Battery - Montana Owners Club

mperk · 10-07-2008, 02:49 PM

When we have our 5ver hooked to 50amp service for months at a time is there a need for the battery

Can it be disconnected to avoid constant charging

H. John Kohl · 10-07-2008, 03:34 PM

You need a 12vdc source to run the 12vdc controls for the Refrigerator, heater and AC. The problem with disconnection the battery is lose of AC power that would provide the 12vdc power from the converter.

Steve and Brenda · 10-07-2008, 05:04 PM

Perk, You need a battery because it provides the reserve power when your DC circuit's load exceeds the capacity of the AC/DC converter. Also, if you lose AC power it provides power for your DC load. If you're concerned about battery overcharging while hooked up to shore power maybe a three stage converter is what you're looking for. As the battery nears a full charge the converter reduces the current flow to the battery to a trickle.

whiptail · 02-04-2009, 07:36 AM

Yesterday I was at an Ag show (farm stuff) and a battery dealer who was selling Trojan batteries and others told me that if I leave my 2008 29' Montana plugged in during the winter that the inverter may over charge the 12v battery that I left installed. He said that the rv won't go to a float charge. My original question to him was should I take the battery out in the winter and put it into the garage with a small float charger where it is usually above freezing. I always thought that the newer rv systems would cover this ok. Is he wrong? We live in N. Idaho.

goin2themountains · 02-04-2009, 08:59 AM

I always left my old SOB plugged in with no problems of overcharging, and I do know our '08 has a 3stage charger in the converter to stop that issue. If t'wer me, I would just check the info booklet on your converter to be sure, but don't think you will have a problem being plugged in over the winter.

ols1932 · 02-04-2009, 10:17 AM

I don't remember for sure (since I have my converter disconnected) but I believe you can turn off the converter and still have battery power. Then when you need some more trickle charge, turn the converter back on. Memory sometimes fails me, but seems to me that this works.

Orv

bsmeaton · 02-04-2009, 11:52 AM

Our 2007 Iota Converter did not come standard with the float charge. We added the Iota module that converts it to 3-stage battery conditioner. About $35 if I recall, and plugs right in. We leave our rig pugged in all winter with the batteries connected on board.

TLightning · 02-05-2009, 03:23 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bsmeaton

Our 2007 Iota Converter did not come standard with the float charge. We added the Iota module that converts it to 3-stage battery conditioner. About $35 if I recall, and plugs right in. We leave our rig pugged in all winter with the batteries connected on board.

Same here...paid $25 and no shipping.

BB_TX · 02-05-2009, 04:32 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bsmeaton

Our 2007 Iota Converter did not come standard with the float charge. We added the Iota module that converts it to 3-stage battery conditioner. About $35 if I recall, and plugs right in. We leave our rig pugged in all winter with the batteries connected on board.

Brad - How can you tell whether your converter has the float option or not? And where can you get the module if not?

illapah · 02-05-2009, 05:40 AM

IQ Smart Controller - For DLS Iota Converters IQ4P
The IQ Smart Controller offers automatic charging control for DLS Battery Chargers, providing longer and safer use of your system's battery. The IQ Smart Controller is compatible with any DLS Battery Charger model and is covered under our standard Two-Year Warranty.

Price: Qty
$32.90

Detailed Description
The IQ Controller allows the DLS Charger to operate as an automatic 2-stage "smart charger." This gives the customer the benefit of Bulk and Float stage charging, increasing the charging capacity of the DLS charger and decreasing charge times, insuring proper and safe battery charging and minimizing over-charging. This "smart" technology monitors the battery at all times. If the DLS voltage remains in the long term stage for more than seven days, the IQ will automatically deliver a boost charge for a predetermined time, then automatically return to the normal float stage.

