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Old 09-04-2020, 11:40 AM   #21
dallasrules
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inverter question +

I do have an 8K window ac unit I can use, and I do have a generator.

The system I am looking at only has a 2k/4k inverter. How do I know if that is enough?

I want to build something on the ground to put the whole setup in. It comes with a 70amp breaker box. Can I run a 50amp plug off that breaker box and plug up the rv with the shore power cord, or do I need to wire it differently? If I can plug it in, how does that effect the power setup that comes in the trailer (battery and whatever charges it?) I am still unclear on how this part of the system would work? Also, how is the generator used to charge up the batteries? How does it fit into the system as a whole?

I guess I still need to get a battery monitor for this setup also.
 
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Old 09-04-2020, 03:11 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by dallasrules View Post
I do have an 8K window ac unit I can use, and I do have a generator.

The system I am looking at only has a 2k/4k inverter. How do I know if that is enough?

I want to build something on the ground to put the whole setup in. It comes with a 70amp breaker box. Can I run a 50amp plug off that breaker box and plug up the rv with the shore power cord, or do I need to wire it differently? If I can plug it in, how does that effect the power setup that comes in the trailer (battery and whatever charges it?) I am still unclear on how this part of the system would work? Also, how is the generator used to charge up the batteries? How does it fit into the system as a whole?

I guess I still need to get a battery monitor for this setup also.
Ok, your confused on a few things....

The 70 amp breaker is just a catastrophic fuse....it's not a 70 amp breaker box. So set that aside for now.

Yes, you can set it up on the ground and plug into it like an RV park. You can buy at home depot an RV pedestal in both 20 amp, 30 amp and 50 amp outlets. Your inverter will wire directly to the pedestal. On my property I have a combination 50 amp plug and 20 amp plug. Both with their own breakers. But I also have a 50 amp generator that can produce that much power.

The main item you need to be concerned with is that 2000w inverter. That will produce only 18 amps at 110volts. (2000/110=18.18)

So that is what you would be producing in amps, which is basically just your standard outlet. So a 30 amp or 50 amp pedestal won't do you any good as your inverter can not produce that power.

A 8000btu window AC draws about 750watts @ 110v that is almost 7 amps. Leaving you with about 11 amps to play with for the other demands in your RV.

Now the batteries in your system store energy, so you can run things at times when you can not make power, example at night for solar.

The generator and the solar panels both have the same function....they produce power. Solar panels can't work at night, so you need something to get power from, hence the power from the batteries. The midnight charge controller in your system is how the solar panels store their energy into your batteries. Your onboard converter will do a similar function of charging your batteries when using your generator.

Connecting your system that you mentioned above is very easy and considered by most a hobbiest function. No need for electrical degree. Positive and negative wires, hard to mess up. With a few fuses and breakers sprinkled in between.

The Achilles heal in your system will be the inverter. But with learning to manage your power it will be a good starter system. @ $1500 I would say that's a decent purchase.
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Old 09-13-2020, 10:24 PM   #23
dallasrules
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I wanted to thank everyone for their inputs and suggestions. The links were very helpful and I feel like I am begging to get a handle on the whole setup.I have found some live resources and feel more confident that I can ask intelligent questions. I am not 100% there yet, but I am getting much closer. You are all a wealth of knowledge and I am thankful for this forum.
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:10 AM   #24
dallasrules
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Update

Here is my latest status in my solar adventure. If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please chime in.

What I want to do:
I want to build a solar setup that will be the primary source of power to my RV. I want this setup to be self contained in a box with the panels attached to the top. It will sit 20 to 30 feet away from the RV. i want to be able to plug the rv into the setup for power, and disconnect it when not in use. We will mostly only be using the rv on the weekends. I also have a generator that I can use to charge the batteries, or run some ac next summer.

