Remove Norcold 1210.

[montanaowner]

Well folks. Really could use some advice here. I am getting ready to start pulling this thing out. Has to go to the shop. No mobile service out here in the boonies.

Any tips would be fantastic. Especially in terms of how the refrigerator is held in place. I am taking pictures of wiring and all that to ease the reinstallation. Not totally inept with wiring circuits. Used to be a mechanic on some really technical machines. Just went in a different professional direction.

I am in a 2010 Montana 3600 RL.

Please help if you can. I would be extremely grateful.

[montanaowner]

Okay, so this turns out to be one of the easier things to do in the trailer.

Took off the doors completely to cut the weight down. There's a nifty video on you tube that shows you how to remove the wood panels.

There are six screws on top and bottom you have to take out. Unplug the AC of course. Plug the gas line.

Biggest advice I have to someone attempting the same thing. A 3/8ths flare for the gas line and make sure you have teflon tape for the threads. Tech told me it was one psi coming through there. It still leaked and I needed the tape to shut that leak down. Was being lazy and I figured I could get away with not taping it. Had to go find the damn yellow tape. Mission accomplished. I only cut my fingers 3 times on stuff. Good day for that.

My anxiety was a little higher than it needed to be. Just leaving these tips for anyone running into the same problem. Really don't need anything more than some simple tools and a little muscle. I stood outside the trailer and pushed the unit out about 1/2 way. Did the rest of it inside.

[rohrmann]

A flare fitting does not use any sealant on the threads because the threads are not where the gas is controlled, the flare is the seal. If the fitting can not be tightened enough to stop the leak, it must be replaced.
These fridges are really heavy. I assisted a mobile tech to remove our fridge some years ago for a cooling system replacement, and partly due to the location of the fridge and the rest because there isn't any real good place to grab hold of the fridge, it is difficult to move them.

[montanaowner]

Sorry. The flare needed some yellow tape. Water and dish detergent don't lie.

[mazboy]

you should of just looked at replacing the back of it and not removing the whole thing.
talk to https://rvcool.com/

[fatcatzzz]

Originally Posted by montanaowner

Sorry. The flare needed some yellow tape. Water and dish detergent don't lie.

rohrmann is correct in saying the flared connection does not use yellow tape. If your connection has a leak there are two possible reasons. One is cracked flare or bad surface on the flare or it is not tight enough. If you are using yellow tape to seal a flare, you have a time bomb on your hands. IT WILL leak again going down the road with all the vibration. If the flare looks good, no scaring, then I would try to add some lubrication (pipe dope) between the BACK of the flare and the nut. This will allow you to get a little more torque on the nut.
Hope this helps.