Reduced Charge Times
The Bulk Stage allows the batteries to be charged from the full rated output of the DLS charger. During this stage the batteries are recharged quickly to reduce charge times

Reduced Battery Stress
During the Float Stage, the DLS charge voltage is reduced. This minimizes gassing while maintaining a full charge at the nominal rate of the battery.

Weekly Equalization for Longer Battery Life
If the batteries have not received a "smart charge" during a seven-day period, the IQ Controller will switch the DLS charger into a pre-programmed equalization stage to top off the batteries, dissolving any sulfate layer on the battery's internal plates and avoiding stratification.

Dimensions: 3.06" x 1.88" x 1.44"

You can look here:

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index....ROD&ProdID=413

bsmeaton · 02-05-2009, 07:00 AM

Bill,

Pretty much everything Illapah said above.

I hesitated to say it fits all Montanas, because I believe Keystone switched to another converter brand around 2008. Once I found the converter (under the stairs) and verified the brand, the tell tale sign to me was the short telephone cord taped to the coverter itself, and the phone jack in the front. The IQ plugs into that using that short cord.

I bought my IQ direct from Iota, and its an upgraded version from the one pictured in Illapah's catalog, as mine is black and has an LED that flashes a sequence to tell you what it is doing. I mounted it near the return air grill under the stair so I can see the light flash standing outside by the door. It does a conditioning sequence each time you plug into AC power. There is a picture of mine in "my mods" link below.

whiptail · 02-07-2009, 03:18 AM

Finally got to talk to sosmeone who knows at our dealer about our our 29' Montana and apparently we have some brand of converter called FESCO or something like that. No float capability it just charges. Seems there is no way to attach any kind of float gizmo on it. Right now we only have one battery so next year I will put a small charger with an extention cord into the bin where the battery is. My dream is to replace the 12v with two 6's. I was told it would be about $400. to replace the comverter.

bsmeaton · 02-07-2009, 12:44 PM

We have the twin 6s in a Blue Sea box. -powerful setup, you will like it.

Sorry about the converter- you might look them up directly to see what they say.

Bill and Lisa · 02-09-2009, 06:18 PM

There is an AC breaker in the electrical panel for the converter so you can open the breaker and keep the battery from overcharging. Ours was marked "AC Conv"

Silver Max · 02-09-2009, 08:15 PM

I bought mine here.
http://rvpowerpartsplus.net/index.ph...9981d6cf2e77ae
It is the same one Brad described above. Works great. I have checked the water in my battery several times since installing the smart controller, and have not had to add a drop of water.

KTManiac · 02-10-2009, 07:22 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by bsmeaton

We have the twin 6s in a Blue Sea box. -powerful setup, you will like it. .....

Brad,

I am looking for a dual battery box similar to the one you have, but for two group 27 12V batteries. Any suggestions?

bsmeaton · 02-10-2009, 07:46 AM

I don't other than the standard RV type vented box, sorry. The Blue Sea seems to only carry 3 sizes - the twin 6, and the other are for gel cells.

**Carl n Susan** · 02-10-2009, 04:30 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by KTManiac

I am looking for a dual battery box similar to the one you have, but for two group 27 12V batteries. Any suggestions?

Try this place. They have several types of battery boxes and the prices are lower than Blue Sea

http://www.alliedbattery.com/boxes.htm

Bob & Lee · 02-11-2009, 07:50 AM

BATTERY QUESTION, for the electric person, How do you test a battery to see how much of a drain is on it when everything is turned off there are still things on and the battery went dead so somthing is draining it.

Thanks
Bob

bsmeaton · 02-11-2009, 07:57 AM

A simple way to check for a load is to remove one battery cable and put a voltmeter between the cable and the post (check for correct polarity). If it reads 12V, you have something drawing. If it reads something around 6V or 8V, don't worry about it (leakage).

The less simple way is to get an inductive amp meter and lay it on the battery cable and read the amperage draw. The only problem is they are usually focused around the higher amperages so they may not be sensitive enought to pick a small draw unless you spend a little more money.

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