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Old 10-22-2024, 09:54 AM   #21
Carl n Susan
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M.O.C. #4831
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikendebbie View Post
One floor jack? Where on the slide would you position it?
Good question. I originally thought the middle, but maybe just one end. It depends on how strong the inside edge of the slide appears to be. At the end will take some load off, maybe enough to let it move more easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
Could you use a ratchet strap or a come along to pull it over versus a butt bump?
More precise control of movement.
Another good suggestion. The trick will be to find two places to hook up to. I see some crawling under the slide in my future. Ugh!
 
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Old 10-22-2024, 03:29 PM   #22
Mikendebbie
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I had other things to do today besides mess with the Monte...maybe I will get out there tomorrow and find my bottle jacks and get to back to work on this. I was just thinking about the best way to jack the slide box up - middle or both sides (I think both sides will be best), and got to thinking about where the slide box bearing points were located, because those are the points where I have to overcome the COEFFICIENT of FRICTION where "the friction force, F, is proportional to the normal force, N, and the coefficient of friction, μ" - remember that??? No - I don't either and don't care...all I know is I need to lift the slide just a bit to reduce friction at the bearing points. The largest area of friction looks to be the wear bar. The gear packs and height adjustment bolt are small areas of friction. Maybe my BF (butt force) will overcome F (friction) and move the DB (damn box) by 1/4" or so to the rear. Here is a sketch that got me to thinking about friction! Let me know if you have advice (besides get someone younger and stronger to do this).
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Old 10-22-2024, 04:29 PM   #23
MandK
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My slide box on kitchen side is hollow bottom with aluminum stringers I think. I know there are some kind of stringers above a very thin bottom luan type plywood. If lifting on this type, be sure to lift on those stringers. If the slide is solid wood or osb bottom, not as critical I would think. I would just try to spread the load out a little. I had no problems lifting the kitchen slide to test fit or “practice” installing uhmw strips for install later on the run. That’s a story for another time. After that Exercise, I bumped the slide back about 1/2”. It was too far forward. So much so that the angle was too steep on the wiper seals and they would never flip on the front, I always had to stop the slide half way in or out and flip them with my fingers (no window frames on the kitchen slide to initiate flipping the seals.) Most times they would partially flip and then take a “set” like that and not seal the next time I ran them out. Anyways, it works now. I moved it about an 1/8” at a push then Had to wrap the inner tubes forward with a rubber mallet because I couldn’t overcome the coefficient of friction (LOL) at the vertical adjustment bolt. I did that until I got it where I wanted it. Next time I would try lifting a little further away from the wear bar to take more weight off the adjustment plates. That kitchen slide is heavy. Going back to the original issue here of the gear pack partially engaging the rack, moving the slide back or forth doesn’t change that. After the slide is positioned where you want it, you center up the inner and outer tubes and tighten up the bolts. If the gear isn’t in the middle of the gear pack, it might need shimming I’m guessing.
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Old 10-24-2024, 03:24 PM   #24
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Success! I jacked it up a bit on both ends and gave it a few hard pushes/bumps. Ran it in and out a few times…now I have 2” on both sides.

I used what I had in my bone yard…used CMU blocks to support the bottle jacks…2x8s under the bottom outside edges. Jacked both sides up until I could tell it was off the wear bar along most of the way…the middle of the floor had a slight bow and did not come up like then edges (just an observation). A few hard forward pushes worked better than trying the butt bump. Tightened the bolts back. Ran it in and out a few times. I will be watching it to see if it remains centered.

As you can see by the pic below that the slide had shifted forward and was contacting the fender. The red arrow points to a small crack in the fender.
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Old 10-24-2024, 05:01 PM   #25
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Terrific!!! I am going to try this on mine. First I have to finish packing bearings and get the wheels back on it.
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Old 11-01-2024, 09:22 PM   #26
pips063
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Can you tell me how many teeth on that gear pack, I need new BC I have broken teeth. Also I believe gear pack would be 2.5 X 2.5?
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Old 11-02-2024, 07:36 AM   #27
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Link for how to determine if you have a 2.5x2.5 thru the frame slide
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001908.pdf

Link for determining what gear pack you have installed:
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0001862.pdf

Link showing how to remove and replace a deflective gear :
https://youtu.be/0v68TJjvmkY?si=kfTvtBf48pRJ8JA5

** You also want to inspect the upper slide guide bar teeth for any evidence of broken/worn teeth... if damage is found you will need to remove and replace the guide bar assy as well
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