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Old 04-08-2005, 03:40 PM   #121
Parrothead
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Update - we just received the Comfort Control from Dometic. But there are no instructions in the box so we will be relying on you guys for help. I'm printed out all of this post so hopefully we can make it thanks to you. We will be gone next week at a conference in So. Cal so won't be making the switch over for a while.
 
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Old 04-08-2005, 04:01 PM   #122
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Parrothead

Update - we just received the Comfort Control from Dometic. But there are no instructions in the box so we will be relying on you guys for help. I'm printed out all of this post so hopefully we can make it thanks to you. We will be gone next week at a conference in So. Cal so won't be making the switch over for a while.
We'll be here to help. You can PM me if needed, and I'll give you my cell phone number.
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Old 04-08-2005, 04:12 PM   #123
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Butdoit

Success!!!!
Many thanks to you all for the help!!!!!

4. Washer drained to black tank/We'll have to get used to this one..no fix from Montana.
Butdoit,

I'm glad you were able to get most of your issues resolved. #4 still seems like a major issue to me. I just installed a washer/dryer in our Mountaineer TT and I plumbed mine into the bathroom gray tank. Having the washer drain into the black tank seems to me like it will create a problem as the black tank is not usually dumped until it is full. Leaving a tank closed while running a washer drain into it is asking for trouble as you may underestimate how much space you have available. (And having a black tank back up is a much bigger issue than having a gray tank backup. )I would push back on Keystone on this one. I can't believe this would meet the RVIA standards of which Keystone is a member and their seal is posted next to your door.

If that fails, I'd crawl underneath and see how hard it would be to reroute the drain using PVC or ABS pipe available at your local home center. It seems to me it would be easy to cap the black tank drain and cut in to the gray drain line.

Just my two cents...
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Old 04-10-2005, 04:13 PM   #124
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We followed mazeeff directions and had no problem, everything works fine...my son in law came over and done it for us! He said. "Piece of Cake!" Thanks mazeeff for your directions!

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Old 04-11-2005, 02:25 AM   #125
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quote:Originally posted by campbud

We followed mazeeff directions and had no problem, everything works fine...my son in law came over and done it for us! He said. "Piece of Cake!" Thanks mazeeff for your directions!

Excellent. One more added to the list. One thing I have noticed with the Duotherm CCC. When you initially turn on the A/C with the unit previously being in a "off" condition, it can take a few (3-5) minutes, before the unit comes on. I guess it must be building up head pressure or something. This delay adds a little stress as you wonder if something is wrong or not!
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Old 04-11-2005, 03:08 AM   #126
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We also followed mazeeff directions since there was none in the box. Took about a hour to install everything is working fine. Thanks mazeeff for excellence directions.
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Old 04-11-2005, 03:20 AM   #127
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It was warm and humid in Texas this weekend, and I had a chance to test the freeze control on the DuoTherm CCC. It worked great. I took a digital temp probe and ran it next to the freeze control probe. I then took a piece of cardboard and routed the cold air output to the return side. It did not take long for the evaporator coils to freeze. Once they did, the compressor kicked off, and the fan switched to high. A gush of water ran off the rear of the trailer, and after a couple of minutes, the compressor kicked back on. This is a great feature which is on both the remote and non remote systems. It makes the system much more efficent, and allows you to make the trailer much cooler than you could before. In the past, as the coils would begin to freeze, the air output from the A/C would be highly reduced, due to the ice that blocks the coils and prevents air flow from flowing through the system.
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Old 04-11-2005, 05:10 PM   #128
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Duo Therm Success!! Got to try it out this weekend. The unit was tested against two digital thermometers at opposite ends of the trailer. Set thermostat to Furnace and 72 deg. Kicked on at 71.7 deg and off at 72.7 deg. It was like at home. A/C has the multi speed fan with Auto setting if desired. I let Dometic know that it worked well, but also that they still aren't understanding the issue - set point, not spread. If you have a remote system with issues, this is a great solution. Unlike Mike, not quite warm enough in Northern Illinois to try out the freeze guard. But, at least the furnace works well. Only wish Keystone would have made a more prominent part in this. Looks like Dometic is at least taking an interest.
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Old 04-12-2005, 03:36 AM   #129
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fulltimedreamer,

It is not necessarily a bad thing to drain a washer/dryer into the black tank. Some people use 20 mule-team borax or clagon water-softener and a cup of liquid detergent in their black tanks instead of chemicals. This is said to coat the sides and bottom of the tank so nothing sticks them. Supposed to keep stuff from sticking to the gauage sensors also. You would be adding detergent to the tank with the washer/dryer. You would just have to keep a close watch on the levels in the tank.
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:07 AM   #130
Chester
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Dometic has sent me the Duotherm as well and will try to install it this afternoon. I notice that the new wall unit is narrower that the existing unit so the screw holes in the wall don't line up. Did you folks have an open screw hole after installing the new one?? If so how did you cover it??


