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11-12-2012, 11:12 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durango
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #10005
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Front Door Warp
It's cold here in Colorado and I readying to head South. The door on my 2010 2955RL does not want to stay closed. The latch does not engage the striker. After trying to adjust, I ran a string from the top of the door to the bottom near the outside frame and discovered it is concave (or convex depending on which side you look) by about 1/4" thus the latch is unable to latch inside the striker plate hole.
I could put a block of wood on the top and another on the bottom to prevent them from closing and attempt to bend that center portion back in but thought I should check and see if any of you have a better solution. I have had minor problems in the past but this is the first that makes closing and latching the door impossible. It just started today and there has been no stresses on the door.
Help!
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11-12-2012, 12:15 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chilliwack
Posts: 1,520
M.O.C. #12935
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Bud does your door appear to also be curved on the hinge side? Is there any indication the door has scraped in either the top or bottom of the frame when you try to close it.
I have had this problem with my truck camper and have used the block at top and bottom for lack of a better way of doing it. Perhaps someone will jump in with a solution we can store away in case it happens to us on our units.
I would bet the servicing dealer would do something similar once you were no longer looking. Or they might suggest you need a new door...
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11-12-2012, 01:41 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lykens
Posts: 545
M.O.C. #11842
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I had the same problem with my 3750FL when I took delivery of it 11 months ago. The dealer and Keystone decided it could not be repaired and replaced it.
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11-12-2012, 06:12 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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We had a similar problem with ours and have had it adjusted by Keystone twice. I could be wrong, but I think it had to do with having the rear stabilizers done too hard. For whatever reason the issue hasn't returned since we added level up.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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11-13-2012, 04:45 AM
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#5
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durango
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #10005
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I used the top & bottom block method to adjust. Seems okay now. Thanks for all the replys.
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11-13-2012, 07:22 AM
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#6
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Durango
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #10005
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Oops! I thought I had the problem solved but alas I was wrong. After much head scratching (and various other places) I discovered there was right at 1/2" gap between the door and door jam at the striker plate. Further investigation revealed the door latch itself was extended from the door 1/2". This due to lousy installation of the door jam. When the door shut, the latch just barely reached the striker plate. I put 2 small washers behind each screw hole on the striker plate, moving the striker plate about 1/4" closer to the latch. Time allowing, I will construct a better looking shim. Works perfectly now with no fear of the door coming open even on rough roads. To bad Keystone doesn't have a quality control program.
I'll bet a heated argument could be started by someone bragging about Montana's quality control:-)
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11-13-2012, 09:51 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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They do brag about it when you take the factory tour. The rigs we saw had many defects noted for correction. Based on what gets by it's a wonder they can tow them to the dealers.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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11-13-2012, 10:44 AM
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#8
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Established Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Nærbø
Posts: 47
M.O.C. #12964
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looking at this im thinking is it a better fifth wheel at marked at the same prise class like montana? or is it the same problem with all fifth wheels no qualety control?
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11-13-2012, 03:51 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastern
Posts: 1,155
M.O.C. #7270
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Bud my 06 was like that but not quite as much as yours. at the rally in 09 I had keystone look at it and he said to leave it alone it would not hurt anything. Well I looked at it till this pass summer so I decided to fix it. If you feel comfortable doing it its not that hard to do just pull the cover off the screw strip on the latch side and remove all the screws except the bottom and the one right before the top curve. Carefully remove the caulk from the back of the frame don't skin the finish on the rv. take a putty knife and go behind the flange and loosen it just be careful and work it loose and pry it over till it is straight with the door I used a straight edge but the door will work rescrew and recaulk. I did mine in about 2 hrs no hurry works better than ever. BTW I did have to move the wood strip over to cover the gap inside. JMHO
Bobby
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