Got tired of it. - Montana Owners Club

stiles watson · 06-10-2011, 09:35 AM

Twice I have paid for fixing a leak under my shower. Still had one. It was on the drain. The tub was not cracked. I just replumbed the drain using better quality parts than OEM. The OEM drain flange was plastic. I put in a metal flange with a metal nut on the underside. Then put in new PVC pipe from the drain to the "P" trap. I am no plumber, but it doesn't leak any more. Total cost: $15 worth of parts, some plumber's putty and ABS/PVC glue, both of which I had on hand..

Parts Ed · 06-10-2011, 09:44 AM

Now I know who to call or track down at a rally if we have that problem.

There is a certain amount of satisfaction when you do something yourself and everything works out just fine..

lfw · 06-10-2011, 11:38 AM

Stiles.. My first 5th wheel had a shower drain leak.. I fixed that..
Then when we got the Monty it had a shower drain leak.. I fixed it the same way I did on my first 5th wheel.. Look at the tail piece that comes from the shower drain and have someone step in the shower.. If it is close to the metal frame it will hit it and the shower drain will separate from the shower floor and cause it to leak when someone is taking a shower.. I cut away part of the aluminum so it would not hit.. It has been over 2 years and no more leaks..
lfw

scductman · 06-10-2011, 11:52 AM

Stiles I had to replace my drain a couple of yrs ago it leaked in the basement. I got a SS one from a plumbing supplyer and changed it all like you did also sprayed foam around the drain to make it solid. never had a problem since. Don't know why they put a plastic one where you step on it!!
Bobby

helmick · 06-10-2011, 03:15 PM

I changed ours to metal flange after it started to leak, it might have cost Keystone $5.00
extra if they had used metal.

azleflyer · 06-11-2011, 02:22 AM

I had to replace ours last summer with the plastic type. No leaks yet, but if it breaks again I will certainly go to the metal type.

Ozz · 06-11-2011, 02:51 AM

Good job Stiles! After what you two have been through, I hope this is it for a while.

mlh · 06-11-2011, 03:02 AM

Don't ever forget these campers all of then are built as cheep as they can make them look nice. A penny saved is profit.
Lynwood

CORattler · 06-11-2011, 03:05 AM

Thanks for sharing the fix Stiles. Now you KNOW it's done right!

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by stiles watson

Twice I have paid for fixing a leak under my shower. Still had one. It was on the drain. The tub was not cracked. I just replumbed the drain using better quality parts than OEM. The OEM drain flange was plastic. I put in a metal flange with a metal nut on the underside. Then put in new PVC pipe from the drain to the "P" trap. I am no plumber, but it doesn't leak any more. Total cost: $15 worth of parts, some plumber's putty and ABS/PVC glue, both of which I had on hand..

richfaa · 06-11-2011, 01:28 PM

Because of a tip by a MOC Member before we took delivery of our 06 Montana we have the dealer who was also a Winnebago dealer remove the OEM drain and replace it with a real drain used in a Winnebago.

No leaks ever.

Oh also on MOC advise we reinforce the underside of the tub with
thick styrofoam blocks. The bottom of the tub does not hit the floor OEM..Designed for failure.

stiles watson · 06-11-2011, 02:08 PM

I went out today to buy spray foam to fill in the hollow under the pan. That was under $5.00. I love cheap fixes. My dealer's service manager, Jim, recommended that I stiffen the floor to prevent loosening of the drain from floor flex when walking around in the shower.

CORattler · 06-11-2011, 03:27 PM

What is the access point to insert the nozzle on the spray foam? Do you use an extended length of tubing/straw or the straw that comes with the spray foam can to reach the furthest open space first? I would think you'd want to get the foam into as much area as possible. Is it advisale to replace the plastic drain before doing the foaming?

stiles watson · 06-11-2011, 05:15 PM

I plan to use the "Straw" provided with the can of spray. I don't plan to cover the connections with the foam. I will leave about a 4" diameter opening around the fittings to allow them to be accessible. About half of the floor is adequately supported. My desire is to provide support to the other side.

Care needs to be taken not to over fill the void because the foam expands significantly.

kingdaddy · 06-11-2011, 06:00 PM

Interesting...I have a couple of questions:
~ How do you access the area beneath the shower/tub pan and how do you know what area is supported and what is not? Can you see that area?

~ Wondering if this is a problem common to all Montanas or maybe more or less of a problem depending on model?
Have to check mine on Monday during my weekly visit to the storage lot.

stiles watson · 06-11-2011, 06:33 PM

On my unit, I can access the shower drain piping from the main bay. There is about a 4" hole through which can see up to the tub. I can feel where it is supported and where it is not. Additionally, I have Dianna walk around in the shower to see where it sags.

There is a strap holding up the piping from the shower orifice and the "P" trap. Mine was too tight causing the pipe to rock when pressure was on the floor. That rocking will eventually cause a leak from around the drain as the plumbers putty gets squeezed out. I also loosened the strap about 1/4"..

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