Thanks....
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:59 AM   #131
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quote:Originally posted by Chester

Dometic has sent me the Duotherm as well and will try to install it this afternoon. I notice that the new wall unit is narrower that the existing unit so the screw holes in the wall don't line up. Did you folks have an open screw hole after installing the new one?? If so how did you cover it??


Thanks....
It was close, but in my case the new unit covered up the exisitng holes. I punched two new holes, and centered up the new unit to cover the old holes.
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:46 AM   #132
Chester
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Mike, I thank you for the excellent instructions you provided. I installed my unit in about 45 mins and the furnace and AC seem to work great. Tonight I'll check temp swing on the furnace to see how much of a swing there is and how close the thermostat gets the temp to the setting.

By the way, dometic advised me that dip switch 6 if switched on cuts the temp swing in half. I'll try it tonight with 6 off first and then will try with 6 on.

Thanks again
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:20 AM   #133
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quote:Originally posted by Chester

Mike, I thank you for the excellent instructions you provided. I installed my unit in about 45 mins and the furnace and AC seem to work great. Tonight I'll check temp swing on the furnace to see how much of a swing there is and how close the thermostat gets the temp to the setting.

By the way, dometic advised me that dip switch 6 if switched on cuts the temp swing in half. I'll try it tonight with 6 off first and then will try with 6 on.

Thanks again
Very interesting. The service manual labled dip switch #6 as "differential". I wondered what that meant! Let us know what you find. You may have to re-boot the wall unit after flipping the switch. What kind of temp swing are you seeing now?
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:01 AM   #134
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Yes we too would be interested to know what you find out!
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:43 AM   #135
Chester
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Actually I didn't bother trying switch 6 last night. First I found that the trailer warmed up one deg higher than the setting (ie. set for 73 and it the furnace shut off at 74.) Then it only reduced to 72 for the furnace to come back on. I can't see that I need to cut that differential in half. If we get a couple of cold nights (supposed to be almost freezing later this week) I'll give it a better test and will let you know what I do with switch 6.

Here is the info Dometic sent me on this:


Differential - differential is the temperature difference between the "ON/OFF" cycle of the thermostat. The normal
differential is preset in the circuit board with the dip switch set to the "OFF" position. In some situations, it may be
necessary to decrease the Differential. The location of the thermostat may create a condition where the normal Differential
will not maintain your comfort zone. If this occurs, the Differential can be shortened by placing the Differential dip switch
in the "ON" position.
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Old 04-20-2005, 06:08 PM   #136
Parrothead
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Mike - where did you get the service manual?
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:03 AM   #137
mazeeff
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quote:Originally posted by Parrothead

Mike - where did you get the service manual?
I posted a link to the service manual, back on page 7 of this mega-thread. It was included in my instructions. It is a PDF file, and quite useful. I recommend that everone read it, prior to doing the conversion. Here is the link again.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:53 PM   #138
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We did push back but with now success! As far as doing it myself, it will be a lot easier to get used to...We now have the cleanest black tank i9n the RVParks we stay.
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by We have had 3 months now to work out the kinks and get comfortable with the process and once over that hump it seems like no big deal!! Thanks for the reply, sorry it took so long for me to get back but have been on the road and not getting good Verizon service for may data package!

fulltimedreamer


Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Butdoit

Success!!!!
Many thanks to you all for the help!!!!!

4. Washer drained to black tank/We'll have to get used to this one..no fix from Montana.
Butdoit,

I'm glad you were able to get most of your issues resolved. #4 still seems like a major issue to me. I just installed a washer/dryer in our Mountaineer TT and I plumbed mine into the bathroom gray tank. Having the washer drain into the black tank seems to me like it will create a problem as the black tank is not usually dumped until it is full. Leaving a tank closed while running a washer drain into it is asking for trouble as you may underestimate how much space you have available. (And having a black tank back up is a much bigger issue than having a gray tank backup. )I would push back on Keystone on this one. I can't believe this would meet the RVIA standards of which Keystone is a member and their seal is posted next to your door.

If that fails, I'd crawl underneath and see how hard it would be to reroute the drain using PVC or ABS pipe available at your local home center. It seems to me it would be easy to cap the black tank drain and cut in to the gray drain line.

Just my two cents...
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:27 PM   #139
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Thanks Mike, after looking at the directions you posted and I printed, I realize I had already printed this. Senior moment.
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:55 PM   #140
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I have a 2005 3400RL. I had a problem n the beginning. No matter how high I turned up the temp I was cold. Then I decided to read the book. I learned that you needed the icon on the Ifeel mode. Then the temp will change. Otherwise it defaults to 68 deg. It now works great.
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