When to Turn 'ON' Winterize Switch

[jfbritt]

I am winterizing my Montana Mountaineer 5th Wheel. I am using the compressed air method. The Convenience Center has a 'Winterize' switch. I understand this switch is use to push anti-freeze into the water lines via the water pump. With the anti-freeze method the 'Winterize' switch is turned to the 'ON' position at the start of the process.


I am using the compressed air method. Does the 'Winterized' switch need to be switched 'ON' when using this method? If so, when. Can it be left in the 'OFF' position?

[RMcNeal]

When I use compressed air to blow out our lines, I don't use the winterize switch at all. It is supposed to put the pump draw to the winterize port so it will draw anti freeze into the system. I do turn on the water heater bypass and drain the water heater though.

[BB_TX]

I never used the air method. But it would seem you should also use the winterize port, after using the fresh water port, to blow air thru the pump and clear water from it.

And then blow some air thru the black tank flush port to clear any water left in it after flushing.

[Maks]

I've never used air to blow out my lines in the fall. Have only ever used RV antifreeze and the "Winterizing" function using the water pump. And yes...... my spouse complains about smell every time we use the trailer after winterizing while the system flushes itself out.

Was never sure what the max air pressure should be used. Didn't want to damage anything including the water pump.

Anyone know what a safe air pressure should be? I have a high volume air compressor so that's not a problem. But pressure......?????

[mhs4771]

Approx 45 to 50 PSI max. That's the same pressure I use when I winterize the house. Used that on the RV, but haven't done the RV in years now as we take it somewhere warm for the Winter.

[shovelhead86]

Best winterize method I have found is to drag the monty to Texas, Fla., Az or similar.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by shovelhead86

Best winterize method I have found is to drag the monty to Texas, Fla., Az or similar.

It got down to -4 F just north of Dallas last winter. Don’t know how cold in the valley.

[carlrx7]

FYI, be careful that the shop compressor does not push oil and rusty water mist into your water lines.

I use my tire pump that is oil-less with my water pressure regulator. I push air through if it sits more than a month, never mess with any of the knobs.

[RMcNeal]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

I never used the air method. But it would seem you should also use the winterize port, after using the fresh water port, to blow air thru the pump and clear water from it.

And then blow some air thru the black tank flush port to clear any water left in it after flushing.

I've never tried that. Can you blow air through the pump? I thought there was a check valve to prevent backflow?
Anyway, I forgot about the black tank flush, but yes I also blow it out. I have removed the vacuum breaker and put a backflow preventer on the outside hookup in the convenience center.

[RMcNeal]

Originally Posted by carlrx7

FYI, be careful that the shop compressor does not push oil and rusty water mist into your water lines.

I use my tire pump that is oil-less with my water pressure regulator. I push air through if it sits more than a month, never mess with any of the knobs.

Good point! I use my Viair pump with a small regulator I bought on Amazon set to 40 psi. I do open each water valve until only air comes out, even the outside shower port.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by RMcNeal

I've never tried that. Can you blow air through the pump? I thought there was a check valve to prevent backflow?
..............

The check valve is to prevent water from flowing back into the fresh water tank after the pump has built up pressure in the lines.

Someone posted a very good diagram of the water piping system on here some time ago. Maybe they will repost it and I can remember to save it this time.

[RMcNeal]

If it's the one I'm thinking of, it was Bob Rhorman. I thought I had saved it but can't find it now.

[MandK]

Winterized ours just the other day as we won't be using it until we leave for warmer weather near Christmas. I followed the instructions in the book and several of the winterizing posts here and things went smoothly, plus I'm not a total newbie to winterizing.
When the air was hooked up to the city water and I was blowing everything out, I also opened the water heater bypass valve momentarily (I had the water heater drained and valve in bypass mode while blowing out all the trailer lines) and an additional 1 or two cups of water came out of the water heater so I'm assuming there is water in the lines involved with the bypass valving. I haven't read anywhere to do that and maybe it isn't necessary, but just an FYI.

