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Old 01-02-2014, 08:30 AM   #1
jlb27537
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LP Frunace question

Hi Guys,

Update. 1/21/14
Service tech came out, tried new board. No change. He ordered a igniter. I called, asked he come back out and check pressures. It is late afternoon, 80 degrees, furnace works perfect. Ck pressure, 8.5 WC. Should be 11 WC. Adjust regulator, maxed out 10.5 WC. Furnace is working. Tech leaves. This morning is 55 degrees, no work. Has got to be pressure related? Ordered a test gauge.
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Problem, furnace will not lite. Thermostat will cause furnace to blow, will not lite and then in about a minute it will time out and shut off. Same thing on both tanks, both tanks have LP in them.

So this morning, it stopped raining and I pulled the outside furnace cover off. The LED that is supposed to either be on or blinking if it sees a fault is off. Thinking nothing is wrong.

OK, turn furnace power switch off and back on. (to reset the board??) Switch over regulator is on right tank and is showing green. I remove tank, it is heavy, so yes it has LP in it. Furnace will not light, just blow. No fault codes. Manually turn supply onto left tank. Furnace lights as normal.

OK. Furnace works on left tank, not on right. Remove right tank, remove pigtail, pigtail will allow flow. Remove 30psi regulator on feed from right tank. About 2 tbls of clear, odor free oil runs out of regulator.

The changeover regulator is a Fairview GR-9984. The left tank is connected directly to this regulator, while the right tank is first feed into a Fairview GR-630 regulator which drops the outlet pressure to 30psi into the other side of the changeover regulator.

I remove/bypass the GR-630 regulator and supply tank pressure to right side of changeover regulator. Furnace works.

So the question. Why is there a 30psi regulator on the curb side tank? My last 5th wheel had both tanks in the same compartment and both tanks connected directly to the changeover regulator.

Not sure I have this thing figured out yet, it has been working with the GR-630 regulator in place, the red/green display has been working, perhaps the oil in the regulator??? but with 150psi of input LP pressure you would have thought that would have blown the oil thru it.
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OK, now it will not work on either tank. Perhaps the oil from the right tank has screwed up the regulator? Calling service guy.

Going to be cold for a few more days, we'll see.

Jim
 
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:59 AM   #2
Irlpguy
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I have the same two Fairview regulators on my 3402RL but have not experienced this problem. Every other RV I have owned with the Auto switchover valve the tanks were both connected directly to it as you say yours were in the past.
The switchover is a 2 stage regulator, so reduces the pressure from the tank to the desired level, I have no idea what the rationale was for the small red regulator since it only affects on tank. If I have a problem with it I will remove it altogether.

When I have experienced oil residue in lines or regulators it has always been colored, not clear and did have an odor. Are you sure that was not water which may have frozen and affected the regulator, too much moisture in the tank on that side perhaps. I would think in a small regulator like that any 2 tbls of liquid would affect the diaphram's operation, that may be the problem.

Will be interesting to see if it will work correctly now the regulator has been drained. Good luck.

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Old 01-02-2014, 10:11 AM   #3
jimcol
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I had a similar problem with the small red regulator on my rig. Furnace would not run on that tank but stove did. Never understood the reason for it so I removed it. Don't remember getting any liquid out of it. Haven't had a problem since removing about 3 years ago. Jim
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:20 AM   #4
jlb27537
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Hi Irlp, nope it for sure was oil and was clear odorless.

Tried it again just now, got a ignition fault LED blink and it did not light on either tank. So probably have a board or electrode issue. I could not hear the clicking sound of igniter, The gas valve did open, could hear the valve click and smell LP.

Tomorrow, a new project. Find mobile service tech that does Atwood warranty repairs. May take the board in and have it tested.

Jim
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:27 PM   #5
Irlpguy
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This is sounding like a flame sensor or thermocouple issue. If you can smell propane and see or hear the ignighter it would appear they are operating. The flame sensor will shut off the propane valve after a short period if no flame occurs. I think on this model the flame sensor, ignighter are combined in one unit.


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Old 01-02-2014, 01:40 PM   #6
jlb27537
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Hi Irlp. I could not hear the ingiter, but I know the gas valve is opening. The igniter and flame sense are the same device.

When it did lite, it did so and continued to burn till I shut it off. So the sense part is working. The ignition part is not sparking or I could not hear it.

Usually these things either work or not. This sometimes thing is making me think. I did get a 3 blink code, so it knows it is broke now. (Ignition lock out)

Jim
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:36 PM   #7
Irlpguy
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Jim these things can drive a fellow to drinking, well at times other than happy hour that is.
I am having trouble with my S&B furnace, it basically does the same thing and they wanted to replace the fan control board, however at $295.00 I want to be sure that is actually the problem. Mine always acts up on the coldest days but "every" time it senses the flame it opens the main valve and runs properly. I think I now know more about the darn thing than the repairman does, they are sometimes parts changers only it seems.

The RV furnace now operates very similar to our home ones, the thermostat calls for heat, the fan comes on for a few seconds at a slower speed to purge any propane from the burner, and then the propane valve opens, at the same time the igniter activates, if no flame is sensed it shuts off the propane valve and the fan, then gives the error message, or that is the theory, could be a faulty igniter, poor connections or gap could be too large or it just might be your control board.

Each time a problem pops up the solution may be one of only a few things, it is hard to determine the "thing" sometimes though. Hope it's not too cold where you are.
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:05 PM   #8
jlb27537
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Yea, the RV is the same. 3 tries and it shuts down.

Will "dink" with it tomorrow. Not to cold today, in S Texas. 50 going down to low 30's tonight. Has been the coldest winter yet. Normally 50-70, but this year not normal.

Jim
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:27 PM   #9
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Had a similar problem with an RV furnace years ago. The propane tank had gotten contaminated with some oil (machine, or?) from the filling process or somehow else, and it had migrated up the line and into the furnace itself. It actually got into and plugged up the solenoid valve on the furnace, so had to have that replaced. Purged/cleaned the line, replaced the tank, and it was fine after that.
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:44 AM   #10
DonandBonnie
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Have you checked the voltage coming to the igniter? Electricity starts the gas flow just before the igniter sparks. There is a safety feature that will not permit the gas to flow if low voltage is sensed. We had this problem in our horse trailer. We found a broken wire in the truck battery charging line. When the voltage on the battery fell, the propane refrigerator quit. The voltage drop to prevent ignition is so slight that motors will continue to operate and appear normal.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:27 PM   #11
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Glad you got it fixed. Would be nice if some part Keystone put on was the best out there not just the lowest bidder.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by TAKPAK

Had a similar problem with an RV furnace years ago. The propane tank had gotten contaminated with some oil (machine, or?) from the filling process or somehow else, and it had migrated up the line and into the furnace itself. It actually got into and plugged up the solenoid valve on the furnace, so had to have that replaced. Purged/cleaned the line, replaced the tank, and it was fine after that.
So next question I would have is once this is fixed, is there something you can put in-line, like an LP dryer, to make sure it doesn't happen again?
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