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Old 05-27-2020, 05:20 PM   #1
RKassl
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Is My Service Tech giving me BS?

During my annual inspection I noticed some drips of hydraulic fluid on both rear jack pads. Looked up and saw some fluid around the threaded connections. The dealer told me that they wanted to try and re-crimp the connectors but they didn't have the tool to do it. I asked him about new hydraulic hoses and he said that the job would be at least 10 hours labor. Does this sound on the up and up? I am going to have him check if my extended warranty will cover the job. What do you think?
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:23 PM   #2
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Before you replace anything, get your wrenches out and tighten the connections, just don’t over do it. You should get them to tighten and that might be all it takes.
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:32 PM   #3
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I had one that had the drips on the pad, tighten the connection and hasn't bother since.
As for the 10 hours, they must work really really slow. I had the Level-Up system retrofitted to my 2010 2955RL and the complete job only took two days at the TrailAir facility.
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:27 PM   #4
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10 hours seems like a bit much
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:17 PM   #5
GAinaMontana
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If the crimp was not done correctly it would not be leaking at the threads but from where the hose leaves the connector. If it is leaking at the threads, tighten as suggested above. Re-crimping a hydraulic fitting is NEVER a good idea. Cut off a bad fitting and have a new fitting crimped on at a good hydraulic shop.
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Old 05-27-2020, 08:45 PM   #6
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Like Frank and Marilyn pointed out ... there are no do overs with hydraulic hose crimping. Cut the old ftg off and crimp on a new one. Like said check your fititngs. The nut going from hose to fitting tightens up a metal flare type connection. The thin nut with a thin washer on the fitting itself tightens against an o-ring beneath the washer. No teflon tape nor pipe dope is necessary.
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Old 05-28-2020, 05:58 AM   #7
Waricha
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Your service advisor is taking advantage of you. You cannot "recrimp" hydraulic hoses. You have to cut the end off and crimp a new end on. Replacing the hoses in 10 hours is also very unrealistic. Try tightening the connection and that should resolve the leak. Normally, that is the case because of all the vibration the camper is subject to. Good luck.
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Old 05-28-2020, 06:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waricha View Post
Your service advisor is taking advantage of you. You cannot "recrimp" hydraulic hoses. You have to cut the end off and crimp a new end on. Replacing the hoses in 10 hours is also very unrealistic. Try tightening the connection and that should resolve the leak. Normally, that is the case because of all the vibration the camper is subject to. Good luck.
What's the likely hood the hose does not have the slack to take a cutoff and re-crimp?
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Old 05-28-2020, 07:32 AM   #9
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Does anybody know the wrench size for the hydraulic connectors if wanted to try and check for tightness, SAE or Metric?
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:01 AM   #10
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10 hours sound kind of long. The underbelly has to be dropped and there are some long cable runs. We had that done at a dealer while on the road a few years ago and it took one tech about 3 hours to complete the job. They did say 10 hours labor perhaps they had 2 techs doing the job.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:09 AM   #11
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I will be installing the whole system on my Monty this year. The dealer said that is an 8hr job, by the book. Your dealer must be working on island time.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:21 AM   #12
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I think you can get hydraulic hose connectors that screw on in place of crimp on but it still probably is a loose connection. These systems don’t run on very high pressure so the hose ends shouldn’t be bad.
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Old 05-28-2020, 12:18 PM   #13
Waricha
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If they have never been cut and recrimped before, you should be okay for at least one time. Normally, they leave a pretty good amount of slack. Worse case scenario, you use the current hose as a pull string to pull a new one through. I've done that before.
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Old 05-29-2020, 10:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RKassl View Post
Does anybody know the wrench size for the hydraulic connectors if wanted to try and check for tightness, SAE or Metric?
You may want to seek experienced help.
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Old 05-29-2020, 10:56 AM   #15
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Go to a heavy equipment repair shop or hydraulic hose shop & they will cut off the hose, install a new crimped fitting and if necessary make up an extension to length if required. They make them all the time. Have never heard of anyone trying to re-crimp a hydraulic fitting. If it fails it fails and needs to be replaced.
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:26 PM   #16
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That sounds very high, 10 hours my dealer charges $200 an hour so that's $2,000.
If you find the one that's leaking take it to a hydraulic shop. Probably 20 bucks
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:30 PM   #17
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We had the hydraulic hoses replaced a couple of months ago on our 2004 and the labor was around 5 hours.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:27 PM   #18
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cover the entire thing in flour. Yup take a handful and throw it at it. Cover the entire cylinder in it. Then look for the leak. I disagree with Linwood for the first time being low pressure. The initial pressure once the piston touches the ground depending upon the weight being lifted could be in the thousands of pounds.

Crimping a hose is a one shot deal. No second chances The die encompasses the ferrel and closes around it which bonds to the hose internal barbs. The hose internal barbs are what seals the hose. The crimp just keeps the hose from releasing on the barbs and flying out (apart).

The flour trick should show you exactly where the fitting is leaking and you can go from there. If it needs tightening then go for it, Just don't put two grunts on the wrench and strip the threads. Don't (over torque) one stiff tug should do.
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:51 PM   #19
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He is trying to steal your money! He might have in mind just tightening the threaded connections and charging 10 hours for it. It's should be less than a half hour to do so for the entire unit.
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Old 06-03-2020, 06:15 PM   #20
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Put a GOOD nylon string on the hose pull it out , carry to auto parts store and they will send it out to have new hose made. use copper furrels got a seat gasket, when you replace the hose tighten till snug add torque of one/half of the flat spot on nut then stop . shouls be ready to go. I did the copper ferrels gasket and have not leaked again in two years.
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