Here is what I have:
Cotek 2000w pure sine inverter
Morningstar TS-45 solar controller
(4) Infinuim 250w panels (12v or 24v?)
(4) vmax SLR125 AGM batteries
Square D 70 amp breaker box with 40amp breaker
(2) 70' 10 age photovoltaic wire
#2 wires for connecting batteries
2003 Montana 3655FL 5th wheel trailer (50 amp)

Here is what I think I need:
MC4 connectors for the solar pannels
fuse or beaker coming out of solar charger (size?)
negative ground bar, possibly a positive one also for connections
inline fuse for + battery terminal connection
4 guage wire and connectors to connect components if system is 24v
A way to power rv ac from inverter. I think I can run the inverter to the beaker box to an rv plug and use the rv shore power cord to plug in to that. I can turn off rv breakers for what I don't want to run.
I need to disconnect the converter and battery that are in the rv
I need to connect the rv dc fusebox to the solar battery bank. Can I run another cord and plug for this? what size would I need? Is power drop going to be a problem for dc over the 20 to 30 feet to the trailer. I have either a 6 or 8 guage cord I can use.
Battery monitor. I would like to be able to monitor the batteries from inside the rv, so something with bluetooth or a remote display would be preferable.
I need a way to charge th battery bank from my generator. Do i need another converter for this? If so, where does it fit in the system?
If panels are 24v, I need to know hoe to connect my batteries. I know I connect 2 in series to get 24v. That would give me 2 sets of 24v, but then how do I connect those in parallel? Also, if I add batteries in the future, do I have to add them in Pairs?
I need to know how to connect my panels. if the are 24v, do they all just connect in parallel?
If my solar panels are not 24v, will my solar charger still work? or will it work if they are 24v?
I need to know how to configure the solar charger
if my battery bank is 24v, is there anything neccessary to connect it back to my 12v rv system?
brackets to connect my solar panels to the (frame/box). I plan to build the box to house the system, but would be open to buying something if the price was reasonable.
am I wrong in any of the above information, or am I missing anything?
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:51 AM   #25
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You may need an electrician.
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:59 AM   #26
dallasrules
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You may need an electrician.
I'm not sure what thats going to gain me. First, it would have to be an electrician with solar knowledge. plus we live in a fairly remote area. I think its easier for me to just gain the knowledge to do it myself. Plus cheaper.
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Old 09-14-2020, 11:15 AM   #27
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Good sources
FB groups, DIY RV Solar Systems, RVElectricity.

1) regarding remote panels. Consider wire gauge for DC voltage drop.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...on_chartlg.jpg
2) Waterproof quick disconnect from RV to the remote panels.
3) gauge of wire between batteries AND to/from 2000W inverter and batteries.
I had a 2000w inverter with 4 gauge wire. It is a 2' run from the batteries to the inverter. Tested 1500W microwave for 5 minutes. Worked fine BUT the wire reached 134°F in that 5 minutes. I upgraded the wiring to 0 gauge.
You will need circuit breakers (disconnects) between the solar panels and the MPPT, MPPT to batteries, batteries to inverter.

ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE SOLAR PANELS FROM THE MPPT BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE BATTERIES.

I am going to wire my forward AC to a switch so I can manually select to run it from the inverter OR the OEM circuit breaker panel. Must be careful not to make a back feed or ground loop.
You will need a "soft start" for your AC.
I have a Victron BMV-712 bluetooth battery monitor. Can monitor it from the house 100' away.
You may want to look at a Victron Multiplus. It combines power from your batteries or shore or PV to run what you are trying to run.
I will Probably go that way eventually.
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Old 09-14-2020, 11:59 AM   #28
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What will an electrician gain you? It may keep you from electrocution and or a fire. I understand DIY but getting advice from strangers on line for assembling something that can kill you is worth what you paid for it. But, with sincerity, good luck.
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Old 09-16-2020, 05:53 AM   #29
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My question is... you say 8000 for a power company temporary connection. Then what? What are you planning for after the need for the temporary connection is gone? Are you going off grid? Full time or continued regular weekends. Full time... build the whole solar set up now (and take advantage of the 26% federal tax credit 22% in 2021 then its gone)... huge battery bank, large solar array and a genny for back up. Weekender... get a suitable inverter generator. ~4500 watts should run an A/C, your electric load and charge batteries. Small solar array should be enough to charge batteries when not running the genny, if you "weekend only" the solar will top off your batteries when you are not there. YMMV as they say... it depends. Do an energy audit first to determine your needs. Do not cheap out on hardware. JHMO.
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Old 09-23-2020, 03:46 PM   #30
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Unless your a complete buffoon, hooking up a black to black, or a red to red wire is a DIY project. If you had to call an electrician everytime you changed the 12v batteries in your truck, where would you be? "+ to +", "- to -".

