has any body replaced an rv frig for a residential themselves

[pilotb123]

I am looking to see what I need to replace a RV frigs with a residential. We have a 3910fb and the RV frigs is in a slide. Not sure how much space is in there or how much space you need to leave to install the residential fridge. I am making sure I do not go over the weight, but would like to install a larger fridge in the space. Any advice on what we can do. Keystone not helpful on space or what they have installed on the residential fridges. Called a dealership to see if they had any helpful suggestions. Anything that might be helpful, please let us know. We do have extensive rehab skills, but nothing on an RV.

[routemaster]

I dont have a Monty but do have a Everest 344J and replaced the gas fridge with a Samsung RF197 in the year 2013.
I lined the location with the aloy bubble sheet, best mod ever.
See the vents sealed off.
With the coach having vents helps with access to holding the fridge down.
Den.

[Dsull]

Man I just logged in to post this exact question. My Fridge is dead, and was looking into a residential fridge.

My other question for those who run them is how many amps do they draw. I boondock 90% of the time and have a 400 Watt solar array with 4 6-volt batteries. Wondering if the fridge would take up all my capacity.

[routemaster]

I just checked, and my fridge is using 10amps on the Magnum.
I have the same set up as you 4/6volts GC batteries.

Den.

[1retired06]

Originally Posted by pilotb123

I am looking to see what I need to replace a RV frigs with a residential. We have a 3910fb and the RV frigs is in a slide. Not sure how much space is in there or how much space you need to leave to install the residential fridge. I am making sure I do not go over the weight, but would like to install a larger fridge in the space. Any advice on what we can do. Keystone not helpful on space or what they have installed on the residential fridges. Called a dealership to see if they had any helpful suggestions. Anything that might be helpful, please let us know. We do have extensive rehab skills, but nothing on an RV.

Not difficult. Have done several helping friends. We have a 3910fb and was considering. Difficulty with the 3910 floor plan is the slide closing against the island. Only four door fridge I could find that the wife was happy with had to be without handles because of depth. Width and height was not an issue. Ended up with a new cooling unit instead. But if you find one that fits, removing doors clears fiver entrance door, plug gas line, minor trim work. Take measurements of the frig from owners manual and start shopping. Like I said for the 3910 depth is the issue because when slide closes, left door right up against the island.

[Dsull]

Originally Posted by routemaster

I just checked, and my fridge is using 10amps on the Magnum.
I have the same set up as you 4/6volts GC batteries.

Den.

How long do you last on batteries

[Eagleback]

We are replacing our 1210 norcold in a week and waiting for the fridge to come in. We do not like the bottom drawer freezer models and were going with a Frigidaire FFBN1721TV. I know it dosent have an ice maker but we like the extra room in the freezer and like the look. it will require the removal of the drawer under the norcold but as we full time in Florida heat the norcold just is not up to the task. I will post a picture after we install the new fridge in a week or two. and it draws only 8 amps.

[Cacciato2006]

At the farm I use a Lowes brand 18 cubic foot fridge. When the compressor is running it pulls 6.1 amps at 12 volt DC but remember the compressor doesn’t run all the time. It also has a defroster or something and from time to time it will pull about 40 amps for three or four minutes. Not sure how often it does that. Last night over 12 hours it used 40 amps or 3.35 per hour but we were not there and didn’t open the doors. During the summer it will be more, winter less and if you stand in front of the fridge a lot more.

[Thunderman]

Originally Posted by routemaster

I dont have a Monty but do have a Everest 344J and replaced the gas fridge with a Samsung RF197 in the year 2013.
I lined the location with the aloy bubble sheet, best mod ever.
See the vents sealed off.
With the coach having vents helps with access to holding the fridge down.
Den.

What did you use on the top vent same aloy bubble sheet?

[JamesD]

My RV came with a residential fridge. I'd go with an RV fridge next time.
It's really nice when I'm plugged into shore power, but if you travel much, or boondock... it's not so nice.
You need an inverter large enough to run it while traveling or boondocking.
You'll need more than one battery if you plan on running it for more than a few hours off the inverter, and even then you are looking at something like a full day, maybe a little more depending on battery size and number.
You'll be running a generator a lot or have solar, and plan on buying a lot of solar if you go that way.

There is a company that makes conversion kits for RV fridges to switch them to all electric compressor based units. I think they have 12 volt versions so you won't need an inverter, and they don't use as much electricity as regular residential fridges. This makes them a little more practical for use with a solar setup. From what I understand, they cool faster than a regular RV fridge, but not as fast as a residential model.
So it's somewhere in between. I don't know the name of the company, but a couple on youtube made this modification.
It might be worth looking into, but a residential fridge will probably be cheaper.

[Cooter]

If you don't mind me asking. Why are you replacing?

