New rig, tire shread

[CalandLinda]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.

Just a note: No where in the FMVSS or USTMA standards and regulations are tire brands mentioned. The key words are Designated Size - Load Capacity and Appropriate.

Any RV trailer that is sold new MUST have tires that are the same designated size as what is depicted on the vehicle certification label. For the dealer to do otherwise is a direct violation of safety standards and the trailer will be subject to recall for such an infraction.

[Bad Moon]

Did anyone mention checking the wheel alignment? The OPs trailer was pulled from the manufacturer in Indiana all the way to Washington. Bad roads and indifferent delivery guys can easily mess up your alignment, and dealers don’t check alignment, and usually can’t fix out-of-alignment.

[lightsout]

Originally Posted by 214skier

Cautiously optimistic. We towed home 200 miles over Stevens Pass today. Sure seems less squarely and more solid underway and over bumps. The tires gave us at least 1” or lift overall. Feeling better on this issue.

Negotiating with Keystone to compensate us for the factory tires.

Keep in mind you are now likely over 13'6" Washington has a few bridges at 13'6"

My stock height 3791 is 13'-5.25" I will not lift under any circumstances...

Is your Truck lifted by chance should net be too hard to get a ford 350 level with any Montana

[CalandLinda]

Originally Posted by lightsout

Keep in mind you are now likely over 13'6" Washington has a few bridges at 13'6"

My stock height 3791 is 13'-5.25" I will not lift under any circumstances...

Is your Truck lifted by chance should net be too hard to get a ford 350 level with any Montana

https://www.rvtripwizard.com/rv-info/state-road-laws

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.

LOL! Ain't that the truth! I think that extends to struts, screws, appliances; well, you name it!

If that's not bad enough I started comparing trailers at the end of last year before purchasing. I thought I would bounce trailers in FL against my dealer in TX. I never knew there were so many differences between E and W rv's. Floorplans were basically the same (more or less) but things like types of slides, tires etc. were far more different that I would have imagined. (bought in TX).

[D A Busman]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

Even if not a nail this time, I would still recommend a TPMS. Even new tires can pick up a nail. And valve stems sometimes leak. Might save you another similar occurrence.

That tire just has the look of a run flat rather than a blowout.

These are a must have, so much peace of mind. Second year with one and will never tow without one again. If I might add... when buying a TPMS get the flow through sensors, they are so much easier to adjust pressure through than ones you have to remove.

[prndl]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.

Maybe the dealers are taking the Sailuns off the new trailers and exchanging them for tires on trailers being sold to make the sale. ergo, new trailer with lousy tires.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by 214skier

The 2020 Montana HC came with Rainier ST type F.

We replaced them with Geostar Type G, 14 ply. the Salinus were not available at the Les Schwab we went to; however, the insisted the Geostar were comparable.

Negotiating with Keystone to compensate us for the factory tires.

The tires gave us at least 1” or lift overall. Feeling better on this issue.

In reality, the new tires only raised your RV less than 1/2".
The Rainer ST Type F have a diameter of 30.8"
Ref: https://www.tredittire.com/tire/rainier-st/

The Geeostar Type G (an 85 aspect ration v. the 80 of Geostar) has a diameter of 31.7"
Ref: https://www.bestusedtires.com/geosta...-trailer-tire/

The .045" increase is not enough height difference to concern you.

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by mazboy

first question, are these G rated tires? if so were you running them at 100-110psi? the pic seems to show that they are not G614 GY. Saliun maybe?



as for the fishtail, that is a new one on me?

M HC arrive with Rainier LR F tires. If it were a G rated it would more likely be a GY G614 as they don't have near as good reputation of the Sailun

[allenclme]

Originally Posted by 214skier

This is actually a good comment given our experience. We naively assumed the electric jack system would operate like our former hydraulic system (I had a flat once and was able to easily lift and change with no issues); however, getting to manual and isolating the rear or starboard jacks simultaneously was not obvious at the time (I understand this statement is going to open up a whole flurry of comments).

The F350 jack would not lift at the frame--I was hesitant to lift from the axle.

The roadside assistance team hand a 12 ton bottle jack that they did lift from the axle and changed the tire.

