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02-02-2006, 08:30 PM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 214
M.O.C. #3933
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Help!!!
Since I didn't get much response (or help) when this was posted on "It's a dirty job...", I decided to post it a couple more places...We really need helppppp.
This past weekend we went camping with our adult son and his family who live in another city. When we left he was at the dump station with the used motor home he recently acquired. A few miles up the road I got a cell phone call: Hey Dad! What do you do when the black water valve handle and pull bolt come all the way out and the valve is still closed??? He said there were no threads on the end of the bolt, just a ridge. All I could tell him was that he had a baaad problem and I can't think of a good remedy short of a hazardous body suit. Anyone have a fix for opening that valve - safely? Mike
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02-02-2006, 10:20 PM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lovettsville
Posts: 228
M.O.C. #359
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He could try using a boat bilge pump (or something similar) to pump the liquid back up through the toilet and into something. Then once the liquid is out replace the gate with a new one (this should avoid a massive sh..slide although something might still come out as I doubt he will be able to get 100% of the fluid out). Then fill the tank with water using a hose down the toilet so the tank will dump. But personally I would pay a dealer pretty much anything they wanted to deal with this problem and I am usually a do it your self person.
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02-03-2006, 12:53 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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I don't think this a simple fix and that a suggestion from one of us will provide a simple fix. You need to get at the dump valve and see how it's connected. You will need to drop part of the belly to expose the connections. As stated above,If you don't want to tackle yourself then you need to go to a professional repair shop.
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02-03-2006, 01:23 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Weatherford
Posts: 1,383
M.O.C. #9
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I think the replies you had were about all the options !!
1. try a new push/pull rod (he'll probably wind up buying a new assembly any way you go)and see if it will catch the threads in the gate.
2. try the loooong screw idea - maybe one on each side to push and pull at the same time
2 1/2. operhaps drill a small hole in the opposite side and put something through to push the gate open (rather than pull it) - then repair or replace the assembly. If it just needs a rod the hole could be plugged with epoxy or resin or a screw.
3. remove the contents from inside, then replace the valve/gate assembly with a new one
4. drill a small hole just "upstream" of the valve to try to drain the "stuff" outside and then replace the valve/gate assembly with a new one
5. take it to a repair shop and get out the $$$$$ (safest and easiest for him)
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02-03-2006, 01:24 AM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cicero
Posts: 336
M.O.C. #4571
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Had the same thing happen on my '95 Jayco, its a poor design, its held on by an O-Ring, mine was under warranty, so the dealer took care of it, and replaced the valve with a threaded rod, and nut type valve handle. Since it is broke anyways, I would suggest possibly trying to put some SuperGlue, or other adhesive on the rod, and trying to reseat it in the valve, and carefully try to open the valve (while at a dump station, or sewer stack, with the hose on of course). If that fails, I would take it to a professional, and have them deal with it. Just make sure to replace it with a sturdier designed valve handle.
JP
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02-03-2006, 01:28 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Conover
Posts: 995
M.O.C. #1832
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What about a long small sheet metal screw run it into where pull rod came out from its hole and try to open it then?
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02-03-2006, 01:55 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,568
M.O.C. #4890
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ABS pipe is so easy to glue and work with, I would do what Vanman suggested, Drill a hole just upflow of the valve. Have a series of 5 gal pails to collect the sewage. Relace the section of pipe you had to drill and install a new valve. This is a dirty, rubber glove type of job and you would want to put a good dose of tank de oderizer in the tank before you drain it this way.
The buckets of sewage can be carefully dumped into a house toilet or back in RV toilet after the repair is proved out by fresh water. Good Luck and if you want to hire this out , any good plumber can do this for you and some places will have a better way of pumping out your tank.
Good luck with this unpleasant task. Don.
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02-03-2006, 02:01 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Haldimand County
Posts: 2,413
M.O.C. #122
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Does his brand of RV have an owner's group? ...or maybe even a customer service department that might have encountered this before? We would be able to offer advice for a Montana, since similar things have happened and been fixed, but it is hard to offer advice when you don't really have a good picture of the situation. As others have said, this may be a job for competent service shop (not necessarily the dealer).
