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Old 02-10-2021, 01:10 PM   #41
WeBeFulltime
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Yada...Yada...Yada!
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Old 02-10-2021, 01:51 PM   #42
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It is much easier to buy a trailer to match your truck than the other way around. When researching a new truck, you can get the GVWR from the sticker and the payload capacity from the brochure but you don't know the real world payload capacity until you load up the truck with fuel, passengers, hitch, cargo, etc, then go weigh it. Can't really do that until you purchase the truck. Something you can do to get close is during your test drive, drive to a scale and have it weighed. During the test drive it will probably be you, your spouse and the salesperson. That will take care of passenger weight. Now it's time to do the math. Add to your scale weight the weight of a full tank of diesel fuel. Diesel weighs 7-8lbs/gal depending on temp and altitude. I would use 8lbs. 40 gallon tank = 320lbs. Now add the weight of a hitch. If you already have a hitch in mind, just use it's weight, if not, figure about 100lbs. With all those weights added together, subtract that from your GVWR on the sticker. The difference will be pretty close to your real world remaining cargo capacity. Time to figure your pin weight. Ideally you would load up your trailer and tow it to a scale to get that weight, but you need a truck to tow it. Let's figure it out with a safety cushion built in. Take the GVWR of the trailer and multiply it by 25%. That will be your MAX pin weight. Normal pin weight is around 22% but we are building in a cushion. If that calculated pin weight is less than your remaining cargo capacity then you are good to go. If not, start over with a more capable truck. Make sense ?

My set up with my numbers to help make sense.
Truck GVWR 14,000lbs
Truck loaded weight is 9,300lbs

14,000
-9,300
--------
4,700lbs real world remaining payload

RV GVWR 16,960lbs
25% = 4,240lbs MAX pin weight

4,700
-4,240
--------
460lbs built in cushion at MAX GVWR for the truck and RV

I know this all sounds tedious but it's worth the extra time to get it right and not short yourself on the wrong combo.



I know this subject comes up a LOT, mostly by newbies, but the OP should get an answer. Yada...Yada...Yada! is not an answer.
Just saying.
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Old 02-10-2021, 05:45 PM   #43
kowbra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JABURKHOLDER View Post
It is much easier to buy a trailer to match your truck than the other way around. When researching a new truck, you can get the GVWR from the sticker and the payload capacity from the brochure but you don't know the real world payload capacity until you load up the truck with fuel, passengers, hitch, cargo, etc, then go weigh it. Can't really do that until you purchase the truck. Something you can do to get close is during your test drive, drive to a scale and have it weighed. During the test drive it will probably be you, your spouse and the salesperson. That will take care of passenger weight. Now it's time to do the math. Add to your scale weight the weight of a full tank of diesel fuel. Diesel weighs 7-8lbs/gal depending on temp and altitude. I would use 8lbs. 40 gallon tank = 320lbs. Now add the weight of a hitch. If you already have a hitch in mind, just use it's weight, if not, figure about 100lbs. With all those weights added together, subtract that from your GVWR on the sticker. The difference will be pretty close to your real world remaining cargo capacity. Time to figure your pin weight. Ideally you would load up your trailer and tow it to a scale to get that weight, but you need a truck to tow it. Let's figure it out with a safety cushion built in. Take the GVWR of the trailer and multiply it by 25%. That will be your MAX pin weight. Normal pin weight is around 22% but we are building in a cushion. If that calculated pin weight is less than your remaining cargo capacity then you are good to go. If not, start over with a more capable truck. Make sense ?

My set up with my numbers to help make sense.
Truck GVWR 14,000lbs
Truck loaded weight is 9,300lbs

14,000
-9,300
--------
4,700lbs real world remaining payload

RV GVWR 16,960lbs
25% = 4,240lbs MAX pin weight

4,700
-4,240
--------
460lbs built in cushion at MAX GVWR for the truck and RV

I know this all sounds tedious but it's worth the extra time to get it right and not short yourself on the wrong combo.



I know this subject comes up a LOT, mostly by newbies, but the OP should get an answer. Yada...Yada...Yada! is not an answer.
Just saying.
Thanks Jerry, great summary of how to work through your numbers.

And agree that it may seem old and beaten to death to some, but vitally important to those who don't know.
How many times does someone buy a new 16k 5th wheel because the salesman said their 2500 will tow it just fine? Then they come to a forum like here and are told they bought the wrong truck?

Your information will help ones like that to avoid such a costly mistake.

Thanks again,

Brad
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Old 02-10-2021, 05:55 PM   #44
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We had a 17 Ram 3500 Megacab Short bed ... GVWR 12200... With the Montana 3610rl we were over the weight on the rawr... Tow rating 16600..... Traded Truck for the Dually Longbed... GVWR 14000 and tow rating of 31000... 4:10 made a big difference...
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Old 02-10-2021, 05:55 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by webefulltime View Post
yada...yada...yada!
yaba daba do.....
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Old 02-10-2021, 06:20 PM   #46
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[ATTACH]8452[/ATTACH Enough Truck?
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Old 02-10-2021, 08:31 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfb View Post
We had a 17 Ram 3500 Megacab Short bed ... GVWR 12200... With the Montana 3610rl we were over the weight on the rawr... Tow rating 16600..... Traded Truck for the Dually Longbed... GVWR 14000 and tow rating of 31000... 4:10 made a big difference...
The pin weight should have been around 3000 lbs. well within the gvwr on that shortbed.
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Old 02-11-2021, 10:07 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Montana Man View Post
The pin weight should have been around 3000 lbs. well within the gvwr on that shortbed.
The Truck's RAWR was over by about 200lbs... It was withing the truck's GVWR...
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Old Yesterday, 08:49 AM   #49
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Same Same people beating same
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Old Yesterday, 09:58 AM   #50
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Oviously some still have questions>>.
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Old Yesterday, 12:39 PM   #51
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These threads are entertaining.
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Old Yesterday, 03:18 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
Any RV Weight numbers are just a guess until you take delivery and can find the "Weight as it left the Factory Sticker". Our unit has a brochure weight of 14K, it left the Factory at just a few pounds under 16K and that's before propane, batteries, or anything else.
Our 2010 2955RL weighted at the Goshen Rally was almost 1000 Lbs heavier than the published pin weight.


When I started with this 5er thing from a TT a couple of campers ago I noticed one thing, every year the camper weighed more. Me? the wife? all my stupid projects I just had to change in the camper like the 3rd A/C?, the big water softener? Extra large tv`s or all tools that I think I`ll need this year? maybe the dual 4500 watt generators in the back of the truck I had to have to run all the A/C` at once
Nah I think it`s the wife`s fault, those darn pots and pans of hers.
I guess my point is the number runners that justify the SWR over the DRW are fooling yourselves or spending to much time worrying about running to heavy and restricting what you`ll eventually want to take along, you know like those new heavy e-bikes you bought because you just can`t cut it pedaling any more.
Life will change how you do things and you should be prepared for it. Just look at all the toys in the camper catalog this year.
Duallys reign with the big ones, now and in the future, others not so much.
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