Awning supports up or down???.....

[Glenn and Lorraine]

Most always I disconnect one or sometimes both of the legs and set them on the ground. Setting them on the ground totally eliminates the head knocker and really does open up the patio space. But be sure you have the awning strapped down otherwise the lightest breeze can lift the legs off the ground and create some serious problems.
I place one of the black heavy rubber bungee cords around the awning barrel on both ends. To the 2 hooks of the bungee I attach the ratchet type nylon straps which are than attached to heavy duty straight or screw type stakes in the ground. Ratchet the straps snug allowing the bungees to act as shock absorbers and you should not have any problems.
I also set the legs on a couple pieces of plywood rather than directly on the ground. I have also drilled 2 holes thru the plywood to match the holes in the foot of the leg. Thru these hole I place 2 of the small round metal tent stakes. This keeps the leg from being moved side to side while the strap holds the awning down.

BTW-I responded to this same subject on another forum and thought I would share it here.

[patodonn]

Just a thought...you might consider reversing the location of the nylon strap and the rubber bungee cords. Much better distribution of load on that relatively fragile "tube" (awning barrel) if the nylon strap is looped around it instead of the relatively thin rubber "band" of the bungee strap. You can easily hook the bungee into the screw-in stakes. Might keep some awning barrel damage from happening in a "heavy" wind.

Best,

[faeb and genb]

Glenn a few years ago I was letting both legs down & a factory Rep saw irt & told me it would weaken the awning 50 percent. Since I just put one down.
Gene

[Glenn and Lorraine]

quote:Originally posted by patodonn

Just a thought...you might consider reversing the location of the nylon strap and the rubber bungee cords. Much better distribution of load on that relatively fragile "tube" (awning barrel) if the nylon strap is looped around it instead of the relatively thin rubber "band" of the bungee strap. You can easily hook the bungee into the screw-in stakes. Might keep some awning barrel damage from happening in a "heavy" wind.
Best,

The only problem I encountered was the big "S" hook on the end of the nylon strap pressing directly against the tube. Gotta look into another way to attach the strap.

==============================================

quote:Originally posted by faeb and genb

Glenn a few years ago I was letting both legs down & a factory Rep saw irt & told me it would weaken the awning 50 percent. Since I just put one down.
Gene

I have in the past set both legs on the ground but normally I only set the leg where the foot traffic is concentrated which is usually the leg toward the front of the rig. Guess I will stop setting both legs.

[DHenry]

Glenn, thanks for the post, I have always been ducking the post. Most of the times I miss it, but every once in a while it gets me.

[Treecounter]

We put the rear leg down as the front leg is Short and above the overhang (and my head) We use straps with ratchets and HEAVY springs attached to heavy (1 1/2" angle iron) steaks pounded in as far as we can get them. Had an old timer tell me if you don't have springs a strong wind will tear the awning out by the roots. Treecounter

[Montana_1197]

When we put one or both legs out I notice that the tube rolls a little and that throws the little flap off. I assume that's normal and un-preventable but it looks weird. For tie-down I use a piece of nylon rope ties from both ends of the tube down to a tent stake. No special items- lo-tech solution.

[stiles watson]

Me too time. When I detach the legs from the coach, I use ground screws, nylon 1/4" guy-lines with "S" hooks to loop around and hook on the guy. The legs set on a piece of 2" X 12" X 12" treated pine with studs to fit the foot holes on the legs. One wing nut per leg secures.

All this goes to show that there are many ways to effectively skin a squirrel ('cause some folks like cats).

[Native Tex]

These are all great ideas. I too anchor mine to the ground with round metal tent pegs and then secure with a strap tied to achors in the ground. Once added tip is to use a deflapper on each side to help eliminate the flapping of the awning and thus adds some extra security. Thanks gang.

[sreigle]

If ours is out just for a few hours, we'll be in the vicinity while it's out, and it's not windy nor predicted to be windy, then I leave the supports on the Montana.

If we're leaving it out for an extended period I still leave the supports up and add spring-based tiedowns straight down from the ends of the roller. Seems to me having two connection points might be the strongest method?

[Chester]

Glenn, our dealer told us to not put any tie downs around the tube. The "axle" going into the awning frames can be easily bent and is expensive to replace. When I put tie downs on I use the ratchet type as well and hook the one "S" hook into a slot at the top of the awning leg. This leaves the awning tube untouched and makes a very solid tiedown. I generally also put one of those awning straps over the top of the awning in case any surprise wind comes up.

[Montana_2547]

[quote]Originally posted by Glenn and Lorraine


I place one of the black heavy rubber bungee cords around the awning barrel on both ends.

Glenn, I really like your idea of using the black rubber bungee cords. I have a method like everyone else. I don't disconnect the arms from the coach, but might start. I use the same screw anchor used for a pet cause I don't have confidence in anything driven straight into the ground. I actually found a source to buy just the screw without all the cable. I keep several of them in our coach cause you always see new RV'rs that just never thought about the parachute attached to their coach. So I've given a few away. Anyway, I use the ratcheting strap, one end over the tube and back around the strap, the other end attached to a heavy spring which is attached to the screw anchor. I might just replace the spring with the black rubber bungee. Seems to me the bungee (or spring) will minimize the danger of bending the tube expressed in another post.

[Montana_74]

I am interested in knowing more about the placement of the upper end of the strap. I am not sure which is more vulnerable, the barrel or the small shaft. Seems there are two schools of thought. Imagine that.

I use a nylon tie-down strap with the plastic buckle (like those used on life vests) around the top. I use a rachet strap to pull a slight pressure between the strap on the top and the spring and screw type stake at the bottom.

Right now I have mine around the barrel on one end and the shaft between the tube and arm, on the other, because of a tree in the way of the screw type stake, so I used rope and the tree.

thanks and travel safe

[sreigle]

I got the tiedowns from Camping World. The straps go over the barrel ends and attach to a spring which in turn is attached to the screw thing that screws into the ground. I pull them snug plus just a little. We've had no problems with the barrel getting bent.

On the other hand, I use three deflappers on each side. They attach to the awning material and strap around the awning arms. I pulled them so tight so many times it bent the arms. Now I just snug them. They seem to work just as well as when I had them tighter. So it appears to me the arms are more susceptible to bending than is the barrel. But I suppose going too tight or maybe getting a very strong updraft could bend the barrel. I bought the tiedowns after our awning ended up on the roof. Now **that** is hard on the awning.