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Old 02-06-2012, 05:42 AM   #1
Montana Fan
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: madison
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #11617
check valve...

unit- 2011/3455SA new Aug '11---after experiencing a pump failure, I decided to replace the pump with a better than OEM one... the new pump failed within hours... the folks at Shurflo were great and replaced the unit immediately with no problems, however they did ask about a check valve in the system... after following all the lines, the only check valve is at the output side of water heater... as the water heats up, pressure in the system increases to above 100# (placed gauge on lines)... solution, installl check valve at input side of water heater, it protects the water pump and all the lines on the primary side of system... also installed flexible hose 20" lon on both connections to the pump to eliminate noise and potential vibration damage due to it being connected to plastic lines directly...
While on the pump , installed 12ga wiring to pump and switched it with a relay using the original wiring to activate relay...
Hope this helps anyone with similar problems...
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #2
Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
Dpilot, thanks for the information. I admit to being knowledge-challenged in this area and thus am confused as to the purpose of the additional check valve. Also, did you install it into the threads of the inlet like the one on the output side? This would require a check valve that is directionally opposite of the one on the output side, right? I guess if it's inline and not threaded into the water heater inlet then it's just a matter of following the arrows on the valve, right? Confusion is a common characteristic of this easily-addled brain so if you wouldn't mind explaining it I would be appreciative. Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:02 AM   #3
Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
Interesting. I had speculated that the whole closed system on the RV was being over pressured some time ago when I contacted Suburban regarding the T & P valve weeping when our water heater was on gas. Thread. I had intended to test the system but never did. Glad to see your results. We've never had any of the Pex lines leak, but you may well have found the solution for ones that do.
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:55 PM   #4
Montana Fan
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: madison
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #11617
thank you guys... actually I bought a F/F 1/2" check valve and then used a coupler to connect it to the heater... you are correct, just follow the arrows and you cant go wrong... it will protect your pump and primary system as well... primary I mean between pump and heater or external water in and heater...
since you have the thing I had you may want to consider making a 3/4" wooden base, mounted on home made rubber insulators and then mount the pump on it.... after connect the pump with 1/2" hi pressure hose about 18" or more each... now I barely can tell the pump is running...
the other change was to run #12 ga wire from 12v supply to pump, add an in line fuse and switch the power to the pump with an auto type relay using the original wires to activate the relay....
so far it works great... and I hope it stays since I feel like a Keystone part time engineer... pro bono!!!!!!
again tnx for your comments... good luck... if you decide to do it, feel free to pm me anytime...
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:05 PM   #5
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
I've wanted to quiet my "rattler" water pump since I 1st got my rig. You have given me some good ideas! Pictures of your work would be appreciated if possible. Thanks for the informative post!
2010 3150RL
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #6
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Location: Calgary
Posts: 162
M.O.C. #10763
+1 to what Jay said...

Please post some pictures if you can... Thanks for your post...
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