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08-17-2005, 05:45 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Lisbon
Posts: 175
M.O.C. #1316
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Jacking 5th Wheel
I have done a search, but could not find anything about jacking up one side at a time to take off both wheels (for Dyna Bead balancing)and to check/gease spring shackles. I have a 3.5 ton floor jack not sure that it will lift the whole side, but need to know where to place the jack. And will cement building blocks hold the weight of the trailer while I'm working on it? I have a 3280RL Big Sky. Should I leave the 5er hooked to the truck when jacking or is the front landing gear best?
Thanks in advance Ron
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08-17-2005, 07:27 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 5,316
M.O.C. #15
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RonS,
I doubt that the 3.5 will lift the rig.... but it might just do it. If you look under my PictureTrail link and go to the Shackles album I think you can see how we jacked and supported the rig for work on the shackles. Good luck.
HamRad
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08-17-2005, 09:08 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fort Jones
Posts: 538
M.O.C. #3628
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First I run the front jacks out a couple of inches to make the front higher than level. I put the portable (floor or bottle) jack just behind the rear axle on the frame. The front jacks will hold the front end. You are not lifting the entire side of the trailer since some of the weight is on the front jacks. I only lift high enough to be able to rotate the wheels. Remember that the equalizer (between the axles) will let the heavier axle stay on the ground so you may have to use a second small jack to lift the heavy axle. Especially once the wheel is off one axle.
Cement building blocks are strong in one position and weak in other positions. If you place them just like building a wall with the holes up they are strongest. I have had them crush standing on end and on their side.
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08-17-2005, 09:23 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Flemington
Posts: 1,373
M.O.C. #242
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I would not use blocks. If You don't want to buy jack stands then go to a local rental yard and rent them. It will be cheaper in the long run and safer.
I think the best way to jack the trailer is to have it connected to the truck. This way with the brake set it shouldn't roll anywhere, and the pivot in the hitch will keep the jack that You are using to raise the side from twisting the frame as much.
Just remember to be safe.
John
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08-17-2005, 11:12 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marcus
Posts: 1,032
M.O.C. #2819
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I have used wooden 4x12's to support the frame when doing work before. I trust a solid stack of wood more than I do cement blocks. I also leave it hooked to the truck, for the same reason stated above. The front jacks are not made to be supporting that much weight and twisted.
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08-17-2005, 04:14 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location:
Posts: 101
M.O.C. #882
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Ron
I have done mechanic work most of my life and for ten years I was a brick mason,beleive me and others the last thing you want to do is use concrete blocks to support your unit!!!! I have had the experience of seeing someone crushed to death by using this type of block.The are totaly unsafe for this use.
I have used the following to change tires,lube the unit and I used it last week to have the tires balenced one at a time. You can take a series of 2x8's, first use a skill saw to cut one end of each to a 45 degree angle.When that is completed place the longest (about 4ft.)on the ground and then nail the next one to it (about 3.5 ft.)the nail the third to the second and the fourth to the third.You probably get the picture.Each board is shorter to make a ramp.
Once you finish place it behind or in front of wheel with the taperers faceing the tire.You can then safely back up or pull up onto the blocks and it will raise the other tire on that side off of the ground.This will allow you to remoe one wheel while the other is supporting the trailer.You still should use JACK stands for safety when one wheel is off.
Camping World sells on of thoses fancy units that does the same thing,but I also carry these blocks on the road fo when I need extra height in blocking the unit or changing a flat tire.
I hope this helps.
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08-18-2005, 05:21 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 5,316
M.O.C. #15
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I agree with Eagleone regarding the cement block or bricks. DON'T use them.
HamRad
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08-18-2005, 05:42 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Forestville
Posts: 6,025
M.O.C. #496
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RonS, I just had a problem with both tires on the same side of my Montana. I used a 3.5 ton floor jack to jack up one axel and a 6 ton bottle jack to jack up the other axel. Please take the advise of the others and DO NOT use the concrete blocks to support the wieght of the unit. Jack stands are the safest way to go. Good luck.
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08-18-2005, 08:10 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Full Timer
Posts: 918
M.O.C. #331
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I also believe that you are far better off keeping the rig hitched to the vehicle, assumming that your hitch can "tilt" left and right. I have always been concerned about collapsing a front support leg as you jack the opposite side.
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08-18-2005, 10:13 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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RONS,
To echo the others DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS. I bought a 6x6 treated lumber landscape timber and cut it into 8 to 12 in lengths. I use them for lift support under the front jacks as well as the back. To Jack my trailer I use a 6 ton bottle jack and the timbers. I picked six ton because that is the approximate weight on all the wheels therefore the jack is lifting only half it capability. Easier on the arm. As Patadonn said when lifting a whole side I leave the trailer connected to the truck to prevent damage to the front landing struts as well as eliminate fore and aft movement. My wheels are off the ground while it is stored.
Be safe and careful.
Good luck and tow safe.
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08-19-2005, 02:29 PM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Lisbon
Posts: 175
M.O.C. #1316
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Thanks to all. Tomorrow is the test. With the 5er hooked to my TV I will use two bottle jacks and timbers to lift one side and remove both tires. Hope I dont find any problums with the spring shackles, but will attempt to adjust the breaks and balance (w/Dyna Beads)the tires. I have already did the dyna bead thing with my 2500 Duramax, and can honestly say I dont know if they work or not. Drove about 150 miles today and it handles the same, still some minor shimmy, which has been their since new now 60K. Will also as long as I have 5th wheel tires off switch both tires, leaving them on the same side. It appears that I have a slight additional inside wear on both rear tires, I am not overloaded. Front tires on both sides look OK, so will then move them to the rear. I have about 20K on my 2 year old 5er.
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08-19-2005, 04:07 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: none
Posts: 1,566
M.O.C. #1043
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Work safe and Don't sit with your legs under the unit.
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