Alignment

[tooth ferry]

MHC 2014 305RL Just put 2 new axles on to replace the 2 with lost camber. My question is how to check alignment and how to adjust alignment if necessary. The only locators I could see were the male/female interlocks on top of the spring and the bottom of the plate on the U-bolt. I could not see any other adjustment positioners.. Spring hangars, etc. looked o.k. Tires being replaced looked fairly evenly worn except for back axle on curb side which had just started looking bad in last 2-3 months, 3000 miles bad wear on inside edge.

[Hblick48]

Place a long straight edge across the horizontal center of the tires. Front of each tire should be slightly in, indicating that there is tow in. Place a level vertically on the center of the tire, should be slightly "bubble out".

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Hblick48

Place a long straight edge across the horizontal center of the tires. Front of each tire should be slightly in, indicating that there is tow in. Place a level vertically on the center of the tire, should be slightly "bubble out".

That's as good a way as any by a DIYer. About all I would add is that you should use a method for a stand off to compensate for tire bulges which are not always uniform.


What I will be doing soon as I too have a tire wearing is use a length of 1" square tubing I have and drill and tap 4 holes to match the wheel flats at the center line. Those tapped holes will each have a bolt locked by a lock nut at equal height. This contraption will be set up at that center line and measured agaonst each wheel. Camber - same kind of gadget.


Amazing that RV manufacturers feel that they can use the same 3" axle tube, 5200 through 7000 pound series with only hubs and bearings different. And on trailers from about 7000 to 15-16000 or more pounds.

[RMcNeal]

There are no "built in" adjusters for these axles. The only adjustment I've been told is to bend the axle back to spec, or simply replace with a new one.

[psomers]

Originally Posted by Dave W

That's as good a way as any by a DIYer. About all I would add is that you should use a method for a stand off to compensate for tire bulges which are not always uniform.


What I will be doing soon as I too have a tire wearing is use a length of 1" square tubing I have and drill and tap 4 holes to match the wheel flats at the center line. Those tapped holes will each have a bolt locked by a lock nut at equal height. This contraption will be set up at that center line and measured agaonst each wheel. Camber - same kind of gadget.


Amazing that RV manufacturers feel that they can use the same 3" axle tube, 5200 through 7000 pound series with only hubs and bearings different. And on trailers from about 7000 to 15-16000 or more pounds.

Seems like I have read at sometime that a 5200# and 7000# axel the wall thickness of the 3" tube were thicker on the 7000# axel.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by psomers

Seems like I have read at sometime that a 5200# and 7000# axel the wall thickness of the 3" tube were thicker on the 7000# axel.

There is a supposed 'improved' 7K axle with a thicker wall though I can't find any ready reference as to when it started production and how it's defined by an manufacturer. Best I can find is 2017/8, but that's only hearsay, not fact

[Daryles]

Here's a link with some good info

https://www.centrevilletrailer.com/c...wear-made-easy