2010 Dodge Interated Brake Controller - Montana Owners Club

Krusher · 08-01-2011, 09:52 AM

As you can see in my signature, I have a 2010 Dodge 3500 with tow package, which includes their interated brake controller. At this point, I am not very happy with the braking performance of this unit. It just feels like the trailer is pushing me under braking, rather than applying sufficient braking power to the trailer. I do plan to once again check the brake adjustment on the trailer, and validate I am getting current to the magnets. But I'm pretty sure it's not a wiring problem or trailer brake issue as prior to this, I had a Ford with thier version of an integrated brake controller, and was very satisfied with the trailer braking performance of that unit.
I read numerous threads on other sites, including Ram and Dodge forums, that I am not alone in my view. I know that there are other MOC members with 2010/2011 Dodge 2500/3500 trucks, and would like to know if you share the same feeling, and whether any have disconnected the factory unit and replaced with a unit such as the P3, MaxBrake, or another brand.

Thanks in advance for your reply.

oldelmer1 · 08-01-2011, 02:57 PM

I have the same issue with mine too, its set at 6, and it seems that you really have to push on the pedal to make the trailer brakes come on. I too had a Ford before and had no problems either.

What number are you set at? Have you tried turning it up and see if its better?

mobil · 08-01-2011, 11:21 PM

I have mine set at 9. It's different from the aftermarket controller I had in my Ford where if I just touched the brake pedal I could feel the trailer slowing/pulling the truck. With my Dodge, I never feel that. In fact, at first, I didn't think it was working at all. But after pushing the manual slide on it the brakes come on just fine. Panic/sudden stops where the EB doesn't assist are good without the feeling of the truck being pushed. Normal braking is good, the EB helps a great deal. I've also read a lot of posts about Dodges controller being weak. I think mine works pretty good and I'm happy with it, especially after our experience on Sat. It's just a lot different from what I've been used to. Tho I am surprised I have to keep it at the 9 setting. We just got in Florida yesterday from our home in Ohio. On the way down one of the Marathons blew coming down a mountain, on a turn, I-75S, heavy traffic. No problem getting stopped in a hurry. The dodge kept it completely stable, very controlled. The butt puckering experience was changing the tire. That's another story. By the way, nice truck. I have the same color combo.

Ishler · 08-02-2011, 01:25 AM

I also have mine set at 9. One thing it doesn't do like my old Prodigy is the boost where it applies some brake as soon as you touch the pedal, I think that is what I'm trying to get used to.

Krusher · 08-02-2011, 01:43 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by oldelmer1

I have the same issue with mine too, its set at 6, and it seems that you really have to push on the pedal to make the trailer brakes come on. I too had a Ford before and had no problems either.

What number are you set at? Have you tried turning it up and see if its better?

I started out having it set at 5, then 8, and now 10, with no change in brake performance regardless of the setting. The amount of pedal force I have to apply to get the rig stopped in a short distance situation is unacceptable to me. Yes the exhaust brake greatly helps, but has nothing to do with acceptable braking performance. The previous Ford did not have an EB, and the braking performance and stopping distance were much better than what this Dodge exhibits.
Once I get around to checking the trailer brake adjustment again, this time I will remove the drums, and validating correct voltage at the magnets, I probably will be replacing the OEM unit with an after market controller.

2Wanderers · 08-02-2011, 01:39 PM

Run mine on 6. Lower wasn't enough. Higher caused the trailer brakes to lock up at times.

oldelmer1 · 08-02-2011, 02:25 PM

If you find everything good with the brakes and the magnets, I would try a trip to the dealer to see if they can do any checks on it. I have read on the Cummins forum that some controllers have been bad and the dealer has replaced them.

Its worth a try.

Crooktail · 08-02-2011, 04:11 PM

I just got home last night from a thousand mile round trip and am not at all happy with the controller. This morning, I looked at the front wheels on the truck and saw that there was a lot of brake dust on the wheels. I am going to see if I can hook a Prodigy up and bypass the stock controller. I have the controller turned up to 9.5 and it has never registered above 3 on the display (under very hard braking). When slowing to a stop at low speed (around town), the controller fails to activate at all. In my opinion, this controller is a safety hazard and a total failure on the part of Dodge. The only thing that saves the day is the exhaust brake in my opinion.