There, I just saved you two years of college engineering expenses! I'll have to charge you for the rest of my lessons where I teach how/when to hook up "+ to -" and what wire size to use (hint: Cuban cigars). 😉

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Old 09-24-2020, 07:06 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by dallasrules View Post
I'm not sure what thats going to gain me. First, it would have to be an electrician with solar knowledge. plus we live in a fairly remote area. I think its easier for me to just gain the knowledge to do it myself. Plus cheaper.
It’s going to gain you a few more years on your life. Electricity is nothing to mess with if you don’t know 100% what you’re doing. By the number of questions that you’re asking & the content of those questions, no offense, but you’re not ready for this type of project on your own. A 2000 watt inverter isn’t nearly enough to run an RV air conditioner unit by itself, let alone with any other loads. Like has been said before, you need to figure out /how much/ energy you will be using, then figure out how much generation capacity you need, either solar or fossil fueled generator. Keep DC wire runs short & leave the longer runs for A/C wiring. A/C & higher voltages allow for less voltage drop & smaller wire gauges to be used, thereby keeping costs down. I think you’re going to find out that by the time you build what you really need to have to live comfortably for any amount of time, that $8k isn’t going to look so bad, especially when you consider the time that you will spend building it, figuring out what you did wrong, changing this or that & the grey hairs you will acquire during the process. With the utility company’s connection, you can just plug in, do whatever you need to do & enjoy your time. No worries about gas for the generator on a cloudy day, maintaining batteries, cleaning solar panels, etc, etc. Time is money & we’re only given so much time on this planet. Spend the time with your family. That is something that money cannot buy.
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:25 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallasrules View Post
Here is my latest status in my solar adventure. If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please chime in.

What I want to do:
I want to build a solar setup that will be the primary source of power to my RV. I want this setup to be self contained in a box with the panels attached to the top. It will sit 20 to 30 feet away from the RV. i want to be able to plug the rv into the setup for power, and disconnect it when not in use. We will mostly only be using the rv on the weekends. I also have a generator that I can use to charge the batteries, or run some ac next summer.

Here is what I have:
Cotek 2000w pure sine inverter
Morningstar TS-45 solar controller
(4) Infinuim 250w panels (12v or 24v?)
(4) vmax SLR125 AGM batteries
Square D 70 amp breaker box with 40amp breaker
(2) 70' 10 age photovoltaic wire
#2 wires for connecting batteries
2003 Montana 3655FL 5th wheel trailer (50 amp)

