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03-05-2019, 03:31 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 10
M.O.C. #23472
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Winterize fluid goes to hot water tank
I am trying to winterize my 2014 305RL.
I have the water heater bypass set to 'on' and the winterize set to 'on' and the tank fill power fresh set to 'normal flow'.
I have a hose in the fresh water connection and the other end in a jug.
However when I turn on the water pump any faucet I open gets 'gurgling' noises but the majority of the fluid goes into the water heater tank.
What am I missing?
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03-05-2019, 04:11 PM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fowler
Posts: 414
M.O.C. #12748
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There should be a dedicated connection for winterizing. It appears that you are connected to the fresh water connection............look for another. There should be a total of 3. 1 for the freshwater, 1 for black tank flush and 1 for winterizing.
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03-05-2019, 04:31 PM
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#3
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Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 10
M.O.C. #23472
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Thanks.
There are 3. Black tank flush, fresh water and city water. My understanding that the fresh water connection is also for winterizing. Well that's at least what I recall the dealer telling me and what I understand from reading the winterizing section in the owners manual. And I think I have all the 'setting's correct.
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03-05-2019, 04:57 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Oro Valley
Posts: 3,933
M.O.C. #20477
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The other option is to use a pump between your jug of antifreeze and the city water connection and put it in that way.
Its almost summer and time to get out.
__________________
Zack and Donna plus Millie and Ranger
2018 3160RL
"Life is too short to stay indoors, enjoy the ride!"
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03-05-2019, 04:59 PM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fowler
Posts: 414
M.O.C. #12748
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I don't understand both a fresh water AND a city water connection, do you know what the difference is? Does one go to the on board fresh water tank? The settings do appear to be correct so I don't think that is the culprit.
Another reason you could get antifreeze in the water heater is that your check valve in the exit side of your water heater is not functioning properly and allowing it to enter.
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03-05-2019, 05:53 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Marion
Posts: 115
M.O.C. #19116
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winterizing
Yes your Check valve on the exit or TOP out let of the water tank is bad. I changed mine in November for the same thing It take a 1" wrench and a long arm to get to it. You will have to take a few furnace heater hoses off to get to it. The upper hose connection is for winterizing along with the upper and middle valves. City water is for using the city water at a camp ground the same valve also fill the fresh water tank when using the lower valve.
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03-05-2019, 06:00 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,171
M.O.C. #6433
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I am guessing your labels are not positioned correctly. Or you are missing a label. City and fresh water should be one and the same. One of the others should be labeled something like Freezeguard. That is the winterizing port. I think most commonly the top one is for winterizing and middle for fresh/city water.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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03-05-2019, 08:49 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,702
M.O.C. #12947
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Most likely, your winterize inlet is at the top, the city/fresh inlet is in the middle, and the black tank flush is at the bottom. This is what ours looks like, and it is as I described. The winterize inlet is the one with the white cap at the top. Your fresh inlet, with the valve turned to the normal position is the way you use it when just using park water. When the valve is turned to Power Fill, the water from the hose goes to the fresh tank. Always return the valve to the normal position when done filling the tank. With the water heater bypass valve turned to bypass, you should not be getting any flow into the water heater tank. If you are, it's possible that the check valve on the hot water outlet of the water heater is stuck open, and is not blocking water from entering the tank backwards from the hot water line. If that is the case, you will need to replace that check valve before you can winterize using the winterize system valves.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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03-06-2019, 07:10 AM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: owen sound
Posts: 491
M.O.C. #17566
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|Chances are very good that you have a check valve that has failed at the Hot Water Tank, I had the same issue last year, no matter what I did the anti-freeze dumped out of the Hot Water tank. Pulled the panel off to get to the hwt and pulled off the upper check valve. As with most parts in the RV industry they put a cheap check valve in there with light plastic internals which failed. I installed a good quality brass check valve and in about 3 minutes had the rig winterized... Suspect you have the same issue....
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03-13-2019, 01:33 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Willis
Posts: 896
M.O.C. #20587
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Bob, Thanks for sharing your connections. I like what you have done with the extra connections even though it looks FUBAR.
__________________
2018 Montana 3791RD (SOLD)
2017 Ram 3500 DRW 6.7 Cummins Aisin, B&W RVK3600 (SOLD)
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03-14-2019, 09:44 AM
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#11
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Established Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Valparaiso
Posts: 18
M.O.C. #17508
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If you did put RV antifreeze in the water heater then you should flush it out with water a couple of times. The RV antifreeze is very corrosive to the anode rod.
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10-06-2022, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 134
M.O.C. #19913
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Where to buy the check valuve
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedster100
|Chances are very good that you have a check valve that has failed at the Hot Water Tank, I had the same issue last year, no matter what I did the anti-freeze dumped out of the Hot Water tank. Pulled the panel off to get to the hwt and pulled off the upper check valve. As with most parts in the RV industry they put a cheap check valve in there with light plastic internals which failed. I installed a good quality brass check valve and in about 3 minutes had the rig winterized... Suspect you have the same issue....
