AC distribution panel problem

[CBTraveler]

Our 2006 3400RL lost power to the bedroom outlets. I discovered that the neutral wire had pulled out of the neutral buss bar. The holdown screw had not been torqued properly during production. Close to that connection was the kitchen neutral wire with a 3 inch section of charred insulation. The charred insulation fell off as I touched the wire. That screw was also poorly tightened. In addition there were three other neutral wires that required retorqueing. The hot wires connected to the breakers were all tight.

[Devildog]

I make it a habit once a year to check all those connections. Add it to your de-winterization process.

[timandsusan]

I went thru the "loose wire" issue this past summer. I found that many of the screws on the breakers needed re-torqueing. I found out the problem when the 50AMP main breaker would pop with both AC's running--was needed in +100 degree heat. I believe my situation was caused by 5 years of traveling about 8000 miles of towing a year--includes a trip to Alaska. Something to do when the rigs a few years on them.

[CORattler]

A GREAT idea!

quote:Originally posted by Devildog

I make it a habit once a year to check all those connections. Add it to your de-winterization process.

[swanny]

yes it's good to check them, but most are not tightened right at the factory. I have checked 3 new units so far and all were not right. Loose wires wires with only about 1/2 the strands in the connection and insulation on the wires tightened in the connection. I can't remember the last time i needed to tighten a connection on my car or truck. Just sayin.

kevin

[Illini Trekker]

I soldered the braided wire at the 50 amp plugin on the camper and other braided wire connection to insure the wires are torqued tight. When working on the main power cable there must have been 5 ft. of extra cable that I cut shorter to length, it is like there is a one size fits all when these trailer are built.

[Ozz]

They need some quality control in that department, I think I will post this thread link for the Keystone area.
Mine were loose in '07, one was finger tight.

[Captain Joe]

Mine is at the shop right now. The wires leading to the fuse panel were all loose and two had charred insulation. The lights stopped working and the fuse panel was damaged. A new panel was ordered and the extended warranty will cover the repairs, less my deductible. ADD to annual list but ADD to PDI list, as well.

[bncinwv]

Ours were okay from the factory (I did check), but the idea of checking them occasionally is very important. I think this is true particularly if your rig undergoes extreme temperature changes, (our rig sees from sub-zero to 100 degrees on an annual basis), since the connections are subject to expansion and contraction baqcause they are metal. I am sure road vibrations play into this as well. I really like the suggestion of adding it to the de-winterization list, and preferably should be done when the temperature is as low as possible. As always, this is my opinion with absolutely no scientific backup support, but it seems logical. Besides, it is an easy check to do. If your rig is also equipped with an automatic transfer switch or a hard-wired EMS, add those connections to the list to be checked as well. Loose wires can lead to possible fires, a consequence that we all want to avoid.
Bingo

[richfaa]

Same here although on lessons learned here we dropped our panel the firs week home and tightened everything down. It was a rats nest back there and I would like to know by what wiring code it was wired by.

[bncinwv]

AWC Rich, for all the factory tours you should know that!! Amish Wiring Code - I think they can use electricity can't they???
Bingo

[Captain Joe]

Picked up my Monty today. New new fuse panel was installed. $479 covered by my extended warranty and $65 was my cost ($50 deductible and $15 for part shipping). I am so happy to have had the extended warranty.