stair vents

[bigskyjimmy]

Thanx OZZ that explains alot on how the furnace works ,I was wondering that too why the furnace would not have enough air from the storage compartment

[oldelmer1]

OZZ,

Would it be feasible to use a duct to pipe return air from, say, under the step to the heater. This way the heated return air is going into the furnace via the duct and a filter, and you could still insulate and close off the really big holes going into the basement.

[Ozz]

It might, but I always think of the 'Law of unintended consequences' if it is below freezing, it is possible to freeze the lines running through the basement.
Bottom line (for me) is to leave the system they way it came out.

[Larry-P]

BIGRED715

Where in Mesa AZ are you ?? We're staying at the Mesa Regal park on Main street.

Starting to dry out today, Sunday.

[gkidsdlite]

quote:Originally posted by pineranch

We put the sun shield panels behind the steps to keep the cool air in and green filter material to help keep the cold out and act as our furnace filter. If its cold enough to need additional insulation, I head to warmer places.
Mike

AMEN brother!!!

[bigred715]

Larry, we are staying at Orangewood Shadows on University thru the end of March. This is our 3rd year.

[TAKPAK]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

It might, but I always think of the 'Law of unintended consequences' if it is below freezing, it is possible to freeze the lines running through the basement.
Bottom line (for me) is to leave the system they way it came out.

I'm sure I'll get in hot water here too, but I totally agree with Ozz. I retired from 31 years as chief engineer of a high rise building with lots of HVAC equipment. You never want to cut off the return to an air handler (furnace, etc) or "funny things happen". True, the return does go by the basement, to help keep that area from freezing. You might check the basement for possible openings to the outside that shouldn't be there. Loose pipes, gaps around things, etc. Also check the door seals on the outside doors, and see if they are leaking air when closed. In our 3400 I've never felt any cold air coming out of the return air vents. Hope this helps. We're in the NW too, "slightly" south of you, in the greater Portland metropolitan area, west side! Side note: One possibly side effect of reducing the air flow to the furnace would be "short cycling" of the unit. There is an overtemperature safety cutout device, and if not enough air gets to the unit, it will shut it down from overheating!

[fauch]

So what do you all think about the idea of the lightweight damper on basement side of the step vent? this would help to slow the drift of cooler air from the basement area into the living space.

This does not affect the draw of outside air through external leakage when the fan is running, which i believe is by design to help prevent CO accumulation, which is the major cause of accidental poisoning deaths in the US. Small air-tight spaces with gas furnaces scare the crapola-outa me!
I leave a center roof vent 'cracked' open ~1" when using the furnace, per the owners manual. This is why drafts from the slides have never bothered me. I always run either the fan-tastic vent or the stove vent fan when a stove burner is on. I also change the batteries in the CO monitor, Propane detector and smoke detector annually. I am a firm believer in bedmates (spouses, puppies, cats, etc.) and blankets vs a hot-box camper.
http://blog.rv.net/2011/09/rvs-pose-...oxide-dangers/

[Ozz]

fauch, if the damper swings freely, I don't see a problem with it.
It's good you are careful and on top of things.

[McIver]

How would I determine if the furnace is 'short cycling' due to overheating? Here is everything I have done to avoid freezing my lines AGAIN. I have recently put skirts on the rig to help with the furnace cycling on every 10 minutes all night when the temps are in the teens and below. I am more annoyed by the noise but don't appreciate the high propane consumption (about 2.5 gal./day) either. Have also stuffed insulation in every opening I could find in the underbelly. I have a shop light hanging in the convenience center which keeps it nice and warm. I have another shop light under the trailer to add some heat there. I have removed the panels in the storage area (it is now open to see the heater and all the pipes)and installed a small fan to blow into the basement. I have a space heater in the laundry basket which I run during the evening (prior to going to bed). Obsessive? (I am CDO. (Even alphabetize the letters in OCD))

[McIver]

Other than piping the exhaust from the heater into the skirted area below the trailer is there some genius way of moving heat from there to that area? Seems to me that there is lots of inefficiency there.

[TLightning]

I very seldom use the furnace and have blocked those 'vents' under the steps in the past. We use a couple of Lasko tower heaters (and the CG's electricity) rather than the furnace (and our propane.)

[Ozz]

I appreciate the problems you have and the inefficiency of the furnace: high propane use.
BUT, it is what it is. The trailer was designed for furnace use to keep things from freezing.
I like the steps you took to help keep it from freezing, but you must run the furnace.
Do not pipe the exhaust under the trailer or you will die. We do not want that. We like you.