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I have a 2017 Montana and had not all but some of the antifreeze come out the waterheater. Where can you buy the check valve?
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10-06-2022, 06:28 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Anderson
Posts: 2,596
M.O.C. #22835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstadler
.... Where can you buy the check valve?
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Go to any RV dealership to their parts and service department. They'll have them. No doubt you have PEX plumbing. If you swap it out yourself, make sure you pick up the parts to connect the pipe and / or make sure you have the tools to crimp the clamps around the PEX joints.
I don't have the crimper tool, so any plumbing I've done in my camper I've used the type of connections that you screw on and tighten down without tools.
Be careful though if you use these and do not overtighten, or you can break them (don't ask how I know).
Here's one of the connections I used on our toilet line and another where I added an outside shower off the kitchen sink lines:
The second photo shows the original installed lines with where "they" used the band and crimped the connection joints. The white ones are the ones I used when I installed the outside shower. No special tools need, no crimping. Just make sure the PEX tubing is cut straight.
__________________
Who you are right now is a sum total off all you use to be.
2019 Montana High Country 375FL
2014 Chevy Silverado Duramax, 6.6L Dually
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10-06-2022, 06:59 PM
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#14
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Montana Fan
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 134
M.O.C. #19913
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Suburban SW12DEL Check valve
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchmenSport
Go to any RV dealership to their parts and service department. They'll have them. No doubt you have PEX plumbing. If you swap it out yourself, make sure you pick up the parts to connect the pipe and / or make sure you have the tools to crimp the clamps around the PEX joints.
I don't have the crimper tool, so any plumbing I've done in my camper I've used the type of connections that you screw on and tighten down without tools.
Be careful though if you use these and do not overtighten, or you can break them (don't ask how I know).
Here's one of the connections I used on our toilet line and another where I added an outside shower off the kitchen sink lines:
The second photo shows the original installed lines with where "they" used the band and crimped the connection joints. The white ones are the ones I used when I installed the outside shower. No special tools need, no crimping. Just make sure the PEX tubing is cut straight.
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Thanks I was winterizing my rig today and I think the check valve is leaking. I was getting some of the antifreeze entering the water heater. Where can I find a check value for the SW12DEL water heater? Thanks much.
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10-07-2022, 07:03 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Alton
Posts: 2,703
M.O.C. #24086
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I used compressed air to blow out the lines then pour antifreeze down the traps.
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10-07-2022, 11:18 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,750
M.O.C. #7560
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I'm with Daryles on the blowout method. 40-50 psi set on the compressor and open each faucet one at a time till no more water comes out. Same with the toilet then dump the pink stuff down the drains and a little down the toilet and leave some in the toilet to keep the gasket moist. Open the low point drains and leave open till no more water comes out then close.
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10-07-2022, 02:35 PM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,171
M.O.C. #6433
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And blow out your black tank flush line also. I always used antifreeze in mine. And I could still see the pink stuff in the opaque flush line pipes in the spring. It does not drain out so I would assume water doesn’t drain out either.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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10-07-2022, 06:19 PM
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#18
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: STUARTS DRAFT, VA
Posts: 140
M.O.C. #27830
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I used to do the "blow out and pour" method until one year a very small amount of water did not get blown out of some of the valving in the toilet. Spring required some toilet parts and a visit from a mobile tech.
Since then, I do the proscribed pink into the pipes method after dumping the hot water tank including removal of the anode rod and activating the bypass valve. I check that it comes out everywhere.
__________________
John and Carrie
2021 Montana 3121RL Legacy
2020 F-250 Lariat 4X4 Short 3.55
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10-07-2022, 07:30 PM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Northeast TX
Posts: 944
M.O.C. #30262
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I'm OCD - so I blow down all the lines at 40 - 45 psi, then pump the pink antifreeze. Never had issues even though the Texas deep freeze....
For the OP - I would think you could get a check valve for your hot water tank at the parts department at most any RV dealer.
__________________
Lee, Edith, Lil' Bit & Cuddles
22 MHC 331RL, Surge Guard 35550, SumoSprings, Kodiak disc brakes, 412Ah Lithium, Gen 3 Goosebox, Sailun 85s
22 Ram 3500 CC DRW 6.7 CTD Herrin Hauler Classic Bed, 45 gal AUX tank
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10-10-2022, 01:58 PM
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#20
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Established Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Epsom
Posts: 46
M.O.C. #29195
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Also, don't forget your washing machines lines! Even if you don't have a washer there is still water in those lines.
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2016 Montana 3710FL
2018 Ford F350 SRW
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