First - I'm glad there were no injuries or damage to the skirt. My 3820FK actually has jack points identified on the frame, where it has extra angle iron in the flange where the leaf springs mount. I had to buy a bottle jack and to get enough hight to raise the frame to get the tire off the ground as my 3500 HD jack wasn't tall enough. I cut up a 12 x 12 board and made a jack base that gives me about 14" of height above the ground. I did this as the owners manual says not to use the hydraulic jacks to lift the vehicle.

[allenclme]

Originally Posted by 214skier

I am having the Ford OEM TMPS and back up camera installed.

I"m having the GMC TPMS and cameras (inside and back) installed. You all have just made a believer out of me

[phillyg]

Trailer King failures have been anecdotally reported for years, so probably good you are rid of them.

[Jcroome]

When our tire blew out it did major damage to the passenger side of the RV. Had it fixed and then blew out a tire on the driver side and did damage to the RV again. RV wasn't but 1-2 years old. Finally understood the tires that come on the RV are junk.
You were very lucky.

[Walt & Vicki]

Glad there is no damage to you or your rig. It looks like the remaining tire has been against a curb, and if so, the sidewall of the blown tire could have been pinched a little tighter on the same curb to create sidewall damage. Just a thought. And I agree, TPMS always.

[Texan]

Originally Posted by CalandLinda

https://www.rvtripwizard.com/rv-info/state-road-laws

Raising the rv at the axles will not raise the overall height of the rv. My rv was 13.5'' before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde to level rv with truck and 13.5'' after at the front a/c which is the highest point on our rv's. I also have the 235x85x16 tires. When you raise at the axles you are just pivoting the rv up in the rear and not in the front. The only way you are going to raise the front is through height adjustment of the hitch which some people do for bed clearance. Everyone needs to know the height and weight of there rv.

[214skier]

Originally Posted by Texan

Raising the rv at the axles will not raise the overall height of the rv. My rv was 13.5'' before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde to level rv with truck and 13.5'' after at the front a/c which is the highest point on our rv's. I also have the 235x85x16 tires. When you raise at the axles you are just pivoting the rv up in the rear and not in the front. The only way you are going to raise the front is through height adjustment of the hitch which some people do for bed clearance. Everyone needs to know the height and weight of there rv.

Can you tell me more about this, " before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde"

We are about 3" low in the rear.

[CalandLinda]

Originally Posted by Jcroome

Finally understood the tires that come on the RV are junk.

Here is an explanation for early tire failure on your trailer. It’s my opinion.

Correct me if any of this is wrong. Your trailer has 7000# axles, vehicle certified at 6850#. By doing that, Keystone was allowed to use tires rated at 3420# ea.. Therein lies the problem. Almost all 5th wheel trailers are going to have an entire axle or a single wheel position overloaded, especially when fully loaded. Without any or very little load capacity reserves, tires will be overloaded, heat excessively and fail. Add in the speed factor and the degrading of the tire is accelerated.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by 214skier

The 2020 Montana HC came with Rainier ST type F.

We replaced them with Geostar Type G, 14 ply. the Salinus were not available at the Les Schwab we went to; however, the insisted the Geostar were comparable.

Hopefully they will work out okay. I was skeptical of the Westlakes I had, an all steel tire, same as the Sailun, but switched to Sailuns anyway.

[Texan]

Originally Posted by 214skier

Can you tell me more about this, " before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde"

We are about 3" low in the rear.

I had the independent suspension installed at Mor-Ryde. Mor-Ryde measures your rv to see how much it needs to be raised to be level with your truck. Some trucks need maybe more or less. Most trucks pulling these rv's today are 4wd so they are taller than the 2wd trucks that most people had 15 or 20 years ago. If you are 3'' low in the rear then that could very well cause the rear axle and rear tires to be over weight. It is easier to lower the hitch but with you dealing with 3'' then you may want to do a combination of lowering the hitch and raising the rear or just raise the rear so as not to have to deal with losing any bed clearance. A level rv gives you more even braking and with weight being more equal gives you a much safer rv. Safe Travels.

[beeje]

We just had to IS installed 6/17-18. They welded a 2x3" tube to the frame, then a 2x2" tube to that. The then welded the IS on to that. All of that raised our trailer around 2".

It now tows perfectly level and rides like a dream.