CamillaMichael · 08-03-2011, 02:11 AM

Dodge is new at this (integrated brake controller), I believe. Will probably be a while before they are able to match Fords lead.

Krusher · 08-03-2011, 03:24 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by oldelmer1

If you find everything good with the brakes and the magnets, I would try a trip to the dealer to see if they can do any checks on it. I have read on the Cummins forum that some controllers have been bad and the dealer has replaced them.

Its worth a try.

I sent the Dodge Technical Team an email yesterday concerning the braking performance of thier integrated controller, detailing my experience at various speeds, conditions and "power settings". Here's thier reply,

"Thank you for contacting the Ram Customer Assistance Center in regards to your 2010 Ram 3500.

Unfortunately, we are unable to provide technical assistance. You may contact your local dealership for further assistance, or you may refer to the vehicle's Service Manual."

Once I inspect the trailer brakes again, I will bring the truck to the dealer, but I will be very surprised if any solution will be found to correct what I believe to be a very poor design.

oldelmer1 · 08-03-2011, 05:42 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Krusher

"Thank you for contacting the Ram Customer Assistance Center in regards to your 2010 Ram 3500.

Unfortunately, we are unable to provide technical assistance. You may contact your local dealership for further assistance, or you may refer to the vehicle's Service Manual."

Thats a shame.....

Montana Sky · 08-03-2011, 04:06 PM

I noticed the same thing with my Ram. I've got my setting set on 6 and noticed a few times that it did not feel like it was enough. I will note that my brakes did lock up during slow speed parking a time or two at 7 so I backed it down to 6. I also noticed that my controller appears to apply "boost" the harder I press the brake pedal.

jackel1959 · 08-03-2011, 05:24 PM

We have only done one 800 mile round trip towing the Montana, but had the controller set at 7 the entire time and the braking of both the truck and the trailer felt very good. I did not feel like the truck was being pushed or that the trailer brakes weren't providing enough stopping power or that they were grabbing. This feeling was the same at city speeds, stop and go traffic and decelerating when leaving the highway. I have not had to preform any panic stops with the tuck and trailer so far.

As others have said there is no boost adjustment (our last truck had a P3 controller) and I think that takes some getting used of. I had a hard time setting the P3 according to the instructions, but then an RV repair guy told me to set the voltage to just below where the trailer brakes will lock up from a dead stop then adjust the boost to your desired level. This worked well for me so I used the same method when adjusting the controller on the new truck. So far so good.

Jack

Ishler · 09-06-2011, 06:20 AM

So the issue of brake effectiveness has bothered me since my earlier post. While I was installing the wet bolts I noticed one wheel spun freer than the rest ie no brake drag. I finally got back to it today and found that I had no brake function on the rear axle. I found the main wire to the axle was separated from the butt splice under the belly pan. A new connection and I have lots of brakes. I had a brake assembly replaced at that wheel last fall and in the trip home didn't notice the difference, then we got the new truck and I attributed it to the integrated controller. So that's my experience for what it's worth.

jackel1959 · 09-06-2011, 06:40 AM

Mike,
Good post and I am glad you found the problem and all is working as is should be.. I always try to make it a point to look at the connections underneath when I am performing maintenance under the rig (i.e. checking u-bolt torque or lubing the wet bolts). I also installed "wire loom" over the wires that go from the belly pan into the axles just to add a little more protection to them. I am pretty sure you can also verify brake magnet operation by using a standard compass and having a helper step on the brake pedal. By holding the compass close to the wheel you should see the needle swing when the pedal is depressed.

Jack

Jack

Ishler · 09-07-2011, 02:14 AM

Jack
This connection was not visible without dropping the belly pan. I used a compass and a DC current probe to test the line. The wire loom is on my to-do list.
So how do you like that HO?
Mike

jackel1959 · 09-07-2011, 05:10 AM

Mike,
Still loving it! We will be making a trip to Oregon in a couple of weeks. The truck is so comfortable to travel in....it is like night and day from the 2002 Ford I had. I did a solo trip to Seattle last week and got 17 mpg on the round trip. So it seems like mileage is starting to improve a bit. I now have just over 3K on it. I will be interested to see what mileage is like on our upcoming trip.

Jack

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