JT's Strong Arm stabilizers

[snfexpress]

We may have been one of the first to post on the JTRV stabilizers. We love them, but I agree that you should use bolts and nyloks, not the self-tappers. We didn't have to remove any part of the underbelly.

[Bob & Lee]

We talk all the time about how important it is to Chock the wheel good and better, but all agree it in important. I have been desiding on what to use with the JT's I have the yellow ones now but want some better,was walking around where we are parked and 9 out of 10 had NO chocks at all. the ground is flat but still takeing a big chance IMO.

Bob

[Lije Baley]

We had a chance to check out Ronnilou's Steadyfast.com stabilizers at the Buelton Rally and were impressed. We're game for less money!! They will be available soon. The best part for us is that we don't have to move our adjustable landing gear "foot" as it connects to only one side on the front for side to side and back to front movement as well as the back side to side bar. Really slick system!!!
Mariana

[bsmeaton]

Getting ready to install my stabilizers this weekend. As I feel the belly, is appears there is a crossmember behind the rear jacks? Anybody have hints for the 3400?

Also, the directions state it's acceptable to mount the front cross bars to the steel deck in the front cabinet (angled front but not real stout). Is that the typical install with the strengtheners they provide, or is a beef up in order?

[Mudchief]

Brad because of the cut out for the generator I did beef up the front. I did use the cross member in the back behind the jacks. I moved the jacks back 3.5 inches so It would be less than 8 inches from the cross member. That is easy to do.

[bsmeaton]

Thanks Dennis!

Guess I'm off to the hardware store.

[DL N K]

bsmeaton, please let us know how the install goes. I'm thinking the J T's will probably be our next purchase for our 3500. I'd love to be able to ditch the kingpin stabilizer.

[bsmeaton]

DLNK,

I will. Scared me off this weekend, so will try later. Got a little problem with my generator exhaust. It appears it may have enough clearance between the stabilizer and frame when it's up. If not, I may go to removing that arm when retracting by using pins instead of bolts.

Also a little nervous about hitting the rear stabilizer cross member through the belly skin - the fresh water tank is right next to it.

Brad

[dieselguy]

Brad: Which rear stabilizers do you have ... individual scissors or BAL unit? If you have the BAL stabilizers, you don't need to install the JT arms that go center to side, just the fore to aft. It would be redundant ... call JT , they'll tell you the same. There are two different kits depending on which rear stabilizers you have. As for the front compartment, as long as you bolt close to the bend in the metal, with the stiffener support supplied with the kit, you'll have no flex problems ... I don't.

[bsmeaton]

Dieselguy,

I have the telescoping type jacks - should be the same as yours. Did you just go from the foot forward to the main frame?

[garyka]

HAS ANYONE PUT THESE ON A 3295RT,IF SO HOW DIFFICULT WAS IT

[Bill and Lisa]

I installed the Plugright stablizers on the front landing gear this weekend. Still have to install the rear ones. Paid $289 for the set (6 struts, 2 per front leg and 1 each on the rear). Rear struts come with extended bolt to replace OEM bolt holding on the foot pad. All fore/aft supports line up nicely on the I-beam support. The legs that cross in the front of the unit are currently attached to the generator pan. The Plugrights are all attached (except the rear foot pad) using self drilling screws. Plan to get a piece of angle iron to reinforce the generator tray. Screws currently stick up into the tray area and can damage items stored in that area during travel. I am a little worried about the tightening handles during travel. Afraid they may come loose and I lose a handle but that concern would apply to the JT stablizers as well. I am considering removing the handles during travel and inserting them after extending the legs.
It was hard to tell a noticible difference in the stability of the unit as I had a very good/successful set up on Friday and between the BAL wheel chocks and the kingpin stablizer I had a really steady set up to start with.

I did not have to cut away and of the underbelly to mount the struts to the I- Beam.

Bill

[bsmeaton]

Bill,

Good idea on just removing the T handles. I do a lot of maneuvering around and don't want to have to tighten/loosen each time I want to run the landing gear. I was trying to think of a velcro strap I could use to keep them from falling out, but you have a better idea.

