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Old 07-27-2020, 11:40 AM   #1
lfalkenh
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Building Height for Montana 3921FB

I am about to start a building plan for a Mueller metal building to cover my RV. I want to cover the RV and have a storage shed for tractors, etc. However, my RV is at the dealership and I can't find the actual clearance height required with the TV antenna, etc.

Also, when planning for septic, does anyone know the length from the rear to the septic and water hose connections. The power is right at the back so that is easy to place. I won't get my RV back until I have the building in place.

Thanks and this is an awesome forum!!!
 
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Old 07-27-2020, 11:49 AM   #2
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It may be best to go measure your rig. All trailers plumbing distance from the rear are different. Some even have multiple drains.
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Old 07-27-2020, 11:55 AM   #3
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Unfortunately, I am in a different part of Texas and can't get there easily. I was hoping someone with a 3921 or 3931 would see the posting...
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Old 07-27-2020, 02:14 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum.

The highest point on your rig should be around 13 ft 4 inch. I would build my cover 3-4 ft higher to allow room to get up on top while it is under cover for inspection and maintenance. Put your drain and water 15-20 ft from the back end of the pad and you will be good.
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Old 07-27-2020, 02:57 PM   #5
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We keep our trailer in an RV specific storage facility. The entry door for putting the trailer inside is 15' if I recall. It is a metal building very similar to Meuller. The walls extend approx. 5' higher then go to a peak. Lots of room inside for standing on the roof and any other maintenance - it's also a pretty big building! If you go with something like that I would recommend an electric door opener with remote - very handy.
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Old 07-27-2020, 03:04 PM   #6
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I can’t remember anyone ever saying theirs was higher than 13’-6”. I would plan on a 14’ high door. And make sure that door is going to have a full 14’ clearance. I seem to remember my Mueller building 10’ door was actually just under 10’ when the roll up door was installed. But sold my land so can’t go measure.

And I would just locate the sewer in a convenient area out of the way and near the rear of the trailer. And then plan that you may have to use a sewer hose extension, and a section or two of house rain gutter to support the hose at a slope to allow good drainage.

Doing it yourself? I bought a Mueller 30’x40’ prefab building and put it up myself on some land we used to own. Fun project. But I was a lot younger then.
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Old 07-27-2020, 04:19 PM   #7
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Thanks to all...I am planning a 30x50 with lean tos on both sides and put the door as far over as I can on one side, and then leverage the lean to for extra storage barn and parking area for tractor, etc. Going to leverage rain water collection and Tesla PowerWall/Panels as well.
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Old 07-27-2020, 05:53 PM   #8
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I have a 40'x60' with 15' walls. Door is 14' clear and 12' wide. - unfortunately the door is centered, but that works also. I just added a 20'x60' - min 14' clear carport on side. When i need the shop space, I can move it outside. The side of the carport away from building has siding half way down, keeps the sun off trailer.
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Old 07-27-2020, 11:44 PM   #9
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I keep my rv in a metal building with the door 12' wide by 14' tall. I have no problem backing my rv in there. Most Montana's are 13.5'' tall at front a/c . The maximum height in most states is 13.6'' so a 14' door is no problem. Building any door taller to me is just a waste and if someone can't back into a 12' wide door then they couldn't back into a camp site. I can walk on top of my roof as long as i am hunched over as i have a gabled roof and i am 16' at the walls.
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Old 08-05-2020, 02:06 PM   #10
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I built a Carolina cover on a 24 x 40 slab. I should have made it 24 x 45. The side walls are 14 feet high. The center is 19 feet. I can park my rig against either side and my TV next to it. My rig is a 2011 324 RLQ Mountaineer. If I had made the slab and cover five feet longer, the ends of the rig would not have had as much sun exposure. With my higher sides, I can walk on the roof to clean it and treat it. Not that my sewer outlet is the same, but it is approximately 18 feet from the back bumper.
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Old 08-05-2020, 02:28 PM   #11
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Figure out what size you want then add 50% to it.. and keep in mind the fifth wheel you build it around may not always be there you may decide to get something taller longer whatever. Make sure it will accommodate the largest of RVs in case you decide to go that route.
I have a 40 foot wide 42 ft deep pole building that my camper stays in. It wasn't built for this one it was built for a previous toy hauler. I purposely have two doors in the front and two doors in the back which is great I can open them all up and air flows right through it

