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Old 06-09-2022, 08:42 PM   #21
Daryles
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Maybe build a pole barn to park it under. It will help shade it in the summer and keep the snow off in the winter.
Definitely skirt it.
There are lots of wintering tips in the forum section
"Burrr, it's cold outside!! Winter Camping".
 
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Old 06-10-2022, 08:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
Maybe build a pole barn to park it under. It will help shade it in the summer and keep the snow off in the winter.
Definitely skirt it.
There are lots of wintering tips in the forum section
"Burrr, it's cold outside!! Winter Camping".
And that's a great idea!
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Old 06-10-2022, 10:39 AM   #23
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I like that idea! Thanks!
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Old 06-10-2022, 07:27 PM   #24
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I put a deposit on this camper tonight, I should be able to pick it up in a week or so. I used one of the PDI checklists from this site and found a few minor issues that I should be able to correct easily.

One thing I noted when inspecting the roof were a few small wrinkles or bubbles in the rubber roofing. They didn’t feel soft underneath, so is this normal or is it a problem?
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Old 06-10-2022, 07:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Columbo View Post
I put a deposit on this camper tonight, I should be able to pick it up in a week or so. I used one of the PDI checklists from this site and found a few minor issues that I should be able to correct easily.

One thing I noted when inspecting the roof were a few small wrinkles or bubbles in the rubber roofing. They didn’t feel soft underneath, so is this normal or is it a problem?
The roof looks like it needs some attention. It doesn't say run but....the bubbles and wrinkles are normal. The staples on the seam are concerning. Nothing that cant be sealed especially in your case. Not rolling and parked. A tube of dicore should take care of it.
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Old 06-10-2022, 08:20 PM   #26
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I think the last pic is staples coming up. My unit had this and just left them alone and Keystone says it is normal! Never had a problem with the staple area, but other sections needed attention.
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Old 06-10-2022, 10:06 PM   #27
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I have a bubble on the front left corner behind the cap. It's about 3" around. It's been that way for a couple of years. If it gets bigger I'll get a big syringe and a fat needle and inject glue into it. Then put a big weight on it for a week or so.
I had one lump where I thought, as many, a staple was backing out. I cut it open and it was in fact a screw. I tightened it back down, injected dicor into the slit I made then put Eternabond tape over it.
So far so good.
I will do the same to other screws as they need attention.
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Old 06-11-2022, 03:44 AM   #28
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Thanks for the feedback! The area with the raised staple appearance didn’t feel soft underneath but almost felt as if something was slightly loose and had raised up. Anyone else see this and how did you deal with it?

Are tank heaters an option on the units or standard equipment? I didn’t see a switch for tank heaters anywhere.
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Old 06-11-2022, 04:25 AM   #29
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The 2012 brochure says tank heaters are standard…
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Old 06-11-2022, 06:26 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Columbo View Post
Thanks for the feedback! The area with the raised staple appearance didn’t feel soft underneath but almost felt as if something was slightly loose and had raised up. Anyone else see this and how did you deal with it?

Are tank heaters an option on the units or standard equipment? I didn’t see a switch for tank heaters anywhere.
Those staples that are coming up hold down a piece of sheet metal or flashing that forms the radius of the roof edge. It is the flashing that feels loose.
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Old 06-11-2022, 11:59 AM   #31
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Quote:
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....Are tank heaters an option on the units or standard equipment? I didn’t see a switch for tank heaters anywhere....
The 2012 definition of heated tanks differs from the current definition. In 2012, the a "heat" is provided by a piece of flexible duct line from the heater to the underbelly area of the tanks.

Current models have 12V heating pads under the tanks. There is a difference.
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Old 06-11-2022, 02:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl n Susan View Post
The 2012 definition of heated tanks differs from the current definition. In 2012, the a "heat" is provided by a piece of flexible duct line from the heater to the underbelly area of the tanks.

Current models have 12V heating pads under the tanks. There is a difference.
I go WAY BACK and the way we heated tanks was two 60 watt bulbs in the underbelly.
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Old 06-12-2022, 04:49 AM   #33
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Thanks for the clarification. For my purposes, which could involve living through some pretty cold temperatures, I should probably look to add the stick on tank heater pads?
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Old 06-12-2022, 08:10 AM   #34
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Thanks for the clarification. For my purposes, which could involve living through some pretty cold temperatures, I should probably look to add the stick on tank heater pads?
If you are not moving your rig once you get it in place, skirt it. If you do this you won't need tank heaters.

