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Old 08-16-2019, 02:35 PM   #1
Lucky23
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M.O.C. #18031
A few questions for all you guru's about inverter install

Hi here's all my questions:

I have a Xantrex 2000w xc inverter/charger
4 6v Vmax agm 235a ea
I'll use 4/0 welding cable
Blue sea battery disconnect
+ & - bussbars.
Also using a subpanel.
I already have the 5500w genset dealer installed


What size catastrophic fuse on positive side?
I was going to use Victron bms with 500a shunt?

Thanks I'll be adding 400w of solar with a 40a mppt controller when we get back from Yellowstone in 1st of October.
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Old 08-16-2019, 03:30 PM   #2
PNW Fireguy
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I believe that your wire is oversized for your inverter but that is not a problem. I would not change that because it will lesson any voltage drop effect. The catastrophic fuse is sized to protect the wire. A class T 400A fuse would be correct for 4/0 wire however you could reduce that size down to 250A and be fine because you will probably never get 400 amps out of your pack. Whatever you decide buy more than one.
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Old 08-16-2019, 05:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Fireguy View Post
I believe that your wire is oversized for your inverter but that is not a problem. I would not change that because it will lesson any voltage drop effect. The catastrophic fuse is sized to protect the wire. A class T 400A fuse would be correct for 4/0 wire however you could reduce that size down to 250A and be fine because you will probably never get 400 amps out of your pack. Whatever you decide buy more than one.
Thanks Fireguy,
So it would be ok to use 2/0 and drop the fuse down to 250A.
Also can I still go with the Victron battery moniter system w/ 500A shunt?
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:48 PM   #4
rames14
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I believe mine was installed with a 250 amp blade style fuse.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky23 View Post
Thanks Fireguy,
So it would be ok to use 2/0 and drop the fuse down to 250A.
Also can I still go with the Victron battery moniter system w/ 500A shunt?



You absolutely could. If you already have the 4/0 wire I would keep it and just fuse it to 250A. No problem with the Victron battery monitor or the 50mv/500A shunt.


OBTW dont forget to provide overcurrent protection for your solar charger as well as your solar panels. The means to disconnect the entire PV array is also a good thing so that you can work on the system in the future with the array disconnected at the flip of a switch.
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:23 PM   #6
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M.O.C. #18031
Thanks Fireguy your my neighbor to the north.
I haven't bought the wire yet only inverter & batteries
1 more question I'm putting a marine battery disconnect switch in do I wire it before catastrophic fuse or after also putting in ÷ & - busbars. I'll shoot some pictures when I start.
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rames14 View Post
I believe mine was installed with a 250 amp blade style fuse.
Thanks for the info
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Old 08-17-2019, 06:05 AM   #8
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Hi,

I run the same Xantrex Inverter/Charger and have a 400amp T-fuse.
A 250amp is traveling with us as backup.
The BlueSea devices looked and worked the best for me.

The Fuse shall be as close as possible to your batteries.
Only the + line needs to be fused.

My learning curve during install was how important it is to make you own cables.

Here are a few good links to wiring diagrams which helped my 1 cell brain a lot.
You see that there a different methods wiring from the catastrophic fuse possible.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat.../99-TRLSLV.pdf

https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/upl...system__2_.pdf

Blog:
https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/tom...rstream-argosy


Mike
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky23 View Post
Thanks Fireguy your my neighbor to the north.
I haven't bought the wire yet only inverter & batteries
1 more question I'm putting a marine battery disconnect switch in do I wire it before catastrophic fuse or after also putting in ÷ & - busbars. I'll shoot some pictures when I start.



From the positive post of the battery pack connect to your catastrophic fuse then onto your positive bus bar. From your negative post of your battery pack run to your shunt and then to your negative bus bar. Keep these runs as short as possible and be sure not to use high resistant connections. Take your time and try to trim, crimp and insulate all connections correctly. Also keep your inverter connections to your bus bars as short as possible. I shot for three feet total with my layout but wound up with 3.5'.
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:47 AM   #10
Irv
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Follow up questions on electric thread

Looks like a great wiring set up in the picture, suny07! Not electrically knowledgeable, 1) does the 'battery disconnect' in the utility panel protect the RV interior from the battery when 'battery disconnect' is 'on', that is, can remove the key? 2) Does one need all that gear to add solar or a generator? Or is it an upgrade from the OEM set up?
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suny07 View Post
Hi,

I run the same Xantrex Inverter/Charger and have a 400amp T-fuse.
A 250amp is traveling with us as backup.
The BlueSea devices looked and worked the best for me.

