Level Necessities

[Christal]

how do you manually go 5-7..Degrees on keypad? everytime i try to move a jack it wants to have another one go with it. right now we are slightly of on our side to side not noticeable but it is to a leveler. i need to bring the right side (in the back/middle) up like a quarter of an inch. This is the very first time i have set my rig up at this spot but it says its level but it really isnt.

[AZ Traveler]

Originally Posted by Christal

how do you manually go 5-7..Degrees on keypad? everytime i try to move a jack it wants to have another one go with it. right now we are slightly of on our side to side not noticeable but it is to a leveler. i need to bring the right side (in the back/middle) up like a quarter of an inch. This is the very first time i have set my rig up at this spot but it says its level but it really isnt.

At the level up control panel start by pushing the on button, then the up arrow and finally the enter button. This puts you in manual mode. From there you can push the right side arrow which will lift the 2 rear right side jacks. If you go too far, push the retract button and then you can push any of the four buttons to lower that associated section.

[Bigfifi]

In our second trip using our 2020 3121RL Montana I used the auto level, when I checked the leveling I noticed that the RV was raised, literally had the tires off the ground, is this normal? Is it safe to have the wheels lifted off the ground?

[AZ Traveler]

Sounds like your spot is not very level. It is safe to leave it that way. You may want to consider boards under the low side tires and then leveling again.

[Camp CA]

Originally Posted by Bigfifi

.................I checked the leveling I noticed that the RV was raised, literally had the tires off the ground, is this normal? Is it safe to have the wheels lifted off the ground?

If the site is sloped in the rear it is possible to extend the rear jacks sufficiently to raise the tires off the ground. In that case suggest adding blocks under the jacks or moving to another site that is level to avoid that. Please refer to the links below to read about LCI's safety warnings.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0001531.pdf

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ice_Manual.pdf

[Christal]

Originally Posted by AZ Traveler

At the level up control panel start by pushing the on button, then the up arrow and finally the enter button. This puts you in manual mode. From there you can push the right side arrow which will lift the 2 rear right side jacks. If you go too far, push the retract button and then you can push any of the four buttons to lower that associated section.

thank u

[Bigfifi]

My wife is terrified of me putting any kind of blocks/supports under any of the jacks??? What is the best thing to use to make her feel comfortable with placing supports under these jacks?

[mazboy]

I assume you have the 6 point leveling system. You don't have to put anything down for the legs....But, if yo,u do then the only reason you put wood or another support down is to firm it up on the ground. It also helps to reduce how far your legs go down so you have less movement in the trailer.


You really don't need anything down on the ground generally.

[CaptnJohn]

Out of stroke is simple to correct! I have 2X12 capped with 1/2” ply made for 3 units back. Have not used them on the 2 Montana’s. I bought Snap Caps for the 6 feet to add a little stability. I also use the extra sewer valve. After many sewer hoses I bought a Drain Master and it is the best ever, never look to replace it and impossible to leak when removed.

[Bfisher003]

We have a 2019 Montana 3121RL 20 Year Anniversary Edition. I put Snap Pads on all six jack plates and raised the four rear jacks up one hole in the mounts. I also carry a set of blocks, but in the probably 75 or so places we’ve camped with the Montana I have never needed to use them. If I remember correctly there was only one campsite where one side had the wheels just slightly off the ground. The hydraulic levelers are great!

[Cadent59]

Originally Posted by DebNJim B

Using blocking is a good idea. In addition to spreading the load out it adds stability.
I too raised our rear jacks after I bottomed out a couple times exiting fuel stops and an rv site that was sloped. I purchased Anderson Blocks to compensate.
https://andersenhitches.com/Products...ack-block.aspx
Yes, they are expensive but they are rugged and they have magnets that stick to the leveler feet so there is no guessing about the feet hitting the blocks. It reduces the jack stroke by 8".
One experience I recently had, When returning from FL a couple weeks ago, we stopped for a couple days in Brunswick GA. It was raining when we arrived and our pull thru site was pretty level so I didn't put the blocks out, just hit the auto level button. While we were there we noticed the camper "rocked" around much more when we walked around inside. By using the blocks of any kind you shorten the stroke of the leveler jacks and will have a much sturdier set up.

I also use the Valterra exit valve, and the storage tube mounted under the frame. Both worth their weight in gold. (course they don't weigh much)

Andersen blocks are definitely the way to go!

[lightsout]

Originally Posted by Cadent59

Andersen blocks are definitely the way to go!

There has been a lot of complaints about Andersen Blocks failing, Plastic jack block in general are highly problematic especially if you do not have a good base. As much as Andersen wants for their Blocks they should be bullet proof but they are cracking and breaking down for many people.

[Cadent59]

I have used mine for more than 2 years, and have not had any issues. I can't say that about their hitch. The blocks are expensive, but I believe they're worth it.

[Rsmarlow82]

Some good replies I almost always use (2) short 4x4 + a 2x12 x15” under each hyd. Jack

I do have a question . Ours is a 3701 LK With residential frig in the back there are no jacks in the back and is seems to sag ( or feels bouncy) any fixes to this ??

[McRod]

Originally Posted by lightsout

There has been a lot of complaints about Andersen Blocks failing, Plastic jack block in general are highly problematic especially if you do not have a good base. As much as Andersen wants for their Blocks they should be bullet proof but they are cracking and breaking down for many people.

Hrmm... I am not so sure about that. My Big Sky weighs 17k,. I've been using Andersen blocks since 2017- Full Time. Never had a problem. They shorten the throw of the legs and make the RV more stable as their base is larger than the metal foot. They stack nicely, and I have been on some very unlevel ground and trusted them (doubled up) to hold my rig.

They are more expensive than scrap wood, but they are way more stable and easier to line up. They have a magnet that allows you to attach them before lowering the legs. IIRC, a single one can hold 6k lbs. I have 6 of them, 1 for each leg.

[CaptnJohn]

Snap Pads go on and stay on. After adding to 2 5ers have never used blocks yet.

[McRod]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

Snap Pads go on and stay on. After adding to 2 5ers have never used blocks yet.

Yeah those are good, especially if your concerned about damaging the ground surface, like hot asphalt. They do increase the footprint, but they are rubber so some flexibility should be expected on uneven ground. You won't forget them!

[lightsout]

Originally Posted by McRod

Hrmm... I am not so sure about that. My Big Sky weighs 17k,. I've been using Andersen blocks since 2017- Full Time. Never had a problem. They shorten the throw of the legs and make the RV more stable as their base is larger than the metal foot. They stack nicely, and I have been on some very unlevel ground and trusted them (doubled up) to hold my rig.

They are more expensive than scrap wood, but they are way more stable and easier to line up. They have a magnet that allows you to attach them before lowering the legs. IIRC, a single one can hold 6k lbs. I have 6 of them, 1 for each leg.

That is like saying I pulled my 16000lb 5er with my 1/2 ton truck and nothing happened. All that says is it did not happen to you whereas many have reported significant issues with the Andersen Blocks, but I guess they are all lying?

I was just putting out there that there are significant complaints regarding the Andersen Blocks there are also favorable reviews which only means it has not happened to them (yet). The Andersen Blocks require a perfectly level and clean surface which is often not available which may be some of the failure issues.

With wood Blocks that is generally not an issue and you do not have to worry about collapse...

Look I use a Andersen Hitch I really like their products, but I am not willing to put my 5er on blocks that are having reported failures. At $44 a piece that is spendy for a plastic tub.

[McRod]

Maybe...but two big differences in your analogy. 6k lbs x 6 blocks is 36k lbs...since my trailer only weighs 17k lbs, it would be MORE like saying I pull a pop-up trailer with my Ram 3500 dually. Kind of an over kill, but illustrates the point.

The second point is I am speaking from first hand experience over continued use, whereas, your speaking from no experience, only what others have told you.

Take it for what it's worth...

[lightsout]

Originally Posted by McRod

Maybe...but two big differences in your analogy. 6k lbs x 6 blocks is 36k lbs...since my trailer only weighs 17k lbs, it would be MORE like saying I pull a pop-up trailer with my Ram 3500 dually. Kind of an over kill, but illustrates the point.

The second point is I am speaking from first hand experience over continued use, whereas, your speaking from no experience, only what others have told you.

Take it for what it's worth...

Look they are likely just fine for mid and back jacks since if they do fail the tires will stop the fall, however the concern is the front jacks where all the weight is. Personally just will not put my RV on plastic. especially if not on concrete or asphault.

I do use these from Andersen however if one breaks it is not a catestrophic event.