[RKassl]

Originally Posted by shovelhead86

Best winterize method I have found is to drag the monty to Texas, Fla., Az or similar.

Seems like every tear there is a response like this one.

[MGVenne]

Don’t forget to open your washing machine water valves if you have them.

[ShaneGreen]

Back in the 80's I was an RV Tech in Northern Illinois where we would have weeks of temps below zero and months below freezing. A few things have changed, there were few washing machines, no dishwashers or ice makers. Pex was also new to the RV industry and not seen much, but it's predecessor was really brittle. We would winterize over 500 campers at just one of the campgrounds, never knew how many total around the state. When you're winterizing that many, doing it wrong gets really, really expensive in a hurry.


Our crews would blow out everything first with air and then add anti-freeze. We took the time to blow them out because anti-freeze WILL freeze. And the more water that is mixed with it, the sooner it freezes. Faucets and valves have small areas where the anti-freeze and water have a hard time mixing. . .they will freeze pretty quick and cost a lot to repair. So blowing out the lines was our first line of defense.



One winter a major anti-freeze supplier had delivery issues and we had to blow out hundreds of RVs without anti-freeze. We only added a splash to each p-trap and toilet and went back later to add the anti-freeze. A week long delay turned into months. A lot of campers sat through most of winter without anti-freeze in sub-freezing temperatures. The supplier was going to reimburse a portion of any damage, so we tracked which ones were affected. We were shocked that they didn't show a higher rate of damage come Spring.


I'm not suggesting you don't use anti-freeze, just trying to stress how effective blowing out the lines can be.

[Bill and Lisa]

I have blown out the rig for probably the last 10 years.

I use 40 psi from a sears craftsman compressor.

One reason I use air is that behind the wall in the basement I installed a dual water filter system and the cartridges do not react well with anti-freeze. Air forced in through the city supply nipple blows the filter housing clear and no issue.

As others have said, don't forget washer lines (even if you don't have a washer), outside shower and drain and remove the anode from the water heater.

I have never thought to blow the black flush line but have not paid a price for that oversight so the line may drain well enough on it's own.

I do add antifreeze in the p-traps (including the drain line for the washer and put some antifreeze into the bottom of each tank. I also put an inch or so covering the ball vale in the toilet.

I burp the water pump while blowing down the main lines but blowing directly using the winterize switch/connection should work just fine as well.

[TWP723]

I hpook the compressor up to the city connection and open all faucets, including LP drains. On newer rigs, 60psi is safe. I never use the pump so no need to winterize it.

[scottz]

Originally Posted by jfbritt

I am winterizing my Montana Mountaineer 5th Wheel. I am using the compressed air method. The Convenience Center has a 'Winterize' switch. I understand this switch is use to push anti-freeze into the water lines via the water pump. With the anti-freeze method the 'Winterize' switch is turned to the 'ON' position at the start of the process.


I am using the compressed air method. Does the 'Winterized' switch need to be switched 'ON' when using this method? If so, when. Can it be left in the 'OFF' position?

No, leave it off. On my unit, the "winterize" valve simply switches the water pump intake from the "fresh water tank" to the "Freeze Guard Winterizing System" (antifreeze intake port) to allow the introduction of anti freeze via the "Freeze Guard" port.

If you are going to use the air system, first bypass and drain your water heater. Then connect your air line to the "City Water" connection (about 40psi max) and open each faucet in turn. Don't forget the toilet, laundry connections, low point connections, etc. Also flip the "fresh water tank power fill" valve to blow the water out of the line coming from your fresh water tank. Don't forget to pour some antifreeze down your drains to fill the traps. This is just the basics, develop your own comprehensive check list. The valve labels will vary on units of different years. I'm not sure how to make sure the water is blown out of the water pump or accumulator (if you have one). Therefore, I use both methods; blow the water out then use anti freeze; takes me about 2 gallons and 30 minutes.

[scottz]

Here is a rough drawing of my convenience center plumbing; yours will vary.