OK, I know from personal experience that the trailer has to be very level to start and run the fridge on propane.
Our house is on a hill...not super steep, but enough that the trailer parked in front is at too much of an angle for the fridge on propane. Tried it before vacation last year and finally realized the angle was the problem with it not working.
Right now I have our Monty in front of the house, but this time I have it plugged into power (just a normal 20 amp plug in the garage).
My question is...will the fridge start and run if you are using it on electric rather than on propane?
In other words, does that eliminate the reason it won't work on propane when on a slope, or does the same problem still exist?
Sure would be nice to be able to pre cool the fridge without have to figure out how to safely level the trailer. Yes, I leave it hooked up to the truck, not comfortable taking it off without figuring out a safe way to level it out and secure it.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
__________________ 2011 Montana 3580RL with a Reese 20k GooseBox w/offset B&W ball, Sailuns, RoadMaster shocks, Splendide stacked washer/dryer, some other stuff... 2015 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Megacab, Aisin w/3.73s, 255/80 17 Toyos A/T III, rear auto level, 40 gal. fuel/tool combo box, some Banks mods...
OK, I know from personal experience that the trailer has to be very level to start and run the fridge on propane.
Our house is on a hill...not super steep, but enough that the trailer parked in front is at too much of an angle for the fridge on propane. Tried it before vacation last year and finally realized the angle was the problem with it not working.
Right now I have our Monty in front of the house, but this time I have it plugged into power (just a normal 20 amp plug in the garage).
My question is...will the fridge start and run if you are using it on electric rather than on propane?
In other words, does that eliminate the reason it won't work on propane when on a slope, or does the same problem still exist?
Sure would be nice to be able to pre cool the fridge without have to figure out how to safely level the trailer. Yes, I leave it hooked up to the truck, not comfortable taking it off without figuring out a safe way to level it out and secure it.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
My (limited) understanding is that our non-compressor type refrigerators use a chemical reaction, requiring heat, to extract heat from the interior of the fridge, creating cold. Go figure ! Anyway, apparently the "boiler" has to be very close to vertical to avoid pooling of chemicals in the tubing, eventually creating a leak and fridge failure. The heat source can be either propane or a heating element, but the boiler still has to be vertical. So, my suggestion is to keep the rig as level as possible when the refrigerator is "on".
We create a few blocks of ice using empty milk jugs and plastic trays, and pre-cool the fridge and freezer areas, and stow the food from our S & B fridge and freezer then take off. Everything stays cold/frozen in the rig's fridge until we stop and turn it on, using propane because it is the more efficient heating method. Once we get settled and everything is truly cool/frozen, we will switch the fridge to the electric mode if the outside temperatures are not too high.
As stated, I don't think the fuel/power source matters. If the incline is too great for the compressor to run on propane, it is still too great on electric as well.
One thing no one has mentioned is that running the frig unlevel greatly increases the chance that a failure will result in a fire. Google frig fires and you'll see it's an across the board problem and was the reason for a lawsuit that resulted in many of us getting payments for having an older rig. Ours was a 2010 and while it didn't catch fire we still got a settlement from Norcold.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
Attached pictures show how the absorption fridge works. It needs to be pretty close to level side to side. I've read somewhere < 3° is acceptable. You want to double check that.
You can read the degrees of level in your level up menu on your level up control panel.
We are taking a long trip where I have to make about 400 miles per day for 3 days. I was hoping to just leave the truck hooked up if the site was fairly level. However, I am a little concerned with a Sanyo Residential refer having to run all night. It runs while we are pulling it down the road so why not while parked? Does anyone have experience with running their fridge while leaving the trailer hooked up? Would it matter that we only do it for a few days?
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Ray, Cindy and Goldie the Lab
2018 Montana 3791RD
2017 RAM HD3500, DRW, Cummins Diesel
Jacksonville, FL
Thanks for the info...it does confirm what I was thinking regarding the power source (electric or propane) being irrelevant as it pertains to being on an incline.
Kinda inconvenient, but we will figure out a "solution". Appreciate the feedback as always!
__________________ 2011 Montana 3580RL with a Reese 20k GooseBox w/offset B&W ball, Sailuns, RoadMaster shocks, Splendide stacked washer/dryer, some other stuff... 2015 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Megacab, Aisin w/3.73s, 255/80 17 Toyos A/T III, rear auto level, 40 gal. fuel/tool combo box, some Banks mods...
We are taking a long trip where I have to make about 400 miles per day for 3 days. I was hoping to just leave the truck hooked up if the site was fairly level. However, I am a little concerned with a Sanyo Residential refer having to run all night. It runs while we are pulling it down the road so why not while parked? Does anyone have experience with running their fridge while leaving the trailer hooked up? Would it matter that we only do it for a few days?
Since you have a residential frig your situation is different. Level doesn't mean as much to it, but you're going to need a generator or a big battery bank probably.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
We are taking a long trip where I have to make about 400 miles per day for 3 days. I was hoping to just leave the truck hooked up if the site was fairly level. However, I am a little concerned with a Sanyo Residential refer having to run all night. It runs while we are pulling it down the road so why not while parked? Does anyone have experience with running their fridge while leaving the trailer hooked up? Would it matter that we only do it for a few days?
We found that we could pull over and do what we needed to do in the frig then before bed turn off the inverter and it would hold the temp well until we got up in the morning. After I changed the batteries to Battle Born's we don't turn off the inverter.
__________________ I was once intelligent beyond my years.Now, I’m years beyond my intelligence. 2020 Montana 3561 Legacy, everything except paint. 2018 Silverado 3500 DRW, 50Gal Transfer Flow, Andersen hitch.
As stated, I don't think the fuel/power source matters. If the incline is too great for the compressor to run on propane, it is still too great on electric as well.
An absorption fridge has no compressor. Runs strictly off heat and chemical reaction to cool. Mine sucked. Changed out cooling unit to a 12V compressor unit. Now its more like a residential fridge. Does not require unit to be level to run and no more driving down the road with propane on. Far more efficient and -10 below in freezer and constant 35/36 in fridge. Cold beer!
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