Here is what I think I need:
MC4 connectors for the solar pannels
fuse or beaker coming out of solar charger (size?)
negative ground bar, possibly a positive one also for connections
inline fuse for + battery terminal connection
4 guage wire and connectors to connect components if system is 24v
A way to power rv ac from inverter. I think I can run the inverter to the beaker box to an rv plug and use the rv shore power cord to plug in to that. I can turn off rv breakers for what I don't want to run.
I need to disconnect the converter and battery that are in the rv
I need to connect the rv dc fusebox to the solar battery bank. Can I run another cord and plug for this? what size would I need? Is power drop going to be a problem for dc over the 20 to 30 feet to the trailer. I have either a 6 or 8 guage cord I can use.
Battery monitor. I would like to be able to monitor the batteries from inside the rv, so something with bluetooth or a remote display would be preferable.
I need a way to charge th battery bank from my generator. Do i need another converter for this? If so, where does it fit in the system?
If panels are 24v, I need to know hoe to connect my batteries. I know I connect 2 in series to get 24v. That would give me 2 sets of 24v, but then how do I connect those in parallel? Also, if I add batteries in the future, do I have to add them in Pairs?
I need to know how to connect my panels. if the are 24v, do they all just connect in parallel?
If my solar panels are not 24v, will my solar charger still work? or will it work if they are 24v?
I need to know how to configure the solar charger
if my battery bank is 24v, is there anything neccessary to connect it back to my 12v rv system?
brackets to connect my solar panels to the (frame/box). I plan to build the box to house the system, but would be open to buying something if the price was reasonable.
am I wrong in any of the above information, or am I missing anything?
You need a larger solar charger. 70-85amp. You have 1200w of solar and 540w of charger listed.

If you're using an mppt charger you don't need to worry about panel voltage. If they have a pmax voltage of less than 20, I would hook them up in series parallel.

Everything in your box will create heat. Make sure you have ventilation or the inverter and solar chargers may overheat.

Get a Victron BMV712 Smart. It's a blutooth battery monitor and it uses a great app. If you get a Victron 150/70 or 150/85 charger, you can network them together and monitor everything from your phone or laptop.
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Old 12-04-2020, 07:40 AM   #33
kowbra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallasrules View Post
Here is my latest status in my solar adventure. If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please chime in.

What I want to do:
I want to build a solar setup that will be the primary source of power to my RV. I want this setup to be self contained in a box with the panels attached to the top. It will sit 20 to 30 feet away from the RV. i want to be able to plug the rv into the setup for power, and disconnect it when not in use. We will mostly only be using the rv on the weekends. I also have a generator that I can use to charge the batteries, or run some ac next summer.

Here is what I have:
Cotek 2000w pure sine inverter
...
(4) vmax SLR125 AGM batteries
...
2003 Montana 3655FL 5th wheel trailer (50 amp)

Here is what I think I need:
...
A way to power rv ac from inverter. I think I can run the inverter to the beaker box to an rv plug and use the rv shore power cord to plug in to that. I can turn off rv breakers for what I don't want to run.
...
am I wrong in any of the above information, or am I missing anything?
As others have noted; there are concerns running your AC from the 2000 watt inverter. Perhaps you may be able to do this if you add a softstart to the AC, such as from here, https://www.softstartusa.com/ .

I believe most solar system designers suggest a minimum of 3000 watt inverter to run AC. The new Montana's with their Super Solar Flex package use a 3000 watt inverter, and have included softstarts and new high efficiency AC units.

Also, with the battery bank you have, it will be important to calculate your total available amp hours to determine how long you can run your AC. You may find you have only have a few hours of AC time from the batteries even if softstarts will work. And, then you have dead batteries that may requre a lot of generator time to recharge.

Given the supplies you have, I would try to run AC from the generator and not through the inverter. Perhaps you could find a manual or automatic transfer switch that could work to switch from the solar breaker box to the generator? Otherwise it may require manually unplugging the cord from the solar breaker box and into the generator, then fire up the generator to use AC.

hth

Brad
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Old 12-04-2020, 11:17 AM   #34
66 Galaxie
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As others have noted; there are concerns running your AC from the 2000 watt inverter. Perhaps you may be able to do this if you add a softstart to the AC, such as from here, https://www.softstartusa.com/ .

I believe most solar system designers suggest a minimum of 3000 watt inverter to run AC. The new Montana's with their Super Solar Flex package use a 3000 watt inverter, and have included softstarts and new high efficiency AC units.

