3402RL convertor

[bethandkevin]

2013 3402 RL, I have it at the dealer because the furnace won't come on at all. No pre-blower. They tell me they found corrosion on a connector block at the convertor and it is discontinued and I need to buy the whole convertor. It's 140 miles away from me and I've asked for pictures. Has anyone had a similar issue? Only the furnace seems to be affected and nothing else. I hate to change major components because it generally leads to a waterfall effect down the road.

[twindman]

Seems a little fishy to me. If the convertor is bad, the batteries would be dead and non of the 12V stuff would work. I would want more explanation.

[DQDick]

I agree, if the batteries aren't dead and the AC and the fridge and water heater work then something else is wrong. If your year has a black fuse for the furnance I'd look at replacing that first before I looked for other problems.

[rohrmann]

If all you need is the converter section for your panel, this will be the correct one: https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-P.../dp/B0039SY092


If you need the entire panel, 120 volt AC plus 12 volt DC with the converter section, this will be the correct one: https://www.bestconverter.com/PD4590...ger_p_359.html


It's possible that the converter is not bad, but it is the 12 volt distribution connector bus block that is bad, and that might be why they need to replace the panel. You might contact Progressive Dynamics directly yourself and see if the parts are available. (269) 781-4241

[mlh]

Now wait a minute. You have corrosion on one terminal on your converter and it needs to be replaced. Can’t we clean the corrosion off. Think I’d go see what is happening and take my tow truck, just in case.
Lynwood

[bethandkevin]

So, our dealer, Camping World of Northern Michigan called us back after sending me pictures of the problem and now I fully understand the situation. The "corrosion" he described was really overheated copper wire turned blue with oxidation. I suspect shake, rattle and roll contributed to a loose connection which of course built resistance and heat. It overheated the termination point and that why the furnace had no power. The 12 v portion of the panel has been discontinued they tell me. After looking at the pics, I observed an empty circuit to the far right of the panel. I have asked them to move the furnace to that empty circuit. If they won't do that, I will do it myself or run an inline fuse separately. I know CW has gotten a bad rep with a lot of people, but CWNM has done right by us so far and on previous occasions we have taken her in. They looked at it a full week ahead of my appointment and have been very good, as I said, so far. I told them if they agreed to fix as I asked, go ahead and fix my water heater element(in my mind, as a reward for good service). I appreciate the responses, especially with part links. Makes me miss the forum. I've been away to long and gotten lazy on FB. Using a phone to access it is a major PIA though(no pc here). Because of that, I'm not sure how to post pics here anymore. I did put some on my FB Keystone Montana group post earlier if interested in looking. Thanks again group!

[bethandkevin]

Well I'll be darned, an old dog learned a new trick. Here are some pics.

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by bethandkevin

2013 3402 RL, I have it at the dealer because the furnace won't come on at all. No pre-blower. They tell me they found corrosion on a connector block at the convertor and it is discontinued and I need to buy the whole convertor. It's 140 miles away from me and I've asked for pictures. Has anyone had a similar issue? Only the furnace seems to be affected and nothing else. I hate to change major components because it generally leads to a waterfall effect down the road.

Either DIY or find another dealer, that is a bogus dealer. Even if true that a brass connector is corroded, it's simple enough to repair, no need to replace the converter. Good luck.

[bethandkevin]

Originally Posted by bcrvman

Either DIY or find another dealer, that is a bogus dealer. Even if true that a brass connector is corroded, it's simple enough to repair, no need to replace the converter. Good luck.

I don't consider them bogus at all. The connection is not brass, it's steel and the threads for the screw are stripped. I cannot blame the dealer for offering a solution that brings it back to like new, it's their job to do that. They e diagnosed my problem, which is what I took it there for.

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by bethandkevin

So, our dealer, Camping World of Northern Michigan called us back after sending me pictures of the problem and now I fully understand the situation. The "corrosion" he described was really overheated copper wire turned blue with oxidation. I suspect shake, rattle and roll contributed to a loose connection which of course built resistance and heat. It overheated the termination point and that why the furnace had no power. The 12 v portion of the panel has been discontinued they tell me. After looking at the pics, I observed an empty circuit to the far right of the panel. I have asked them to move the furnace to that empty circuit. If they won't do that, I will do it myself or run an inline fuse separately. I know CW has gotten a bad rep with a lot of people, but CWNM has done right by us so far and on previous occasions we have taken her in. They looked at it a full week ahead of my appointment and have been very good, as I said, so far. I told them if they agreed to fix as I asked, go ahead and fix my water heater element(in my mind, as a reward for good service). I appreciate the responses, especially with part links. Makes me miss the forum. I've been away to long and gotten lazy on FB. Using a phone to access it is a major PIA though(no pc here). Because of that, I'm not sure how to post pics here anymore. I did put some on my FB Keystone Montana group post earlier if interested in looking. Thanks again group!

Might be a good idea to check all the other connections and torque to spec.

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by bethandkevin

I don't consider them bogus at all. The connection is not brass, it's steel and the threads for the screw are stripped. I cannot blame the dealer for offering a solution that brings it back to like new, it's their job to do that. They e diagnosed my problem, which is what I took it there for.

As a lifetime service type guy, I guess my standards are higher. If they are stymied by a stripped screw and didn't notice a spare available then it sounds like they are trying to just sell you unnecessary parts. As a former industrial electrician, I can advise you to cut some of that overheated wire off as the heating changes the characteristics of the metal. Probably an inch will do. Good luck.

[bethandkevin]

Originally Posted by bcrvman

As a lifetime service type guy, I guess my standards are higher. If they are stymied by a stripped screw and didn't notice a spare available then it sounds like they are trying to just sell you unnecessary parts. As a former industrial electrician, I can advise you to cut some of that overheated wire off as the heating changes the characteristics of the metal. Probably an inch will do. Good luck.

I would expect high standards from a person in your profession. Unfortunately, that is not the case everywhere. I don't know why you say they are stymied. They found the cause. I asked if other lugs were found loose and was told no. But I don't expect they were actually checked either. The wire, as seen in the pic, has already been trimmed off. As for seeing the empty lug, I'm not holding that against them. As an ASE certified technician, I've worked with other equally certified techs that I don't consider to be up to my level of expertise and still others above mine. We are all humans of independent thought and don't always see things the same way Thanks for all the input.

[firestation12]

If you didn’t have an open spot to move the furnace wire, I’d consider re-taping the female threads. Judging from the screw, which appears the male threads are intact, the same may be true of the female threads. Noalox paste on the wire can improve the contact.

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by firestation12

If you didn’t have an open spot to move the furnace wire, I’d consider re-taping the female threads. Judging from the screw, which appears the male threads are intact, the same may be true of the female threads. Noalox paste on the wire can improve the contact.

I suspect you meant re-tapped. You could also try inserting several very fine wires in the screw hole first and adding the noalox paste is also a good idea.

[bethandkevin]

Camping World did right by us. Total bill to fix the furnace power issue and the hot water heater element-$379.00. No complaints here. Best part- no salesman called to ask if we wanted to trade her in!

[bethandkevin]

Originally Posted by bethandkevin

Camping World did right by us. Total bill to fix the furnace power issue and the hot water heater element-$379.00. No complaints here. Best part- no salesman called to ask if we wanted to trade her in!

I should have added, all repairs were completed 4days before they originally said they could look at it.