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Old 01-05-2025, 08:12 PM   #1
rkymntsno
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M.O.C. #34711
Residential Fridge Stopped Cooling on Battery Power

I was winterizing our 2025 385BR with the 440i solar and two lithium batteries. I turned the GE resid fridge on to run antifreeze through. It came on and started cooling for about 20 minutes, got the antifreeze through. And then it shut off but the lights stayed on. Wasn't cooling. I went to the inverter display and shut it off, then back on and it started cooling for about five seconds then shut off again. But the light stayed on. I checked status of the batteries and they were at 95% so that wasn't the issue. Anyone know what's going on? I think there was an error code on the inverter panel but I couldn't stick around and deal with it at the time. Just thought I'd throw it out there to see if anyone wanted to comment on the issue before I talk to the dealership tomorrow.
 
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Old 01-05-2025, 09:26 PM   #2
brycesteiner
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My initial thought is the thermostat is set high and the outdoor temperatures are in the low teens so the refrigerator lights are still on but doesn't need to run - the thermostat doing its job?
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Old 01-05-2025, 10:01 PM   #3
LeftOverParts
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M.O.C. #32230
TS guide with error codes from the manual for a Magnum Dimensions CSW2012 inverter. If yours is a different brand/model, you may have to search for it online.
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Old 01-06-2025, 08:42 AM   #4
rkymntsno
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Originally Posted by brycesteiner View Post
My initial thought is the thermostat is set high and the outdoor temperatures are in the low teens so the refrigerator lights are still on but doesn't need to run - the thermostat doing its job?
Thanks, but no. Was 70 degrees and fridge was set at 37.
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Old 01-06-2025, 11:41 AM   #5
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In my experience with our GE res fridge, if the lights in the fridge are on then it's not the inverter. Does the panel read temps for both the fridge and freezer or does it say OFF. The reason I ask is because I usually turn ours off (press both fridge and freezer temps buttons for several seconds) when I prep it for storage. If it's off then the noise you hear is a fan motor that will cycle depending on humidity. Perhaps if you turn it on and let it sit for 20 minutes to see if the compressor starts running as it should.
BTW - I live somewhere near you with our crazy weather. I drain the fresh water lines and blow everything out with regulated (under 50 psi) compressed air and put some pink antifreeze in the p-traps. I use the compressed air to blow the water out of the fridge water dispenser as well. (You can see a small coil of hose in the back left corner of the fridge where the water dispenser flow is cooled so we run air through until we don't see water in that area anymore.)
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Old 01-06-2025, 12:04 PM   #6
rkymntsno
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Originally Posted by C&P RV View Post
In my experience with our GE res fridge, if the lights in the fridge are on then it's not the inverter. Does the panel read temps for both the fridge and freezer or does it say OFF. The reason I ask is because I usually turn ours off (press both fridge and freezer temps buttons for several seconds) when I prep it for storage. If it's off then the noise you hear is a fan motor that will cycle depending on humidity. Perhaps if you turn it on and let it sit for 20 minutes to see if the compressor starts running as it should.
BTW - I live somewhere near you with our crazy weather. I drain the fresh water lines and blow everything out with regulated (under 50 psi) compressed air and put some pink antifreeze in the p-traps. I use the compressed air to blow the water out of the fridge water dispenser as well. (You can see a small coil of hose in the back left corner of the fridge where the water dispenser flow is cooled so we run air through until we don't see water in that area anymore.)
Thanks Clark! We live in Schertz also, lol! No our GE fridge only has one temp display, fridge, which was 37. I did all this in a hurry and didn't have time to troubleshoot much. I'm probably gonna go back over to the storage and troubleshoot next week after our "cold" snap. I'll be able to leave it running longer and see what's going on. Will put an update here.
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Old 01-12-2025, 08:15 PM   #7
jkxtreme
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If the inverter had an error code, you could have low DC voltage or you are tying to draw more current than the inverter can supply. You should have the option to set the inverter output voltage level from the inverter. Make sure that option is set to provide 120 - 125 volts. Lower voltages will cause the inverter to draw more current when under load.
Try it again and this record the error code, which should be your guide for what to check.
Jump back on this forum to let us know how you make out. Good luck.
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Old 01-13-2025, 07:50 AM   #8
rkymntsno
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Originally Posted by jkxtreme View Post
If the inverter had an error code, you could have low DC voltage or you are tying to draw more current than the inverter can supply. You should have the option to set the inverter output voltage level from the inverter. Make sure that option is set to provide 120 - 125 volts. Lower voltages will cause the inverter to draw more current when under load.
Try it again and this record the error code, which should be your guide for what to check.
Jump back on this forum to let us know how you make out. Good luck.
I'm new to this inverter also. But it turns out the fridge is cooling fine. I just didn't think it was running so I put a thermometer in it and the freezer, both are fine. But unsure about the codes the inverter panel are showing....
SDL.....AL1.....P51 or PS1
Maybe I'm reading a fault but it's actually not a fault???
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Old 01-13-2025, 07:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by rkymntsno View Post
I'm new to this inverter also. But it turns out the fridge is cooling fine. I just didn't think it was running so I put a thermometer in it and the freezer, both are fine. But unsure about the codes the inverter panel are showing....
SDL.....AL1.....P51 or PS1
Maybe I'm reading a fault but it's actually not a fault???
Looks like everything is normal. The key for the various codes is below.
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Old 01-13-2025, 08:02 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by C&P RV View Post
Looks like everything is normal. The key for the various codes is below.
Thanks for the help!!!!!
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Old 01-13-2025, 10:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkymntsno View Post
Thanks for the help!!!!!
The factory inverter settings are PS1 which disables the power button on the remote panel. You can program to PS4 to enable it. Comes in handy not having to exit the trailer and use the battery cut off.
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Old 01-13-2025, 02:04 PM   #12
rkymntsno
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Originally Posted by Foldbak View Post
The factory inverter settings are PS1 which disables the power button on the remote panel. You can program to PS4 to enable it. Comes in handy not having to exit the trailer and use the battery cut off.
Thanks for that! Probably just enough info to get me in trouble with the inverter!
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Old 01-13-2025, 02:06 PM   #13
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Thanks for posting. Never knew what the codes meant on the remote panel. Saved a picture of the codes for future reference.
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