[Eagleback]

Originally Posted by Cooter

If you don't mind me asking. Why are you replacing?

Not sure if you are specifically asking us, but were replacing because.


1. (space) 12 cubit foot is too small for full timing.
2. (Poor performance) Florida heat is too much to keep it cool in the summer.
3. (Reliability) It has broken down 3 times and with us 3 strikes and your out.
4. (Cost vs. Owning) Too small, too warm, not reliable. freezer works well but can keep milk or cheese a full week. And yes we have 4 fans on it not including the oem fans, new cooling unit. ETC. its just too hot in the summer in florida for this thing to work well.

[Dave W]

I was wandering the 'net yesterday and found this website. You can actually modify many of the Norcold friges to a compressor/residential unit pretty inexpensively and not have to worry about any cabinet mods. The site doesn't have pricing( https://jc-refrigeration.com/ )so you email for one.



Their normal mod is an Amish cooling unit for around 1200 bucks+/- which, if ours fails, will be my way to go --- and probably with their safer helium instead of explosive hydrogen gas

[JamesD]

Originally Posted by Dave W

I was wandering the 'net yesterday and found this website. You can actually modify many of the Norcold friges to a compressor/residential unit pretty inexpensively and not have to worry about any cabinet mods. The site doesn't have pricing( https://jc-refrigeration.com/ )so you email for one.
...

Bingo! That's the company I was talking about!
There are several youtube videos related to JC Refrigeration.
I suggest the ones from Mortons on the Move.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+refrigeration

[KevinNW]

Do some research before you go with a residential fridge. Mine went bad in less than a year(samsung). It's a pain to get them fixed when they do go bad. I was told by the Samsung repair tech they just aren't made to handle the rough ride in a TT. To get it out of the coach, you have to take the doors off. I wouldn't know anything about a new installation. Also, I live in washington and the largest Montana dealer in the state won't sell rigs with a residential fridge unless you request it, and they try to talk you out of it.

[PNW Fireguy]

Originally Posted by KevinNW

Do some research before you go with a residential fridge. Mine went bad in less than a year(samsung). It's a pain to get them fixed when they do go bad. I was told by the Samsung repair tech they just aren't made to handle the rough ride in a TT. To get it out of the coach, you have to take the doors off. I wouldn't know anything about a new installation. Also, I live in washington and the largest Montana dealer in the state won't sell rigs with a residential fridge unless you request it, and they try to talk you out of it.

Good ol' LaDonna!

[tadano64]

Originally Posted by 1retired06

Not difficult. Have done several helping friends. We have a 3910fb and was considering. Difficulty with the 3910 floor plan is the slide closing against the island. Only four door fridge I could find that the wife was happy with had to be without handles because of depth. Width and height was not an issue. Ended up with a new cooling unit instead. But if you find one that fits, removing doors clears fiver entrance door, plug gas line, minor trim work. Take measurements of the frig from owners manual and start shopping. Like I said for the 3910 depth is the issue because when slide closes, left door right up against the island.

Which cooling unit did you go with?

[DutchmenSport]

No comments on doing the switch over or your upcoming install, but I'd like to say when we got our current Montana it came with a residential refrigerator. I was very, very skeptical, but accepted it anyway. Our 3 prior travel trailers all had gas/electric absorption refrigerators, although small, they worked well for us. We did also travel with an electric cooler (a large one), that really helped on refrigeration space. We kept all our cold drinks in the electric cooler and used the refrigerator / freezer section for non-liquids. It worked well for us.

Then when we got the Montana, I was skeptical. But, time has proven it's worth. We've been very satisfied with the residential refrigerator. Once we figured out how to use it (while towing, while camped with and without electricity), and always planning ahead on the use of the camper, we've not had any issues. It really was a welcome change, having the larger refrigerator, actually as large as the one in the house. And the fact, it does not take 12-18 hours to cool down if it's turned off. It freezes ice from "off" (unplugged) to frozen ice in about 2-3 hours. Really impressive.

We had a repair done on it August '23. It's now 5 years old. It still running great! We keep it running 24x7, at home and traveling. The only time it's actually turned off is when it's too cold outside to keep the camper heated. (when the furnace runs through a 30 pound tank of propane ever 2 days, it's too cold). We move back in the house. Then the refrigerator gets unplugged (it has no true "off" switch).

I'm sure, you will appreciate the residential once you get switched over. One thing you might consider though.... First, instead of making a costly swap out in both finances, time and a rebuild in the camper, it might be easier to: get an electric cooler or a smaller apartment size refrigerator as a supplement in addition to your current refrigerator. Or Second???? It's time for a new camper that already has the residential refrigerator. (OK, I threw the bait "out there"... will the fish nibble?)