3120RL Super Solar Flex Initial Impressions

[rames14]

Mike, curious if you got your weekly averages calculated. We ordered our 3230CK with Super Solar and planning on an April delivery. With all of the LED lights, curious what you found the strip lights to draw. We usually have the TV/satellite and a few lights on, and of course the fridge and water heater (on gas).

[MAWilsonPE]

Hello Rames14,

No, unfortunately my first boondocking trip is not scheduled until early April. I did list a bunch of power draws at the beginning of this thread. The LED accents lights were the biggest user for lights at 6 amps.

I have completed the install of 6 dimmer knobs to reduce this consumption some as the lights are all quite bright anyway. Each dimmer requires 4 wires and these run down to the control panel in the basement (~15 ft) Following Keystone’s lead I did not label anything but they follow the same sequence as the control panel with one more for the pendant lights.

Best, Mike

[rames14]

Nice install. Looks complicated. What gauge wire?

[MAWilsonPE]

Good question, I chose 12ga wire from a chart that said I could run 75 ft with 6 amps at 12 volts. I added 30 ft to what was probably 25-30 ft factory run so I figured 12ga was good. The accent lights are by far the biggest draw at 6 amps, the rest are half that or less. With the lithium batteries I get more like 13+ volts so I think that helps too.

The dimmers smoothly reduce the draw from 6 amps all the way down to less that 0.5 amp before the lights turn off. The dimming action is smooth with no fluttering. These dimmers are rated for 8 amps @ 12v.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The install was a challenge but there is a lot of room to pull wires to the basement through the wall behind the control panels. Each dimmer is 4 wires +/-, in/out, so that’s 20 wires or 10 pair to the basement the pendant light switch is upstairs. The InCommand panel wiring is very accessible and well labeled. I can take a pic of the wiring mods there if you like.

The light switch systems still work the same way as before and I can leave the dimmers where I want them.

Best, Mike

[rames14]

Very nice, high quality install. I have a lot of things to get done before I tackle that. Probably one of the first, depending on how the in-Command system tank Gages work, is to do a SeeLevel gage system. I’m guessing they used the same tank probes as before. I am hoping they are able to locate the solar on the 3230 so that we don’t lose as much basement. Probably adding basement LED lights will be one of the first mods. I also need to build a bench for the wall side of the dining table to store dog food and such. Plus, all the people like you with additions I never thought about before.

[MAWilsonPE]

Yep, same old probe system on the tanks. I plan to at least calibrate the levels with a hose and water meter. You only get 3 probes, my old Prowler had 4.

[Arkware]

Mike,

Very nice upgrade!
Like Ron, I am seeing a lot of "improvements" in my future.

Thanks for showing your great work!

Ron & Rhonda

[kowbra]

Originally Posted by MAWilsonPE

Good question, I chose 12ga wire from a chart that said I could run 75 ft with 6 amps at 12 volts. I added 30 ft to what was probably 25-30 ft factory run so I figured 12ga was good. The accent lights are by far the biggest draw at 6 amps, the rest are half that or less. With the lithium batteries I get more like 13+ volts so I think that helps too.

The dimmers smoothly reduce the draw from 6 amps all the way down to less that 0.5 amp before the lights turn off. The dimming action is smooth with no fluttering. These dimmers are rated for 8 amps @ 12v.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The install was a challenge but there is a lot of room to pull wires to the basement through the wall behind the control panels. Each dimmer is 4 wires +/-, in/out, so that’s 20 wires or 10 pair to the basement the pendant light switch is upstairs. The InCommand panel wiring is very accessible and well labeled. I can take a pic of the wiring mods there if you like.

The light switch systems still work the same way as before and I can leave the dimmers where I want them.

Best, Mike

Hi Mike,

This is a great post!
I would really like to see pictures if you can post them. This is a solution I have been working on without success.
I reached out to Montana and InCommand to check on availability of dimmers. Basically, InCommand does offer dimmer modules that will then show up in the display. However, these are not available aftermarket, and as of a couple months ago Montana has no plans to incorporate them.
I like that your solution with rotary knobs can actually work, as I had given up.

Thanks in advance for anything further you can share!
Brad

[MAWilsonPE]

Ok let’s take a look on the back of the InCommand cover. See the first picture below. Each light group has 4 wiring positions. #1-Switch input (not used), #2-12v 15amp input from fuse panel, #3-GND (two wires connected, one from the fuse box and one to the light, #4-12v output to the lights. See my first sketch below.

The dimmer works using pulse width modulation (PWM) which means it actually turns the power on and off very rapidly. The higher the percent on time vs off determines the brightness. What this means is that you have to feed both + & - to the light directly from the dimmer. It is not like a switch where you can break into the + only and have common grounds.

Remove the wires from the GND and 12v output. Determine which of the two grounds goes to the light by following the 12v output back until you find where the two are joined. Follow the GND to the light back to the connector and cut that one off the connector. Reconnect the one GND back to the panel.

Pull two double wires from the dimmer to the control panel. Connect the dimmer input to the GND and 12v output on the panel. Connect the dimmer output to the feed line to the light. See my second sketch. I used blue wire just to be different.

The last picture shows the final wiring at the panel. My InCommand system was installed upside down for some reason (the logo on the cover is upside down). No idea why but as you look at this photo the wiring positions go up as you go up the strip (backwards from the sticker). So you will see two sets of new wires. The new blue 12v output goes to the dimmer + input. The new blue/black wire is added to the GND position and goes to the dimmer - input and the bottom 12v input is unchanged.

I hope this is clear and helpful.

Best, Mike

[kowbra]

Originally Posted by MAWilsonPE

Ok let’s take a look on the back of the InCommand cover. See the first picture below. Each light group has 4 wiring positions. #1-Switch input (not used), #2-12v 15amp input from fuse panel, #3-GND (two wires connected, one from the fuse box and one to the light, #4-12v output to the lights. See my first sketch below.

The dimmer works using pulse width modulation (PWM) which means it actually turns the power on and off very rapidly. The higher the percent on time vs off determines the brightness. What this means is that you have to feed both + & - to the light directly from the dimmer. It is not like a switch where you can break into the + only and have common grounds.

Remove the wires from the GND and 12v output. Determine which of the two grounds goes to the light by following the 12v output back until you find where the two are joined. Follow the GND to the light back to the connector and cut that one off the connector. Reconnect the one GND back to the panel.

Pull two double wires from the dimmer to the control panel. Connect the dimmer input to the GND and 12v output on the panel. Connect the dimmer output to the feed line to the light. See my second sketch. I used blue wire just to be different.

The last picture shows the final wiring at the panel. My InCommand system was installed upside down for some reason (the logo on the cover is upside down). No idea why but as you look at this photo the wiring positions go up as you go up the strip (backwards from the sticker). So you will see two sets of new wires. The new blue 12v output goes to the dimmer + input. The new blue/black wire is added to the GND position and goes to the dimmer - input and the bottom 12v input is unchanged.

I hope this is clear and helpful.

Best, Mike

That is awesome info, thanks Mike!

Brad