Also, with the battery bank you have, it will be important to calculate your total available amp hours to determine how long you can run your AC. You may find you have only have a few hours of AC time from the batteries even if softstarts will work. And, then you have dead batteries that may requre a lot of generator time to recharge.

Given the supplies you have, I would try to run AC from the generator and not through the inverter. Perhaps you could find a manual or automatic transfer switch that could work to switch from the solar breaker box to the generator? Otherwise it may require manually unplugging the cord from the solar breaker box and into the generator, then fire up the generator to use AC.

hth

Brad

Correct. A 2000w inverter will not start an air conditioner. It might run it for a little while if you install an EZ-Start on it. You will absolutely want to install soft starts on all of your air conditioners.
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Old 12-04-2020, 02:19 PM   #35
steiny93
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Question to the original poster

What electrical devices are you intending to run off of solar?

Your current spec seems on the small side, curious as to what your expectation is for being to operate 110volt items in the rv.
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Old 04-12-2021, 06:20 PM   #36
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Need suggestions, we're new to the Montana Family. We needed to run our tv on 12 V, so had a 450 samlex power inverter installed. It says it's 450 Watts. Our first run out, we were going to watch a movie and as soon as we started the vcr and tv together an alarm went off on the inverter. Our meters said we had 2/3 full batteries. Can someone help? Also I see a lot of people use golf cart batteries. Are they better than a regular car battery?
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Old 04-12-2021, 06:33 PM   #37
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Need suggestions, we're new to the Montana Family. We needed to run our tv on 12 V, so had a 450 samlex power inverter installed. It says it's 450 Watts. Our first run out, we were going to watch a movie and as soon as we started the vcr and tv together an alarm went off on the inverter. Our meters said we had 2/3 full batteries. Can someone help? Also I see a lot of people use golf cart batteries. Are they better than a regular car battery?
YES, golf cart 6V batteries are MUCH better. They are built with plates that can stand up to the constant deep discharge and re-charge. A car battery is used for most people 2 x a day to start the car. There is much more to learn like you need a battery monitor, never discharge more than 50%, why is your TV using so much power, my 49" 4K HDR TV uses very little power.
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Old 04-12-2021, 06:36 PM   #38
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Talking

1. Only on weekend a $200 to $300 solar unit from some place like Harbor Freight will charge your batteries over 5 weekdays.

2. You will need to run your generator to run your A/C. A 3,000 watt should work and since you do not need to worry about noise disturbing your neighbors. an open frame generator from Lowes or Home Depot should work. The Generator will also supplement the Solar in charging your batteries.

3. I can boondock (no A/C) almost a week with only 2 group 29 batteries and a 100 Watt solar panel. After about 5 or 7 days I need to run the generator to charge up the batteries. I run out of water before electricity.

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Old 04-12-2021, 07:09 PM   #39
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Need suggestions, we're new to the Montana Family. We needed to run our tv on 12 V, so had a 450 samlex power inverter installed. It says it's 450 Watts. Our first run out, we were going to watch a movie and as soon as we started the vcr and tv together an alarm went off on the inverter. Our meters said we had 2/3 full batteries. Can someone help? Also I see a lot of people use golf cart batteries. Are they better than a regular car battery?
Marie,

First, welcome to the forum.

It may not be a battery issue. Your inverter may be a little small to run both systems. I assume the inverter is up in the battery compartment with 120 wiring running back to the TV and VCR. If you are trying to run 12 volt back to an inverter near the TV you may be getting significant line loss.
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Old 04-12-2021, 08:49 PM   #40
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Thank you for your help. I'm not sure why our tv would use so much power. I thought the tv would be able to work off of the rv inverter that controls the lights, radio, some plugs, etc. But we took it in and they sold us this 450 samlex power inverter and mounted it behind the tv. We hadn't used the dvd player and tv on 12 volt until this past weekend. We were disappointed that the alarm came on. Trying to figure it out.....
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