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Old 10-26-2018, 01:20 PM   #21
phillyg
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I'd be inclined to leave it alone unless it starts to leak. As a couple other folks suggested, removing the six bolts, and without disconnecting the hydraulic lines, take a look at the mount to see if it can be re-bent to normal. A body shop might be able to do that part.
 
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Old 10-26-2018, 09:04 PM   #22
rohrmann
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Those mounting brackets welded to the frame are pretty heavy chunks of steel. It would be better to get a welder involved if it is necessary to straighten it.
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:22 PM   #23
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Agree - it appears that the unit is tilted inward so the jack is trying to move the coach out to the door side. Depending on how high (low) it has to go to level the coach, it might put a lot of stress on the frame in the wrong direction.
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:58 PM   #24
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I agree since it was retracted when you hit it and it seems to not be leaking I would hold off on replacing it. My concern would be that it has angeled inward. These levelers seem to be pushing slightly outward, so I would do what I had to to realign that issue.

I bent a shoe plate on mine which confirmed my suspicion that they were too low. After reading threads here I was encouraged to do a modification. I raised the rear jacks up two holes and the center one hole. The front ones seemed ok so I left them. I got the Anderson blocks so they wouldn't be extending too far. Used this set up for the first time today as we begin our annual trek South. Leveled up just fine even though the site was a bit more out of level then normal. Rig is rock solid and I am now happy with the mod.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:15 AM   #25
Carried Away
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My husband hit a pot hole with the left dually wheels..it was filled with water and of course, dropped the left front side of the rig down enough to bend the jack. We managed to pull it somewhat straighter using a come-along and another truck....it still works. We are getting it fixed at a welding and fabrication shop this Saturday since it is still a frame issue.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:30 AM   #26
Det107
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Just asking how are the shoe plates attached? I never looked..
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Old 11-01-2018, 09:26 AM   #27
Dave W
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I've stayed subscribed to this thread since any new, and last 5er will have self leveling


With that said, are you folks that have bent these levelers checking for 'incidental' frame damage? That's quite a shock to these LCI frames and since there have been other frame problems reported, has it been a factor?


Just thinkin' !!
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:44 AM   #28
Mikendebbie
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replacement leveler shoes

The pic below shows what comes with a replacement shoe from Lippert. I assume it bolts on from below (see rohrmann's post #4 in this thread).

Rohrmann - you said you "used a box end wrench and a hammer to tighten it, and did not put pliers on the ram"...pliers on the ram to hold backup? So the ram is steady enough to tighten the bolts direct without backup?
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Old 11-01-2018, 01:14 PM   #29
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I just used a standard 15/16" combination wrench and an 8 oz ballpeen hammer and just hit the end of the wrench so it's tightening several times on each bolt and none have come loose since. There is enough friction on the ram with the seals that I got the bolts tight enough doing this. I suppose you could use a plumbing type strap wrench on the ram too, but I didn't have one with me at the time.
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:44 PM   #30
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Bent leveling Jack

I Bent one about 8 months ago. you can use a chain to bolt into both the holes below the bend, use a comealong and gently apply pressure from opposite side and will pull back straight. pull slowly and gently. Mine was bent outward about 30 degrees and has worked perfectly since. A diesel mechanic showed me how. Northern Tool has a short chain system that bolts into the holes and gives a single hook to attach a comealong to. Saved me lot of money but also down time. Took about 30 min to do the repair. Good luck
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Old 11-02-2018, 11:53 AM   #31
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Okay long story short. DW with small bladder threatening new truck smell= bad decision by DH.

$2284.xx and and Ram replaced with new bracket welded on. Frame checked.
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:05 AM   #32
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Dealers estimate

I was at a dealer yesterday to get my furnace recall taken care of and I asked them to give me a 2 minute consultation and estimate on the bracket fix. Their body shop guy said 4 to six hours to weld a new bracket on...$600 to $800 range. He als suggested I might try removing the Jack and see what I can accomplish with a sledge hammer (as suggested here!). My rate is much cheaper than the dealer rate so I think I will give it a shot.
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:13 AM   #33
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Mine is covered by insurance. will have it installed on the next set of holes up.
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Old 11-03-2018, 06:14 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffba View Post
Mine is covered by insurance. will have it installed on the next set of holes up.
Glad you have it taken care of! Another forum friend of mine hooked his rear one on a railroad crossing and totaled his brand new Montana. He bought another one exactly like it.
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Old 09-06-2022, 07:46 PM   #35
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Mounting Bracket - Lipper Part #?

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Originally Posted by MidMOTraveler View Post
I think the jack bracket is bent towards center of frame. That would be opposite of the direction of the other jacks. While the others are lifting and moving toward center the bent one will be going opposite.
Possibly racking the frame?
Did you figure out what the Lippert Part Number is for the mount bracket? I bent mine and trying to find a replacement part.
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Old 09-07-2022, 04:39 AM   #36
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I was able to beat my bracket back CLOSE to plumb and square using my BFH with a short handle. I removed the jack and held it out of the way with bungee cords while I unleashed my worst fury on the bracket. I reinstalled the jack + raised all of my rear jacks by 1 or two bolt holes (?? can't remember). I beat on that thing for an hour or so. The jack still works - no leaks.

I found this on the Lippert website if you are a welder…
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