Norcold 1210 no power

[montanaowner]

So, here is a difficult one. I am perplexed on this issue.

My refer quit cooling. 12 years old so I figured why not get it repaired. I had an optical control unit and a cooling unit put on. He used an Amish brand and he took away the overheat switch that was part of the recall. BEFORE I took it to the shop, I had power everywhere.

Now post repair and installation, I have nothing. No power to the control panel. Won't turn on at all. Voltages are at spec. New board. Nothing wrong with the old one. We tested both at the shop when I took it back. Did a lot of troubleshooting on this out of the manual. Everything checks out. That keeps sending me back to look at the trailer wiring.

When he runs it off a converter in the shop direct wired, the refrigerator works fine. I get it here, install it and have a dead refrigerator. So, if I have power going to everything and it works in the shop direct wired, worked before the installation of the AMISH cooling unit but doesn't work now......what happened?

I am stuck on the idea that something with the wiring changed with the new unit. I do have an email out to the manufacturer of that cooling unit to ask questions. Waiting on a reply.

Anyone have any ideas on where to go next with this?

As a special request. I am tired, frustrated, in the process of a move from one location to another for my work. In need of some solid advice. Just don't need the trolls and jokers piling on my thread.

Thanks

[AZ Traveler]

Matthew,

Has your reefer been modified to be a compressor model? Does it use 120v, 12v or both? Might try running an extension cord to the 120v plug from a genny or shore power assuming it runs off 120v.

[Carl n Susan]

If the control panel display is blank it is an indicator of no 12V power. Is there 12V coming into the Power Board? This is the point where your shop's converter would have connected (and the refer works) vs your RV power (which doesn't seem to work). If there is no power there, then you have to work your way back to the fuse panel.



In case you haven't seen this, the Norcold 121x Service Manual in the Files section may help figure out the problem.
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=72

[montanaowner]

Nope still the same old Norcold Ammonia based stuff. Just not a norcold cooling unit now. It is one made by the Amish.

https://rvcoolingunit.com/1200-Norco...sh-P13259.aspx

Not a product endorsement if anyone is wondering. Just what is in there.

Anyhow, I did go AC from a different source. Nothing. The optical control which is the buttons on the front is not getting power. No DC delivery to even switch it over to gas. It is dead until you hook it into a 12 volt converter and run it directly. Wasn't doing that before I took it to the shop and got the coils and all that mess replaced with the Amish stuff.

Obviously something wrong in the DC delivery. You need that board powered to run the unit. Just not seeing where to go from here. Getting power to the point of the board. New board too as I mentioned. A spare I had. So, lots of things ruled out.

He deleted the overheat board that was part of a recall. Unsure if that might have changed a circuit or made the system think there is an overheat all the time and cut power. Really have been brainstorming and not coming up with much.

As I said, any help would be appreciated.

[montanaowner]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

If the control panel display is blank it is an indicator of no 12V power. Is there 12V coming into the Power Board? This is the point where your shop's converter would have connected (and the refer works) vs your RV power (which doesn't seem to work). If there is no power there, then you have to work your way back to the fuse panel.
Attachment 9346


In case you haven't seen this, the Norcold 121x Service Manual in the Files section may help figure out the problem.
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=72

Thanks. I will go back and look again. There is something I am missing for sure. Great suggestion and much appreciated.

The baffling thing. All readings are correct into the circuits. Just going to have to look again and see what I can come up with fresh and having taken a day off from the problem



Best wishes

[mazboy]

the first thing I would consider too is the fuse. But from that on I hear you reference 'he' alot so I assume it is someone who supposedly modified your refrig. Get on the phone with him since he did the modification.

Or better yet; suggestion to me would be to bring it back to that guy and tell him to correct the problem. I suspect it is something that he did and your not going to figure it out the traditional ways.


good luck

[montanaowner]

Originally Posted by mazboy

the first thing I would consider too is the fuse. But from that on I hear you reference 'he' alot so I assume it is someone who supposedly modified your refrig. Get on the phone with him since he did the modification.

Or better yet; suggestion to me would be to bring it back to that guy and tell him to correct the problem. I suspect it is something that he did and your not going to figure it out the traditional ways.


good luck

Maybe I wasn't clear in the post. The refrigerator has been back to the shop twice. The rig has not. I live in my fifth wheel. Not convenient to take the home to the shop and drop it off for maintenance

Thanks for the suggestion.

[Eagleback]

We live full time in ours for 7 years and the best thing that happened after year after year of problems and fixes resulting in thousands of dollars 2 new cooing units lots of fans, you name it and we through out the norjunk. Now have a resedentual.

[montanaowner]

Originally Posted by Eagleback

We live full time in ours for 7 years and the best thing that happened after year after year of problems and fixes resulting in thousands of dollars 2 new cooing units lots of fans, you name it and we through out the norjunk. Now have a resedentual.

I've considered it. Still sticking with the ability to cool from Propane too. Eventually will be self sufficient.

I do agree the quality could be better. Refrigerator itself isn't too hard to work on parts swapping. There just isn't much to them.

[Eagleback]

Originally Posted by montanaowner

I've considered it. Still sticking with the ability to cool from Propane too. Eventually will be self sufficient.

I do agree the quality could be better. Refrigerator itself isn't too hard to work on parts swapping. There just isn't much to them.

I HAD that exact same thinking.

[montanaowner]

Originally Posted by Eagleback

I HAD that exact same thinking.

I can see why. If this doesn't get resolved soon, I might just pull it, store it and go with a residential unit. I am going to be sitting on a long term contract and won't need alternate fuel.

Mulling that one over now.