Bead/channel skirting by Cody James.
Best skirting I've seen.
You will need to join the group
"Let's stay warm together" to view this post.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/706610...66488296858418

Basically he Used awning C Chanel all around the rig and then sewed rope onto 18oz vinyl coated polyester material. The Skirting slides into the Chanel, he used outdoor Velcro on the vertical parts. He made it long to shed water away from his rig, and provides for anchoring it down with weights (helps keep mice out.).

https://rvstoredirect.com/collection...ack-16-1650802

You can find many examples of skirting by searching. Most people use 2" styrofoam.
I would put styrofoam in first, then use the vinyl skirting.
Don't forget to put a couple of light bulbs under there for heat.

For insulating your windows, get heavy duty clear vinyl. Tape it over the windows on the outside. Use metal foil tape. When you remove it, it comes off and does not leave residue. You need to do this before it gets too cold. Make sure the surface is clean.
Do the same on the inside of the windows. On the inside use yellow Frog painters tape. Again it does not leave a residue.
By doing this you will create two air gaps (insulation) over your windows and prevent condensation. This will also allow sunlight in to help warm you.
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Old 06-12-2022, 08:21 AM   #35
Columbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
If you are not moving your rig once you get it in place, skirt it. If you do this you won't need tank heaters.

Bead/channel skirting by Cody James.
Best skirting I've seen.
You will need to join the group
"Let's stay warm together" to view this post.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/706610...66488296858418

Basically he Used awning C Chanel all around the rig and then sewed rope onto 18oz vinyl coated polyester material. The Skirting slides into the Chanel, he used outdoor Velcro on the vertical parts. He made it long to shed water away from his rig, and provides for anchoring it down with weights (helps keep mice out.).

https://rvstoredirect.com/collection...ack-16-1650802

You can find many examples of skirting by searching. Most people use 2" styrofoam.
I would put styrofoam in first, then use the vinyl skirting.
Don't forget to put a couple of light bulbs under there for heat.

For insulating your windows, get heavy duty clear vinyl. Tape it over the windows on the outside. Use metal foil tape. When you remove it, it comes off and does not leave residue. You need to do this before it gets too cold. Make sure the surface is clean.
Do the same on the inside of the windows. On the inside use yellow Frog painters tape. Again it does not leave a residue.
By doing this you will create two air gaps (insulation) over your windows and prevent condensation. This will also allow sunlight in to help warm you.
That skirting job looks really good, I’ll check out the Facebook group. Thank you!
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Old 06-12-2022, 02:05 PM   #36
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That skirting looks great! If I ever planned on being where it’s cold again I’d consider doing that. I don’t plan on ever being in a cold area again.
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Old 07-25-2022, 06:39 PM   #37
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So, I bought the rv that started this thread, thanks to all those who replied so far. In my final inspection I noted that one of the hydraulic lines that goes from the auto level control panel area to the front bedroom slide has a slight drip. I had the seller knock off a couple hundred bucks since this will likely need to be fixed. I’m very familiar with replacing hydraulic lines on tractors and heavy equipment, anything unique about these lines and arrangement? Does anyone know if the fittings are a common size so I can have this hose made at a local hydraulic shop? Thanks!
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Old 07-25-2022, 06:48 PM   #38
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So, I bought the rv that started this thread, thanks to all those who replied so far. In my final inspection I noted that one of the hydraulic lines that goes from the auto level control panel area to the front bedroom slide has a slight drip. I had the seller knock off a couple hundred bucks since this will likely need to be fixed. I’m very familiar with replacing hydraulic lines on tractors and heavy equipment, anything unique about these lines and arrangement? Does anyone know if the fittings are a common size so I can have this hose made at a local hydraulic shop? Thanks!

I'm sure they're standard SAE fittings since they are most likely made at the factory. Even if they are metric you should be able to remove and take to a hydraulic hose shop and have one made.
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Old 07-25-2022, 07:02 PM   #39
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If you use the "Search" function on the site, there are some really informative posts on the almost-unique Lippert hydraulic fittings, caps, plugs, etc. Anyone wanting to be proactive and being able to isolate one cylinder and line would look up these fittings and carry some as spares. From the postings, I got the impression they are not exactly industry standard. I guess I should follow my own advice !
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Old 07-25-2022, 08:15 PM   #40
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https://store.lci1.com/hydraulic-hos...oupling-138416


Standard JIC
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