Thanks

[dieselguy]

Brad: The place you bought your JT's at should have asked if you have the one piece BAL type telescoping rear stabilizers or the individual scissor type jacks ... the JT kits are different depending on which you have. There are no center to side arms for the rear in the kit for the BAL type rear stabilizers ... there's no need for them as the BAL stabilizers already brace center to side by design. My kit came with 4 arms for the front and 2 arms for the rear. It's rock solid compared to using chocks and tripod, plus you don't have to drag all that other stuff around anymore. There's still some up and down movement, but well it is an RV. As for securing the T Pins, I found just the thing for them at Walmart back by the automotive and towing section. They are velcro straps 12" long with a hole in one end ... perfect for slipping the T Pin through and securing. They come in a package of 10 I believe. I've used them for over a year and haven't lost one.

[campbud]

I just snug my handles up ...if loose the pipes will rattle going down the road.

[bsmeaton]

Dieselguy, thanks for the tip on the straps! Wallmart is close.

I did get the kit for the BAL telescoping rear stabilizers, but I'm getting quite a different story from JT on doing the rear.

[Mudchief]

Brad, the people at JT told me I also needed the back one's. They also told me that the cross brace that I mounted to should be no more than 8 inches back from the jacks. That is why I moved the back jacks back 3.5 inches. They told me 80% of the movement would be corrected with the front setup.

[Bill and Lisa]

Update: heard from the manufacturer on the Plugright. They said don't remove the handles, just snug them tight. Three trips with them in place and no loose handles so it works just fine, hand tightening the handles.

Bill

[Bob & Lee]

I have a 07 3400 w/rear telescoping stabilizers. My JT's are on order I printed the Installation Instructions, on page 27 Ref: the rear stabilizers it says and shows photo for them to be put from side to center on both types of stabilizers? sounds like w/telescoping, front to rear would be more stable? need to call the experts, anyone have experence with either installation?

Bob

[Bob & Lee]

Just got my answer from the JT's company, I will share it with all.
Hello Bob:
Thanks for the business! These stabilizers will make your rig so much more comfortable and virtually eliminate all of that side-to-side and front-to-back movement that is SO annoying!
Here's the deal on placement. The instructions are correct. The set of four stabilizers installed in the front of the coach stop both side-to-side and front-to-back for the portion of the coach in front of the axle.
The rear stabilizers are for stopping side-to-side movement in the rear of the rig - aft of the axle - and are to be installed as close to 90 degrees to the side frame rails as is practical – that’s why we specify that the cross-member they attach to should be no farther away than 18” –at max. This would put the stabilizers at about a 45 degree angle, but still angling toward the center of the rig heading aft. Remember, the tires are full of air, and the rims move in and out of the tires and the axle acts as a fulcrum and pivot point as the coach sits there with you inside.
We get lots of calls during the day about installing and I know that I nor either of my partners would ever recommend installing the rear stabilizers front-to-back along the frame rails. Now having said that, I will say that in our early days of mfg and testing we actually had installed a set that way and there were some photos published showing that install and this may have caused some confusion.
However, more than 2 years ago, after much testing and various configurations, we settled on our present kit of 6 stabilizers and the configuration shown on our web site and in all of our brochures.
We have had customers assume they knew how to install and did not follow the instructions…then send me photos of their install and I had to tell them it was not correct and that we could not guarantee maximum benefit from our system installed that way.
I know there are a lot of rumors, chatter and potential misinformation that goes on in the various forums on the net. The frustrating part for me is that I am prohibited from jumping into the middle of the discussion and righting some wrongs or misconceptions as commercial enterprises are prohibited from participating (legally and honestly) and we are both!
Bob, we are here to serve you and to help you get the most out of JT’s Strong Arm Jack Stabilizers™ so, feel free to call us anytime…especially if you have any questions regarding the install or setup of the system. Let me know how it goes for you and send me some photos (showing proper installation :-) )

Kind regards,
Lou Hecker
Sales and Marketing Director
JT’s RV Accessories-Enhanced Comfort and Stability for your RV Lifestyle
www.jtrv.com
Lou’s Desk: 530-347-3637
Email: lhecker@jtrv.com
Corporate Offices: 805-434-3112
Toll Free (USA): 1-888-587-JTRV (5878)