Hot Rod in Water Heater - Montana Owners Club

MuddyPaws · 10-28-2006, 06:47 PM

I'm almost sure I burned out the 'hot rod' in my water heater when I cleaned out the tank, forgot to turn it off, Well DUH!

I'm on the road and don't have my manuals. Where is it and how hard is it to replace?

Thanks,
MuddyPaws

trukdoc · 10-29-2006, 02:40 AM

Quite easy to replace. #1 disconnect power. Open the panel door on the outside. Need a wrench large enough to remove the plug, this is the plug on the back of the water heater with 2 wires in it. Simply disconnect the wires noting where they go remove the plug. Good time to take a water hose and clean the tank out. Use some pipe sealant and reinstall. Bleed out air by turning on hot water faucets until air is pushed out before turning on power.

MuddyPaws · 10-29-2006, 03:09 AM

Ahhhh, It's under a little plastic cover. With the right tools it won't be a problem to replace. Looks like I'll have to find a 1 1/2 socket and make another stop at Camping World on the way home. I was there just yesterday!

Such is the RV Life.

indy roadrunner · 10-29-2006, 03:15 AM

Is it a 1 1/2 socket or a 1 1/16 inch socket? Is it the same size as the anode rod?

Bill and Ann · 10-29-2006, 04:49 AM

MuddyPaws: Just a little something to think about. The rep was at the Fall rally this yr. and mentioned that the heater rod for the 12 gal. water heater will fit the 10 gal. unit. It is a better quality heater rod and won't burn out in 5 sec. like the one you are replacing. My two cents worth.

Thunderman · 10-29-2006, 01:15 PM

Some time ago I left the hw heater on after draining the water. As it turned out the hw heater had a switch that turned the power off automatically. Perhaps you will have some good luck also.

Weldon

MuddyPaws · 10-29-2006, 01:45 PM

Perhaps I lucked out. I checked it with a meter and it has about an 800 Ohm resistance, which would be just about right for a heater element.

Unfortunately I can't test now it because of yet ANOTHER problem.

G McCall · 11-28-2006, 03:45 AM

Muddypaws,
did you find your problem or have to replace the element ?
Anyone know the price for the element to our 10 gallon water heaters ?

I too may have damaged my heating element after draining the water for storing for a few weeks. I flipped my main RV box breaker and drained the water from the trailer including the water heater. Then I had to go inside again turn the electric on again and forgot I had the electric flip switch on to the water heater. Lights did not work because I had a battery disconnect switched to off.
The 30 AMP protective GFI inline breaker tripped. I turned the water heater switch off, reset the breaker and all was working again, but I did not have time to check the water heater.

jrgwdenner · 11-28-2006, 04:08 AM

It's a 1 1/16th socket. The anode costs around $10.00. Just replaced ours.

VanMan · 11-28-2006, 05:26 AM

It's not the anode in question - it's the heating element.

jrlepin · 11-28-2006, 05:46 AM

Well, I'm sure this is going to sound real dumb, but I didn't know we had an electric option for our hot water heater. We have a 2006 3400 RL and have always operated the switch by the inside steps, which is is for gas. We just came back to Oregon for the holidays and left our unit in Bullhead City, AZ, so I can't go reaserch further. But, if we have an electrical option, where is the switch?

Jim

G McCall · 11-28-2006, 05:59 AM

Jim,

The electric switch for our units is on the outside of the trailer inside the water heater door. Small black flip switch. Should have a pin threw it to prevent accidental activation.

MuddyPaws · 11-28-2006, 05:22 PM

It was definately the heater rod. It's kinda U shaped thingie. It was melted and fused together about 1 1/2 inches in.

I had to do a bit of grinding with a dremel to get the 1 1/2" socket past the sheetmetal.

The replacement element was $24 at CW.

Be sure to take the anode out first & drain the tank! Otherwise you'll soak your insulation.

G McCall · 11-29-2006, 01:07 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by MuddyPaws

It was definately the heater rod. It's kinda U shaped thingie. It was melted and fused together about 1 1/2 inches in.

I had to do a bit of grinding with a dremel to get the 1 1/2" socket past the sheetmetal.

The replacement element was $24 at CW.

Be sure to take the anode out first & drain the tank! Otherwise you'll soak your insulation.

Thanks for the advice.
Might have soaked my insulation

wait....isn't access to the heating rod on the outside ?

Jim · 11-29-2006, 07:03 AM

Muddypaws - If you go to an ACE Hardware store they have a socket kit you can buy for around $6 for changing the electrical element. It is great because you need a thin walled socket to fit in the tight space. We have one and keep it in the rig all the time for use mostly by other people who do the same thing I and you did. Also while at ACE I bought a spare element. All you need is the 110 volt 1500 watt one for about $11. It is a lot cheaper than CW and it never hurts to have a spare around, because sooner or later, I will do the same thing you did again.

RJI47 · 11-30-2006, 12:11 PM

Muddypaws, Like Jim said, that heater is called an "appliance heater" and is available most anywhere for =/-$10. I carry a spare now, as having the switch on the outside makes it inconvenient to turn it off and on. There is also an rv appliance mail order place in NY called Marks. He's online, and sells lots of parts for the Surburban and Attwood heaters. And I'm sure you saw that the 6pt socket is much better than the 12pt socket.
Glad you got it fixed.
Rick

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