same number of feet that I can stop the truck (empty) at that speed.

I know the manuals say to lock up your brakes at 20 mph or some such speed but I think that's just nuts. I want the rig to 'feel' like it feels when I'm not towing and 8.5 does that for me.

If you can't get comfortable with a setting of 10 perhaps you should do some checks on the trailer brakes. You can pretty easily see if each brake is activating by just holding a compass near the drum while somebody presses the brake pedal. The compass should jump around. Do this for each wheel and if the compass isn't moving you could have a wiring issue in the trailer or even a bad magnet.

I'd do that first to see if everything on the trailer is connected properly. Then if that checks out do some stopping tests, with the controller lever only, in a parking lot somewhere. At 20 mph and a setting of 8.5 my trailer brakes throw us forward in our seats when I apply the lever. Asking them to lock up is not reasonable in my opinion.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:01 PM   #6
exav8tr
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For what it's worth. We have a 2008 Chevy with the IBC. We switched over to Kodiak Disc Brakes with an electric over hydraulic system. The IBC would not match up with the new controller. MorRyde said it was a voltage problem. We had them install a Prodigy to fix the problem. When I squeeze the manual control it slows it down at any speed.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:05 PM   #7
mhs4771
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I don't know about Dodge, but in my experience if you have the standard electric brakes (not the disc) the Montys are too heavy to allow the brakes to lock-up, plus I'm not 100% sure I would want them to lock-up. I had a Prodigy (original and a 2) set on max output in my 2005 Chevy 3500 DRW and could not get the Monty brakes to lock-up, but it did stop. My new 2011 Chevy 3500 DRW has the factory brake controller and I still can't get the Monty brakes to lock-up, but with it set for max everything seems to work great. Stopping is not a problem and they don't grab when going slow like the Prodigy did. My $.05 worth (inflation)
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:09 PM   #8
ols1932
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I really have a problem with locking up the brakes. Why would anyone want to do that? With my brakes adjusted properly I don't have any problem stopping within a reasonable distance. And with Brake Guard installed, emergency stops are done in a much shorter distance than a normal stop.

Orv
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:18 PM   #9
CamillaMichael
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My IBC works great! Now if I could just get a couple more miles per gallon....
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:21 PM   #10
mobil
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Ours works fine at 8.5. With tow/haul and EB, only light braking is needed most of the time.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:47 PM   #11
LAURA
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The brakes work well for overall driving,but just takes a lot of foot pressure to stop and has a time lag.
I drive defensive and allow room for emergency stops, but always have one that has no brake lights or does not use the turn signals
This is redneck country and deer have the right of way in Missouri
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:51 PM   #12
pbahlin
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Unfortunately the Dodge owner's manual says to set up the controller by finding the value that locks up the wheels at 20 mph. Personally I think this is misguided and probably intended for somebody pulling a few thousand pounds.

I've never gone by their recommendation, preferring to drive and 'play' with the gain until it just feels right. I don't want my fifteen hundred dollars worth of trailer tires smokin' under any conditions!
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Old 11-24-2010, 02:28 PM   #13
klash
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We have a 2007 Montana, 2955RL, that is 12,000 lbs road ready.

We bought a 2011 GMC 3500HD crew cab, short box, single rear wheels.

The Monty has approximately 15,000 miles on it, and just had brakes and bearings
serviced in October, 2010.

The new truck has the integrated brake controller, and we tow with it set at 4.0. It will stop us in a hurry. Tried 3.5 and that wasn't quite enough, even tried 4.5 and it was way too positive.
I am thinking the Dodge owner must have some gremlins in his controller.
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Old 11-25-2010, 04:30 AM   #14
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Set mine on 5.5 at first but moved it up to 6.0. After 5,000 miles of towing since Feb, it seems just fine. Trailer weighs 11,200 and I don't expect a lock up from it under any circumstances. Way too heavy for that. The jake brake and the tow haul mode do a lot of the braking for the truck. Some people say you need two settings, one for interstate travel, and another for city street stop and gos. Makes some sense, but I haven't figured out what they should be. You either have a real issue or are expecting too much from the system. Either way, hope you get it worked out because poor brakes are bad. With my previous trailer, SOB, when I did the first manual brake adjustment on the shoe mechanism, I only had 1 of 4 brake shoes making contact with the drums when the brakes were activated. Adjusting that made a big difference.
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:54 PM   #15
thor
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if you took your truck and trailer where it is safe to try this test.drive to the speed of 20 mph and apply the brakes hard .at the same time check the reading of the output of the controller .that reading is the current going to the trailer brakes. if that reading is low then their is a current problem, but if that reading is high then you could have a brake adjustment or brake wear problem.just a thought.
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:32 PM   #16
lasater
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I have my Gain set at 10. I still have to apply a fairly large amount of pedal pressure during a hard stop. I have noticed that if I start braking early and gently, that there is a slight delay between the initial braking from the Dodge and the additional braking from the Monty. I don't know if this delay is due to a mechanical effort (pendulum swing) or electrical effort (electric brake solenoid).

I have had several occasions where a light changed suddenly and I had to stop quickly. I had not trouble stopping the rig from 55 MPH. The IBC does not work the same as a Prodigy. But it does work. Go out on a dirt area and go through the procedures from Page 451 in the owners manual.

Good luck.
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