Norcold Refrigerator - Montana Owners Club

ltoews · 07-03-2015, 07:43 AM

We have a Norcold 12 cu ft refrigerator. Until recently, the freezer and refrigerator have been cooling properly. The last couple of days, the temperature in the refrigerator has risen to around 50 degrees (a little cooler on the top shelf), while the freezer has been around 20 degrees. The outside temperature in southern Utah has been just above 100 degrees, but I do not think that has any effect since the freezer temperature is acceptable. We have been in 100 degrees many times previously and the refrigerator temps have always been sufficiently cold. We have run the refrigerator on electric and LP, but that does not seem to make a difference. Also, we have defrosted the freezer and the setting is on the coldest. We also checked the seals on both doors and they appear to be okay.

Does anyone have any ideas how to lower the temperature or what the problem might be?

Thanks, Larry and Sandy

steves · 07-03-2015, 08:00 AM

Look at the right side of the refrig, top shelf, you will see white fins with a clip attached. Push the clip up to get colder and down for warmer. Hope that works for you.

WeBeFulltime · 07-03-2015, 09:41 AM

The cooling unit could be on its way out. It appears that there have been many problems with the 12 cf Dometic and Norcold. Have you checked the rear of the unit (remove outside cover) to see if its visually leaking or unusual odor?

Fordplus5er · 07-03-2015, 10:31 AM

Pull the outside "vent" cover off and check for any leakage or some kind of an ammonia smell or odd odors. Maybe unplug the power cord where the vent is and see if that resets anything. Ours went on the fritz this past weekend, after a super storm, but it was due to a recall box failure (1999-2010 models I think), which Norcold graciously agreed to replace free of charge.

Art-n-Marge · 07-03-2015, 03:39 PM

When I had a problem like this I moved the sensor wire or repositioned the fridge contents. It is important NOT to overstuff an RV fridge. Ability to circulate air is critical. I've seen fans that can be installed in the fridge part of the box, but I don't use one since space is a premium.

The fact the freezer is that cold means the fridge is probably working. The other part to check, is that the rear of your freezer is not iced over. I've also had that problem a couple of times, so defrosting is a regular routine for us as full-timers. Our fridge has 5 coldness settings and found setting 4 works the best for us. Your setting may vary.

jlb27537 · 07-03-2015, 03:51 PM

Larry, are the external fans working? Do you have room to add a fan to the back of your frig, like a 4" from W/Mart to blow up and try and remove the heat from the back area of the frig?

Jim

ltoews · 07-10-2015, 07:16 AM

Thanks to all for the replies. After moving the sensor up just a bit, I wanted to let the refrigerator run for awhile to reach its new operating temperature. The sensor was approx. 1 1/4" from the top of the fin and is now about 5/8" from the top of the fin. I contacted Norcold and they said the sensor should be on the 2nd fin from the right and 1 1/2" down (I'm assuming to the middle of the sensor). Our refrigerator temperature is now about 38 degrees with the freezer about 14 degrees. The Owners Manual does not have any information on the sensor and the agent at Norcold said they do not have any information he could send me. Really? I asked about replacing the door seals and he said the seals are not replaceable and that the whole door would need to be replaced. What freezer/refrigerator temperatures do others keep theirs set at?

rloechel · 07-11-2015, 09:07 AM

Hope you don't mind me piggy-backing on your question.

Need some info on moving the sensor. I have located the sensor, and it is about 5" from the top. Suspect that is why my fridge is running about 42 degrees set at the highest setting. I tried to move the sensor, but was unsuccessful. There is some ice on the fins that the sensor is attached to. That may mean that the sensor clip is either frozen in place or the ice is preventing me from sliding the sensor up. That said, ice build up is not significant. And don't want to exert too much force on the sensor slide.

Any suggestions?

Tks in advance.

Rodger

PackerFan · 07-11-2015, 11:29 AM

ltoews: Did you leave the sensor at the new position or move it back to what the guy from Norcold told you?

ltoews · 07-11-2015, 04:34 PM

There are a few things to cover in this reply.
(1) I removed the cover outside and everything seems to be normal, no leaks or unusual odor.
(2) We had the refrigerator checked over in Jan 2015 by RV Traders in Mesa, AZ and at that time, I asked about adding fans. They said the ones already installed were working adequately.
(3) rloechel, Our fins were frosted over and the sensor must have been frozen to the fin. We turned the refrigerator off for about an hour to let it defrost and then I could move the sensor.
(4) I left the sensor at the new position. We adjusted the temperature number on the door from 9 to 5. For now, I will monitor the refrigerator and freezer temps and make adjustments as needed.

JandC · 07-12-2015, 03:23 AM

My "Nevercold" probably hasn't been right since day one. My freezer will stay in the teens for anywhere from a few days to two weeks. Then I will have a period of time where it will get up to anywhere from 20 degrees to 28 degrees. That seems to go on for a day or two and then it will start working better. Sometimes if I completely turn it off for several minutes and then turn it back on it will start working better.

My sensor in the frig part has been located correctly on the fins and has not been moved. I keep it set on 5. I have experienced these problems when the outside temperatures are 35 degrees and when they are 100 degrees. I guess I am just hoping that it completely goes out while I am under my extended warranty.

DarMar · 07-12-2015, 04:33 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by JandC

My "Nevercold" probably hasn't been right since day one. My freezer will stay in the teens for anywhere from a few days to two weeks. Then I will have a period of time where it will get up to anywhere from 20 degrees to 28 degrees. That seems to go on for a day or two and then it will start working better. Sometimes if I completely turn it off for several minutes and then turn it back on it will start working better.

My sensor in the frig part has been located correctly on the fins and has not been moved. I keep it set on 5. I have experienced these problems when the outside temperatures are 35 degrees and when they are 100 degrees. I guess I am just hoping that it completely goes out while I am under my extended warranty.

Sounds like particles are floating around in the sealed system. Perhaps we should keep our fingers crossed for a complete blockage/failure to happen sooner rather than later!!!

rloechel · 07-12-2015, 10:27 AM

Tks for the feedback,

Rodger

JandC · 07-13-2015, 01:24 AM

DarMar, I think that was suggested last year when this topic was being posted on. I am no appliance expert (actually I am only able to turn it on and off or get a beer out of it), but what you said sure makes sense to me. It would account for the behavior.

rohrmann · 07-14-2015, 01:24 PM

After almost 1 1/2 months without a fridge, we finally got our Norcold 1210 working again, with the replacement of the cooling unit, the second replacement in less than six months. The first replacement was covered by our extended warranty, less several non-covered things. That failure was a plugged system. This replacement was only covered by Norcold for the part, no labor, and they failed to ship it on time to our previous location, so we had to pay to forward it to Las Vegas, where we are now, so over an additional $200 to ship it here. This failure was a leak, and when the fridge was pulled out a laid down inside the trailer, the techs had to evacuate due to the ammonia leaking out. It took over a half hour until the system discharged and we could air out the trailer. In the photo, it shows the leak where a brace is welded to the coils. The new unit came with a paper warning that the brace can not be used to handle the cooling unit, probably due to this failure. So, we are out a bit under $900 for this repair, but are thankful to have a working unit again, and an ARP protection device will soon be wired up, with an additional fan.

[/URL]

rloechel · 07-16-2015, 03:44 PM

3) rloechel, Our fins were frosted over and the sensor must have been frozen to the fin. We turned the refrigerator off for about an hour to let it defrost and then I could move the sensor.

Turn off for about an hour,and was able to move the sensor. Tks for the suggestion.

Rodger

You may also like: