Tank treatment questions

[Rixey & Jeff]

'22 3231 CK 38 ft owner here (6 months), new but learning, going full time shortly. So, the systems in the rig will be getting constant use. My issue is black tank treatments (grey also I guess.) Bought used, I have experienced the common issue of tanks sensors reading fuller than they are. As we get ready to hit the road full time, we paid to have all 3 tanks cleaned (they used a pressure washer, CLR, some Dawn, and spent almost 90 min cleaning.) Afterwards all tanks read empty. Now, several days and one tank dump later, the black tank is back to reading 3/4 full. We currently use recommended black tank treatments, several different brands.

I have an experienced RVer friend who recommends using Calgon and Pine Sol; his rationale is to stop viewing the tank as a septic system and look at it as only a holding tank. But for every two knowledgeable sources I consult, I get 3 opinions. Online sites have only added to my angst. Any recommendations from you guys?

[Cat320]

The best thing you can do to keep the black tank flowing is use lots and lots of water.

I've used a couple of tank additives, nothing commercial:

- A couple of ounces of Calgon or bath oil beads...makes the tank 'slippery.'

- In a gallon jug, mix 40 oz Pine Sol and 4 oz Calgon, fill with water. Put 4 oz of this solution in both black and gray tanks.

[Rixey & Jeff]

thanks, I have that particular formula. I don't mind trying different things, I just don't want to damage any seals or other tank components

[mhs4771]

I don't want to mess with the Gallon Jug, so I just add a cap of Calgon and approx a cup or two of Dollar ($1.25 now) Store Pine Sol and generally dump once a week with multipul flushes with the flush line till the output runs clear. Black tank sensor will read empty, but in two days will say full, but I just ignore it.

[AZ Traveler]

Rixey,

Tape over your black tank gauge - it's useless unless you install external tank sensors. Just use a lot of water, 5-8 gallons, in the black tank and dump every week.

[Daryles]

The only reliable gauges are "Sea Level".
I've read were someone installed Mopeka tank sensors. I haven't heard back how well they work.
When we get home I have a long "To Do" list when I drop the coroplast bottom. On the list is to add Mopeka tank sensors. They work great on propane tanks.

[DutchmenSport]

The question of cleaning up tanks comes up often and there are many different ways to do it. Basically, you have to find what works best for you. I've been through the gauntlet over the last 25 years of RV ownership and these are the things that work well for me.

First, the black tank sensor is useless. Don't depend on it. Instead, when you flush the toilet, listen to the sound of the water hitting the bottom of the tank. As the tank fills, the sound will become a higher pitch. You'll notice the difference after some time using it and paying attention.

The black tank needs water to flush out. How you put water in the tank is where folks do it different. Some use the black tank flush rinser. Some just hold the peddle of the toilet down and add water that way. Some fill their black tank by holding their dish washing water in a pan and pouring it into the black tank. Some backflush, which in a way is recycling the grey water (shower) for another purpose. Whatever method you use, it's water that cleans the tank out.

As far as the sensors working, I have found the only way to keep them working is dump and flush the black tank when departing for every trip, or breaking camp to go to the next destination. Then add 5 or so gallons of water and a 1/4 cup (or more) of Dawn dishwashing liquid. The sloshing in the tank will help clean the crud sticking off the sensors and they will work again.

The other thing you can do, if parked longer term is to use a toilet wand down the toilet. Hold the peddle of the toilet down to keep the flapper open, stick the wand down the hole and twirl it around. (The wand is connected to a garden hose). This pulverizing in the tank will beat the stuff off the sensors, and they'll work again (for a while), until crud sticks to them.

As stated, everyone has their own technique and you will soon develop your own.

First, I have found that dumping my black tank every other day works very well for us, even if the tank is not full. Why so often? It's because we very seldom camp with full hook-ups. I have a Barker blue tote (32 gallons) used for hauling the waste to the dump station. I have found that if I dump the tanks every other day, it comes real close to filling that 32 gallon tote (all 3 tanks) and the tote does not overspill.

Second. We have a Bidet and do not use toilet paper. We've been toilet paper free for over 3 years now. No toilet paper in the tank means one less "thing" to cling to the bottom, the sides, or cause clogs. Plus, it flushes much easier and uses less water. (Health benefits are better too).

Third. I back flush every time I dump the black tank. Back flushing is extremely easy, takes just a few seconds longer to dump your tanks, saves a LOT of water flushing out the black tank, and works remarkably well.

Fourth. Fill the tank with a few gallons of water and Dawn and go for a drive.

Fifth. For a really good clean, especially when winterizing, I use the black tank wand down the toilet. I have found this is absolutely much more effective than using the built in black tank flusher. But the back flush works remarkably well too. And the back flushing works well especially if you have a washing machine that dumps into the grey tank. The laundry soap helps keep things "moving" also and helps remove some odors.

As a last item, I use an enzyme drain opener eater for my pipes and for the tanks.

Last week I installed a new toilet. While the toilet was out I decided to clean the black tank. My first attempt was backflushing. The second attempt was the black tank flusher. The thing that really moved the stuff out was the toilet wand. While the toilet was out, I had a very good view of what was happening inside the tank. And the wand pushed everything out the best.

The bottom line is, regardless of how full the tank is, not everything comes out. Whatever is "floating" on the top will settle to the floor of the tank and just sit there. I saw this first hand. Back flushing pushes everything in and then the water tries to push every thing out, except stuff settles on the bottom again before it's discharged. Those tanks are shallow and wide and long. The black tank flusher spays in only 1 direction. And if the "contents" is settled on the bottom and the spray of water is not hitting it directly, it just sits there. Filling the tank full through the toilet may push some more stuff out, but what floats will still float and settle on the bottom again.

As a final, I also use an enzyme eater for the pipes and the tanks. It's Zep, you can find it at Lowe's Home improvement stores.

[rohrmann]

A neighbor in the park we spend winters at in Arizona, a couple years ago, and who is not a real RVer, had purchased an older fifth wheel, and had been leaving all his drain valves open. Well, it finally caught up with him, and he had the dreaded pyramid develop in his black tank. He had a Service come out to clean the tank out, took several hours and it clogged up the park drain line for a number of the adjacent RV's in the process. It also cost him $400 for the service. He was told to use the TankTechsRx Probiotic RV Tank Treatment and to not leave the valves open. An expensive lesson, but hasn't had any issues since. We've been using it for a number of years now, along with some liquid Calgon, and haven't had any problems. We dump the black tank once a week, and get a good emptying action of the tank. I'm sure this is equivalent to the other probiotic treatments that are available. https://www.justscience.com/product/...Tank-Treatment