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Old 07-09-2024, 08:20 PM   #1
brycesteiner
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Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Antwerp or Corbin
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Replace Water Heater/tank

For the first time I filled up with water the 2001 3280 RL RV we are remodeling. Several things I noticed and one big one came to light. I'm saving the biggest problem for last

1. Shower drain is leaking in the basement. Not sure how to tighten the coupling up that is 5" inside the hole.
2. Filled up the fresh water tank and I could hear when it was about full by the sound (like at the gas pump filing your vehicle). But when it was full it started leaking out the underbody cover. Is that where the overflow is? It stopped pretty soon after I turned the water off.
3. BIG PROBLEM: The water heater started girgling it seemed okay after I thought I got the air out and then it started doing it again. I looked inside the louvre vent and could see water pouring out. pretty quick.

https://youtu.be/y1Ku-qBqTbU

Quite a bit of water flowed out on to the furnace before getting this catch container in. I saw coming out the side of the RV. Not good.
I drained the water heater and shut off the water lines to it and put a fan on it.

Question: Have you had this problem? It looks to me like this is rusted out.
Would you change to a tankless heater? They seem to have good reviews on amazon.
 
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Old 07-09-2024, 09:43 PM   #2
Carl n Susan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brycesteiner View Post
For the first time I filled up with water the 2001 3280 RL RV we are remodeling. Several things I noticed and one big one came to light. I'm saving the biggest problem for last

1. Shower drain is leaking in the basement. Not sure how to tighten the coupling up that is 5" inside the hole.
You can access the P trap drain from the pass through compartment. Remove the back wall (6 screws or so) and crawl in to access the drain (amongst all the wires and plumbing)

Quote:
2. Filled up the fresh water tank and I could hear when it was about full by the sound (like at the gas pump filing your vehicle). But when it was full it started leaking out the underbody cover. Is that where the overflow is? It stopped pretty soon after I turned the water off.
The overflow line is from the tank to the access panel at the rear on the drivers side where you fill the tank. If you are getting water out the bottom, either the line is disconnected/broken or there is a hole in the tank. The fresh water tank is pretty stout (compared to the waste tanks) so it is most likely a hose/connection issue. You might try removing the fill panel where the hose connects to ensure it is there. Also, there is a carpet covered box inside the coach at the rear on the drivers side. Remove the screws and open the box to check on the hose there. But most likely you will be required dropping the coroplast to figure it out.

Quote:
3. BIG PROBLEM: The water heater started girgling it seemed okay after I thought I got the air out and then it started doing it again. I looked inside the louvre vent and could see water pouring out. pretty quick. Question: Have you had this problem? It looks to me like this is rusted out.
Would you change to a tankless heater? They seem to have good reviews on amazon.
I am no help on which to go with. But a couple of members have posted about installing a tankless water heater. I am sure a Search would find those posts
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Old 07-10-2024, 06:10 AM   #3
Daryles
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1. Shower drain. Is it possible they cross treaded the collar that tightens the pipe together? If so you will need to unscrew it and get it straight. When you do this put a little PTFE plumbers paste around the mating surface of the pipes to help seal it before reassembling. To tighten the collar a "Basin" wrench would be ideal. Unfortunately if yours is like mine the collar is recessed in the floor. I've seen YouTube videos where someone used a box end wrench and a strap through the eye of the wrench to make a strap wrench. This might be thin enough to work to tighten the collar.
2. As Carl mentioned, you will need to drop the coroplast to see whats going on. Older model rigs (<2018) had two piece tanks (a tub and a lid glued on). These are known to split. Newer tanks are one piece. I dont know if a newer type tank would fit if thats what you need. Hopefully the vent tube just came loose (easy fix).
3. Water heater. Any chance it froze over the winter and split? You will need to pull it out to see whats going on behind there. An Endoscope that plugs into your phone would be handy for looks into your water leaks without too much disassemblely.

USB C Endoscope for iPhone, OTG Android Phone, 5.5 mm Borescope Inspection Snake Camera Waterproof, 16.4 Ft Semi-Rigid Cord with LED Lights, Compatible with IOS https://a.co/d/05rgcsow

https://youtube.com/shorts/nSMyb_RqD...Pm5UxTvaQ0I4TK
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Old 07-11-2024, 06:01 AM   #4
brycesteiner
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Quote:
You can access the P trap drain from the pass through compartment. Remove the back wall (6 screws or so) and crawl in to access the drain (amongst all the wires and plumbing)
That was excellent info. I had no problem reaching from up top. Somebody previously had known it leaked and just put caulk around the drain. Obviously that wasn't a good fix.
I took it apart and cleaned up all the old plumber's putty (they used it at the compression fitting too). Nothing looked cross threaded and once the old putty and caulk was cleaned off it looked good.
I put it back together, instead of using plumber's putty between the top of the drain and the bottom of the shower, I used butyl tape. It seals well outside, so why not at drains? It's also smooth and even so I just folded it in half and put it around it. Seemed to seal nicely. I then put on a gasket under where the collar tightens, which it didn't have before.
So far, nothing seems to leak and looks a lot better.
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Old 07-19-2024, 05:48 AM   #5
brycesteiner
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I found the source of my freshwater leak:

It appears someone had to tried to calk around the hole. Not sure quite yet how to replace. Anyone else replace theirs?
Looks to be about 3' long. I assume I drop the coro underneath.
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