I told them I wanted a 13 foot clear door for the camper and ended up with 12 foot 10. It still fits but it's tight. If I had to do it over again it would be 60 feet wide and 60 feet deep with a 16 foot ceiling in 14 ft clear door. Then I could get the truck and the camper hitch together in it with all the door closed
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Old 08-05-2020, 02:51 PM   #12
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Figure out what size you want then add 50% to it.. and keep in mind the fifth wheel you build it around may not always be there you may decide to get something taller longer whatever. Make sure it will accommodate the largest of RVs in case you decide to go that route.
I have a 40 foot wide 42 ft deep pole building that my camper stays in. ...
This is great advice, if you can do it!

We have a 42' x 72' (which is the absolute biggest it could be in the space and direction that we put it in) and we couldn't park a 40' (according to Keystone) in a 42' space. Had to extend one wall by 9". Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't consider building a building less than 45' deep in the direction I'm going to store the camper in, at a minimum. They just keep getting longer.

13'6" door height clearance minimum, and the way that most pole barns measure that, is from the ground, and you lose clearance if you pour a concrete floor, something else to consider...
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Old 08-05-2020, 03:19 PM   #13
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Do a search for "Montana (model) specs" and you should find a complete listing of weights and dimensions. Maybe even get lucky enough to find your utility locations on a drawing too! If you get a 14' door and at least a 16' sidewall (eave) height, you should be good to go. I'm building soon and putting full hookups on an inside wall. And as long as I'm putting them in, I'm also putting a set on the outside wall too for visitors.
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Old 08-05-2020, 03:28 PM   #14
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Do a search for "Montana (model) specs" and you should find a complete listing of weights and dimensions. Maybe even get lucky enough to find your utility locations on a drawing too! If you get a 14' door and at least a 16' sidewall (eave) height, you should be good to go. I'm building soon and putting full hookups on an inside wall. And as long as I'm putting them in, I'm also putting a set on the outside wall too for visitors.
You cannot trust the stated specs from any manufacturer they are always wrong. Take my 3455sa for example. The literature States it's 37 foot 4 long. It actually measures 38 ft 11 with a tape measure. That measurement is from the very tip of the pin box to the very rear of the ladder. Some sites also have the height wrong at 13 foot 4. It's actually 12 foot 10
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Old 08-05-2020, 05:25 PM   #15
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Guess I was thinking ahead when I got my Steel Building. to get what I wanted had to go with 32 x 60 with a a 14 h x 12 w door and a 12 x 12 on the street facing end. 2 doors one on each side 3ft wide. poured slab 1st with all electrical/plumbing under slab, and included bathroom plumbing. 200 amp service entrance, and full hook up outside. Will I need it? If so will have it and can make a man cave or office, and due to location can sell out to some one needing a shop/office and can expand if needed. PS.. Sold my S&B now on staycation in Philippines for a while due to cv-19.
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:43 PM   #16
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Robert

I just finished my building, 40 x 80, workshop in front, rv and tractor in back. My Montana is 13’3 high so I put in a 14’ opening and wanted an overhead door, lots of room right, no. The overhead door needs headroom space to clear, you need 15 to 17 inches, had a lot of scrambling to adjust seeing I had a second floor to tend with, after adjustment and raising the overall barn by 6 inches. Ended up with 13,6 clearance. 3 inches to spare!
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:21 PM   #17
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My trailer building is 24x45 with 12' walls. Open trusses.
Continuous concrete footing with 2 runs of rebar.


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Old 08-07-2020, 08:17 PM   #18
lfalkenh
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Thanks for all the input...will post pictures when I am done...
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:37 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Ram Montana High Country View Post
I have a 40'x60' with 15' walls. Door is 14' clear and 12' wide. - unfortunately the door is centered, but that works also. I just added a 20'x60' - min 14' clear carport on side. When i need the shop space, I can move it outside. The side of the carport away from building has siding half way down, keeps the sun off trailer.
This is what I want to do but have the door off to one side. Living quarters on the other side with full length porch on living side and shop garage on opposite living side.
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