The Fuse shall be as close as possible to your batteries.
Only the + line needs to be fused.

My learning curve during install was how important it is to make you own cables.

Here are a few good links to wiring diagrams which helped my 1 cell brain a lot.
You see that there a different methods wiring from the catastrophic fuse possible.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat.../99-TRLSLV.pdf

https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/upl...system__2_.pdf

Blog:
https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/tom...rstream-argosy


Mike
Nice clean install Mike!
Just wondering are you still using the factory installed automatic transfer switch, or does the Xantrex inverter/charger have one built in?
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLM View Post
Nice clean install Mike!
Just wondering are you still using the factory installed automatic transfer switch, or does the Xantrex inverter/charger have one built in?
Mike my Xantrex manual says 250A max and min 2/0 wire.
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky23 View Post
Mike my Xantrex manual says 250A max and min 2/0 wire.
That would be correct. The fuse is sized from the wire size per table 310-16 of the national electric code. It is not based upon the battery size or capacity. The fuse size is meant to protect the 2/0 wire’s ampacity.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:49 PM   #14
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I'll be buying my 2/0 cable tomorrow let me know what you think of length and connections. My inverter is directly behind the board in6the basement.

Positive side

1- batt to class t 250A 2/0 8.5"
2- class t to disconnect 2/0 - 3.5"
3- disconnect to busbar 2/0 - 10"
4- inverter to busbar 2/0 - 16"

5- 50A resettable bussman to + busbar 1/0 - 16"
6- 80A resettable bussman jumper to 50A 1/0- 7"
7- all battery connections between 4-6v AGM 2/0

Negative connections are all 2/0

1- batt to 500A shunt 2/0 - 9"
2- shunt to frame ground 2/0 - 5"
3 - inverter to busbar 2/0 - 15"
4- frame to busbar 2/0 - 25"
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:45 AM   #15
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I am assuming that your cable length purchases are close to your actual run lengths? If that is the case I would really try to look at your layout o shorten the 2/0 runs. If you can keep them around 5’ for both the + &- runs you will have better results when done.

Your battery negative to your shunt is sized at 2/0. Then from the shunt to the negative bus bar is also 2/0. The bus bar to frame ground only needs to be a #4 I believe. This should be the only bonding point. Don’t forget the equipment grounding conductor for your inverter as well. The size should be noted in your inverter documentation. Probably a # 8 or 10.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Fireguy View Post
I am assuming that your cable length purchases are close to your actual run lengths? If that is the case I would really try to look at your layout o shorten the 2/0 runs. If you can keep them around 5’ for both the + &- runs you will have better results when done.

Your battery negative to your shunt is sized at 2/0. Then from the shunt to the negative bus bar is also 2/0. The bus bar to frame ground only needs to be a #4 I believe. This should be the only bonding point. Don’t forget the equipment grounding conductor for your inverter as well. The size should be noted in your inverter documentation. Probably a # 8 or 10.
So I was grounding the shunt directly below it to the frame & then another 2/0 from the original frame grounding point to the negative busbar, do you think I'm ok with that .
Thanks for pointing out equipment bonding I forgot to add that in 8ga stranded.
Also all my measurements are from the center of the lugs.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:35 PM   #17
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Well got all my cables back today installed everything on the DC side except 8ga bonding wire on inverter & ground cable from shunt to negative bus bar. Starting sub panel tomorrow. Please let me know if you see any problems so far. Thanks in advance.
Bobby
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:29 PM   #18
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Thanks PNW Fireguy, Suny 07 we are up and running leaving Tuesday for Grand Teton and Yellowstone. I will be installing solar when we get back in October for a 3 month stay in Arizona.
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Old 09-07-2019, 06:49 AM   #19
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Nice! Enjoy your trip. Two great locations with a lot to take in.
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Old 09-07-2019, 08:18 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by CLM View Post
Nice clean install Mike!
Just wondering are you still using the factory installed automatic transfer switch, or does the Xantrex inverter/charger have one built in?

Hi ,

the factory devices are left in place but they are by passed.

Mike
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