Mid-coach turn signal

[jjwhite368]

I am interested in turning the mid-coach running light into both a running light and turn signal. These are very useful when changing lanes and you see them on many OTR commercial trailers.

If anyone has done this, please let me know where you are picking up the turn signal lead and how you routed the wire to that light. I probably won’t do it if I can only get the lead in either the front junction block or at the rear brake light. I already figure I will need to replace that amber running light.

TIA

[Wisconsin Retiree]

I did add midship turn signals but I went the time consuming route. I had replaced my front trailer wire junction box and then ran an additional wire loom through the fifth wheel neck and added another access box in the front compartment. Then ran wire looms to each side directional. I also wired in LED flood lights that will come on under trailer 2 ahead of axels and 2 behind so 4 lights will illuminate out around trailer for backing or they will be able to be turned on by a switch when stationary if desired. I have the directionals finished and functional & the wires run for additional lights. Just need to finish installing the additional lights. Here are links for what I used for directionals.

Partsam 2Pcs 6.5" Mid Turn Signal Amber Marker Light Rubber Mount 24 LED w/Reflex Lens Universal Waterproof 6 Inch Oval Led Mid-Ship Marker and Turn Signal Semi Truck Trailer Light https://a.co/d/djr2sUs

Partsam 2Pcs 6" Oval Tail Light Mounting Brackets [L Shaped] [3mm Powder Coated Steel] [Ultra Sturdy] [Versatile Horizontal Mounting] for 6" Oval Taillights On Truck Trailer RV Grommet Flush Mount https://a.co/d/aUVaeG0

[BB_TX]

The front junction box and the rear light assembly are the only termination points. But I believe that wiring goes under the frame and above the belly cover. You could drop the cover near each light and tap into the appropriate wire at that point using splice terminals like the link below (available at hardware stores, home improvement stores, and auto parts store) so you don't have to cut the wires. Don't know how difficult it would be to get the wire up to the lights.


https://www.amazon.com/G%C2%B7PEH-So...yABEgJYk_D_BwE

[Wisconsin Retiree]

The actual wire loom from the pin box junction box runs down the opposite door side (driver's side)of the front compartment. It is encased in that plastic protective covering. If you reach in the corner and look with a light it is accessible.

[Mark7]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

You could drop the cover near each light and tap into the appropriate wire at that point using splice terminals like the link below (available at hardware stores, home improvement stores, and auto parts store) so you don't have to cut the wires. Don't know how difficult it would be to get the wire up to the lights.


https://www.amazon.com/G%C2%B7PEH-So...yABEgJYk_D_BwE

Your kidding about those crimp splicers, right? Those things cause more electrical issues as they age than ANY other type of connector. If you can get to the wire, you can cut it, add your new run in and solder and heat shrink it. Don't forget to put on the piece of heat shrink tubing before you solder your connection!

Aside from that, I was going add side T/S lights some years back but I didn't want the opposite side lighting up as a brake light when I was tuning the other direction. (think about this)...

I even drew up a circuit using a couple of relays to kill the path to the unintended light using the electric brake wire to the relay coil. Never built it though. Never saw it as that big of a need. I could probably find my drawing if anyone is ever interested.

I do have a 30' goosneck trailer I built and rebuilt a couple of times now and I did put side turn signals on that since I was running all new wire and lights anyway. On that trailer I just accept that if I am turning right, the left side T/S is going to light (steady) when I step on the brake pedal.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by Mark7

Your kidding about those crimp splicers, right? Those things cause more electrical issues as they age than ANY other type of connector.
…. .

If I had been kidding I would have put a smiley face. I have used those on two different utility trailers and other applications and never a problem with any of them. Installed correctly I think they work great.

Originally Posted by Mark7

Aside from that, I was going add side T/S lights some years back but I didn't want the opposite side lighting up as a brake light when I was tuning the other direction. (think about this)...
…….

You would need to use a new light fixture with a dual element bulb and a connection to each separate brake light wire. I thought about that.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...RoCAlwQAvD_BwE

[Mark7]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

If I had been kidding I would have put a smiley face. I have used those on two different utility trailers and other applications and never a problem with any of them. Installed correctly I think they work great.


You would need to use a new light fixture with a dual element bulb and a connection to each separate brake light wire. I thought about that

Perhaps you’re ok with those connectors in your climate, Texas correct? In our winters they wouldn’t make it 1season. Had them fail on my Monte (brake connections) and used wire nuts of all things to get me home. We used to find a lot of them on used farm equipment from previous repairs. When things didn’t work right those were the first connectors we looked for. The problem with them is they cut perfectly good insulation on your source wire and have a very small footprint for actual contact on either wire. Left as designed, moisture can get into the connection and ruin it in a very short period of time. They may be good for a temporary emergency repair, but that’s it, Just my opinion.

The issue with the turn signals is with the TV wiring. I am not aware of any, except a HD truck/tractor with a separate wire for brake lights. Even though my Ram has separate amber rear turn signals from the brake lights it combines turn signals with the brake lights at the seven way plug. Turn signals and brake lights on the trailer share the same filament in the fixtures, hence the problem with the unwanted ”brake” light of the other side of the trailer.

[BB_TX]

You are probably right about the climate. We (North TX) typically have only 2-3 days of “ice events” each winter lasting no more than 3-4 days each. And I never take the trailer out in one. They have started using a brine mix on the roadways in the last few years. So it may become more of an issue. Used to be they would just throw a little sand on the bridges and hills and call it a day.

Each side’s turn/brake wire is independent of the other side. So a turn signal on one side would not affect the other side. Brakes would turn on both sides.

[dlowrey]

There now available low temp solder and heat shrink connectors, sorry I don't have a link, on Amazon look for "SolderSeal". These connectors look like a perfect wiring solution. In the past, I have cut the wire, slide on some heat shrink tubing and push it up out of the way, twisted the wires together in-line and soldered. Then slide the heat shrink down the wire to cover the connection. Use a lighter or hot air gun to shrink the tubing. If super concerned about water, I would add a dab of silicon at each end of the heat shrink. The SolderSeal connections mentioned above seem to be a better less labor-intensive solution.