IS Bearings

[rames14]

We need to get bearings lubed prior to our Alaska trip. Since we have the Kodiak brakes, I believe the bearings are in an oil bath. Do you change the oil or am I missing something? I know how to pack regular bearings.

[artfuldodger]

Ron, we have IS installed at Moryde in 2019 with Kodiak disc brakes and our bearings are grease packed and easily durable by me each year.

[rames14]

John, my last unit (2015) had IS with the oil bath. In doing more research it looks like they discontinued that. So, regular grease on Timken bearings. Probably be April before we get it done. Thanks for the quick reply.

[dieselguy]

Just to be sure, if the cap on your wheel hub is metal with a rubber plug in it with possibly a zerk behind that, it's grease packed. If the cap on the wheel hub is clear plastic or slightly tinted with a rubber plug in the middle it's oil bath. I went with the Pro Lube oil bath conversion kit years ago and have loved every minute of it since. I've always hated packing wheel bearings even though it isn't really that tough ... Just messy.

[Ram Montana High Country]

Mine has the oil cap but is a greased bearing. I use a local trailer shop, not an RV dealer. Four bearings cleaned and repacked is under $200.

[VagabondLove]

I too have the plastic cover on the Kodiak wheels on our 8K Axle I/S conversion. The plastic says SAE 90, which means oil to me, but MorRyde delivered it packed in blue grease. 13K miles later, its time to inspect and repack prior to our next around-the-USA trip that starts in 4 weeks.

For those that have used the oil-filled instead of grease, would you do it again? @rames14 did your research determine why they discontinued the oil bath? To me, if it was designed for oil wouldn't that be the preferred configuration?

On the other hand, if MorRyde delivered it in grease, clearly they also have a LOT of knowledge and made an explicit decision to go with grease instead of oil.

Finally, do you have a part number for the inner seal? Would it be the same for oil as for grease?

Thanks in advance!
-Howie

[rames14]

Howie, on the mountain we’re still dealing with snow and cold. Won’t get to pull a wheel until April. Spend the afternoon splitting firewood - almost ran out.

[77cruiser]

I have these in the front axle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373444123822
Curious to see how much they've leaked over winter.
Had these first & they leaked with 90W. https://www.ebay.com/itm/271731266620
They seemed OK with this oil.

[mhs4771]

I asked Gary Wheeler of MOR/ryde about the Grease vs Oil.
He explained that Oil is great for Over The Road Trucks that are almost aways on the move, but not so great where many RVs sit for extended periods of time.
His feeling is sitting still for extended time the oil would flow off the bearings into the bottom of the hub, leaving the bearing dry while the grease would stay in the bearing. Thus they use grease unless the Customer requests Oil Bath.

[77cruiser]

I think he better try again, I know of lots of trailers that sit, we had trailers sit all winter or summer, just depended on what we were hauling.

[dieselguy]

Howie ... It really doesn't surprise me at all that you got grease instead of oil in your hubs. Dexter doesn't even send out their legendary EZ Lube axles filled with grease to actually make them work right. It's up to a dealer's tech or the owner to pump in about a tube of grease per hub. What happens at the factory stays at the factory depending on the flavor of the day. Gary Wheeler is probably knowledgeable in his field, but I have run across his "opinions" about oil bath hubs before ... I flat do not agree with his "opinion". We ran oil bath on the farm and so did our neighbors ... trailers sit over the winter or for long times between use and none of us had issue with rusted bearings. I've put oil bath hubs on 3 RV's ... a couple of units 5+ years ago ... no issue. I really like my Kodiac Prolube kits because I HATE cleaning and hand packing bearings. Changing oil is a snap and you don't get grease all over everything. I will say out of 12 hubs, I've had 3 of the plastic caps crack requiring replacement. I will admit the unique 2-piece rear seal is challenging to put on, but once you get the hang of it ... they work. I will also point out the rear seals are a one time use as you'll destroy them removing the wheel hub, but you do that with about any wheel seal. We use 80/90 wt Amsoil synthetic oil.

[Lee-CI]

Currently don't have any, but ran oil bathed bearings for years on heavy equipment farm trailers. On even old and neglected auction trailers purchased for refurbishing and use, we never came across rusted bearings. 10K and above Dexter axles even utilized super thin wear sleeves for the wheel seal to ride on. Still have a nasty scar from changing out an onrey wear sleeve years ago. Personally I don't agree with the notion that oil bathed bearings will rust due to infrequent use. My two cents

[mhs4771]

I don't have a Dog in this fight, just passing on what I was told when I inquired. Don't have any first hand info on the subject.

[Lee-CI]

No fight here. Merely sharing life's experiences. All comments are always welcomed

[rames14]

Thanks for all the info. I contacted Lindsey at MorRyde and I do have standard greasable Timken bearings. They have 2.25” seals and they use Kendall L427 Super Blu #2.

[Ram Montana High Country]

Originally Posted by 77cruiser

I have these in the front axle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373444123822
Curious to see how much they've leaked over winter.
Had these first & they leaked with 90W. https://www.ebay.com/itm/271731266620
They seemed OK with this oil.

I believe grease seals and oil seals are different.

[dieselguy]

The first seal referenced off EBay is actually a seal within a seal ... similar to the ones that come with the Prolube kits. They are pretty darned hard to install until you get the hang of it. The outer piece is a lip seal that interlocs with the inner seal that has a metal lip that keeps them from pulling apart. The outer seal holds tight to the wheel hub like you're accustomed to while the inner seal also holds tight to the spindle seal surface. The seal doesn't rotate on the spindle seal flange like a regular lip seal does. Once installed, they rotate inside one another. You have to install the whole seal into the wheel hub being extremely careful that it goes in straight and not cocked or it will leak oil. Then instead of duck walking the hub and seal onto the spindle, you kiss it against the spindle seal flange and just draw the hub and outer bearing onto the spindle with the spindle nut. If you try installing it any other way ... they will leak oil. When I was associated with the highway dept, the state maintenance shed had an installer for these kind of seals that located off the bearing races, but way too expensive for the occasional user. Some will find this interesting ... others will see it as way too much info.

[Our3231CK]

Were getting IS installed later this year, were torn between the 7K or 8K for the 2017 3820FK. I leaning toward the 8K as we live 8 to 10 months a year in the RV traveling. The roads are getting worse and I believe the IS will tame some of the earthquake shaking.

Anyone have experience with 7K wishing they went to 8K? Or very happy with the 8K?

[rames14]

We had 8k on our 3160 and they advised us to get the 7k on the 3230 (37.5’). That’s what we did. We travel some really bad roads in the mountains. No issues.

[VagabondLove]

Personally, I went for the 8k upgrade. Although we were 200 lbs under max weight for the 7k axles, that was not enough headroom for my comfort level. Plus, the I/S suspension weighs more than leaf springs. Going to 8k also allowed us to move up to the Goodyear g114 tires, which we are very happy with. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend 8k, as long as you know your actual weights. If you are anywhere near 14k for the trailer wheels, go for it, especially since you use it a lot. IMHO.