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02-03-2006, 02:04 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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I would be letting my fingers do the walking through the yellow pages for a septic tank vendor, honey wagon,Plumber .Cost would be no object. I would mortgage my house to pay for it.
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02-03-2006, 03:43 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 664
M.O.C. #920
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As mentioned above, I would drop the belly pan as needed to identify the cause of this problem. You may be able to reattach the rod easily. If you are not able to reattach the rod, you may be able to open the valve manually.Good luck!
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02-03-2006, 03:50 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by richfaa
I would be letting my fingers do the walking through the yellow pages for a septic tank vendor, honey wagon,Plumber .Cost would be no object. I would mortgage my house to pay for it.
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DITTO!!!
'Nough said. Haven't even had breakfast yet, guys. All sorts of visualizations now (buckets). Really appreciate it - my fault - curiousity got me into this thread.
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02-03-2006, 04:20 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 5,316
M.O.C. #15
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Mike and or Ronni,
You got some good advice here. I think I'd at least drop the belly pan and take a look at the problem. If the screw or the glue advice looks like it would work then give that a shot. Otherwise have a mobile tech come out and fix it or take it into an RV place and have them fix it. If it looks like it would be difficult or questionable then there's no doubt what to do!
Best of luck to your son. Glad he lives in another town!
Take care,
HamRad
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02-03-2006, 05:11 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 540
M.O.C. #4483
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I was going to suggest the septic tank pumper truck but Rich beat me to it. Once the tank is empty (or as empty as you can get it) the problem is not as urgent, you'll have more time and options.
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02-03-2006, 08:56 AM
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#14
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Kooskia
Posts: 116
M.O.C. #380
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This has been discussed before, and the solution I liked best was to drop the belly pan and see if you could reattach the operating rod. If not, then get a Dremel cutoff tool and cut the plastic shroud off the side of the valve (the rectangular part that surrounds the operating rod. Then hook onto the valve with pliers (with the dump hose installed of course) and pull the valve open and dump the tank and flush. Now you are ready to install a new dump valve.
Jim Crockett
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02-03-2006, 10:31 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kalispell
Posts: 937
M.O.C. #3113
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Try 1/4 inch all thread. That might work.
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02-06-2006, 07:09 PM
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#16
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 214
M.O.C. #3933
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Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. HamRad Dennis - you're not as glad he lives in another town as I am. I know this one would have been expected as a father/son project because I'm "experienced"? Anyway, I brought up the subject with him yesterday, all prepared to give some good fatherly advice, gleaned from all your suggestions, but he informed me he had solved the problem. He has an appointment with an RV place to take it in Friday. He's of the same conviction as some of the above that if he can't pay to have it fixed then sell the rig & buy a new one. He is handy and can do most anything, but will not even consider tackling this one himself. He says what ever they charge will be worth it.
Again, thanks to all for some good ideas. If any of us are presented with a similar problem in the future we will be better prepared to handle it - or not, depending on our constitution. I'll let you know what it actually cost when this is all over with. Are'nt you glad you are'nt the newest tech trainee at that RV shop??????
Mike
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02-07-2006, 07:09 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Cumming
Posts: 2,820
M.O.C. #919
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Mike,
If I were doing the job, the new valve would be part + time. The tank cleanout would be a whole lot more!! LOL
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02-07-2006, 08:35 AM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ephrata
Posts: 757
M.O.C. #2801
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Have your son try to take a piece of small diameter rod bend the end in a vice 90deg. and see if he can hook the end on the valve and open it. Or get a long screw just a little larger than the rod and see if it will screw into the valve. Could save him a buck or tow.
Good Luck
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02-14-2006, 08:44 PM
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#19
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 214
M.O.C. #3933
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Well all, it's over & done with. $278 for the RV shop to pump it out, put on a new valve and install a thru the wall rinse out system. My son is happy & said he was glad to pay the bill as long as he didn't have to deal with it....& I'm happy that he was able to pay it!!! Thanks again to all for your suggestions. Mike
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02-14-2006, 09:23 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Down the Road
Posts: 5,627
M.O.C. #889
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Mike,
Glad to hear the problem has been solved with a positive outcome.
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