dump valve - Montana Owners Club

Doug and Anita · 08-23-2007, 04:34 PM

I would like to lubricate the dump valve but how do you get to it in the 2006/ 3295RK?

noneck · 08-23-2007, 05:13 PM

Argh, are you asking about the Black, Gray, or Galley? All are dump valves and I have NEVER actually lubricated any of them on any of the 4 RV's I have owned. There are a number of waste additives that suggest they will provide lubrication while being dispensed into the waste system via normal use appliance, so would suggest if you think necessary purchase and dispense one of these products.
If you have a specific issue let us know via posting on the forum and I'm pretty sure one of us will provide our experience with the issue for you to consider.

clutch · 08-23-2007, 07:59 PM

With our old TT the black valve started working hard and took a lot of effort to open and close. With the tank cleaned I used some WD40 on the shaft and sprayed some into the slide valve. It made a huge difference in the amount of effort required. I really feel that the spray on the shaft did the most good.

Doug and Anita · 08-24-2007, 02:10 PM

It is the black water valve that has become hard to open and close. I did run the lubricant through the system twice with no improvement. I would WD 40 the valve on the other side if I could get too it. I think that it is under the basement floor but I am not certain.

Eagle Man · 08-24-2007, 02:46 PM

There is a lady on some of the boating forums (called The Head Mistress), who advocates lubricating the head by dumping a small bit of baby oil in it.

bigmurf · 08-24-2007, 03:25 PM

Any time I have access to a dump valve I drill and tap it for a grease zerk. Give it a shot of Amsoil grease and not worry about it.

dsprik · 08-25-2007, 09:54 AM

Actually learned something on one of those RV television shows... Four screws in the valve. Simply unscrew these four screws (nuts behind them) and take the valve apart and lube the rubber seal.

I too have had some short term success spraying down the metal shaft.

Seems though that you would want to make sure you did NOT just dump your black tank before pulling that off of there... (talking about my main valve I added on the end of the 3400 sewer outlet after I bought it).

kdeiss · 08-25-2007, 03:54 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by dsprik

Actually learned something on one of those RV television shows... Four screws in the valve. Simply unscrew these four screws (nuts behind them) and take the valve apart and lube the rubber seal.

I too have had some short term success spraying down the metal shaft.

Seems though that you would want to make sure you did NOT just dump your black tank before pulling that off of there... (talking about my main valve I added on the end of the 3400 sewer outlet after I bought it).

You need to be very carefull that you position those rubber seals when
you replace the valve or you will have a leak.Trust me I have been their

dsprik · 08-26-2007, 04:16 AM

Thanks for the heads up, Ken. They did NOT mention that on their TV program. Made it look so simple. Imagine that...

sreigle · 08-26-2007, 10:51 AM

I would think if you remove a few of the screws from the bellypan, underneath the rig, you can get to the dump valve to get lubrication close to the valve or to remove it for relubing. The handle end of the valve mechanism is a long ways from the valve itself. I would think wd40 sprayed closer to the valve itself from underneath might be more effective.

deerrahn · 08-27-2007, 02:33 PM

I do not know aobut the enclosed underbelly's like on these Montana's, but on the prior 5th I replaced the black tank valve (by removing the 4 bolts). Had a dickens of a time trying to get everything lined up. Took 3-4 times putting together and taking apart until I finally got it to keep leaking. Lots of luck, and Have A Good Day

dsprik · 08-27-2007, 03:55 PM

Thanks, Richard! I may not attempt this disassembly project. Two people have now warned about getting the seal lined back up again. Spending $17 for a new valve is sounding better and better...

kdeiss · 08-28-2007, 10:47 AM

You still have to deal with the seal's with a new valve as well

dsprik · 08-29-2007, 11:17 AM

Ken, what I meant is that the new valves usually work fine for a while. Then when they start to act up - ours did after about 8 months of FT use - I would simply go out and buy another gate valve. I want to mention that I am talking strictly about the end gate valve that we Montana owners add after the fact on the end of our sewer pipe... not the internal valves that you have to drop panels to get at.

berridge · 08-31-2007, 11:48 AM

Try lubing the cable first to free it up. Reassembly of the valve itself is a brutal job-very hard to line up the parts especially lying on your back under the rig. Been there done that.

bigmurf · 08-31-2007, 03:57 PM

You mean the valve at the outlet? Stick a small hand up there with some O ring lube or Vaseline>

dsprik · 08-31-2007, 05:28 PM

We are talking about two different valve types/locations. I was talking about the add-on dump valve that one can buy at CW and just twist onto the terminal end of an RV sewer pipe.

I believe the original poster (and others) were talking about the internal Gray/Black/Galley valves that are tucked up under the belly and have to be worked on by dropping some rather obstinate belly panels...

You may also like: