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Old 06-18-2020, 07:47 PM   #1
TAG51
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Slide Seals

I have 2016 3610RL with slide seals that need replacing. Specifically the seals which mount to the slide, not the coach, have been torn up by what I'm not sure. I think they are called "Bulb" seals as opposed to "wiper" seals ( mounted on the coach). I have watched videos demonstrating replacing these seals on other rv models but none on the Montana. I'm looking for any input on A) how this is done and B) where can I purchase these seals.

I would like to tackle this myself as opposed to taking it to a shop.

Any input is appreciated
 
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:22 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by TAG51 View Post
I have 2016 3610RL with slide seals that need replacing. Specifically the seals which mount to the slide, not the coach, have been torn up by what I'm not sure. I think they are called "Bulb" seals as opposed to "wiper" seals ( mounted on the coach). I have watched videos demonstrating replacing these seals on other rv models but none on the Montana. I'm looking for any input on A) how this is done and B) where can I purchase these seals.

I would like to tackle this myself as opposed to taking it to a shop.

Any input is appreciated
Pictures?
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Old 06-19-2020, 06:24 AM   #3
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Answer B: trekwood.com. Answer A: Never done it but think it is easy as I have seen post on procedure many times. Try a search.
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Old 06-19-2020, 12:40 PM   #4
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Bulb seals are super easy to replace and not take to a dealer. I bought the bulb seals used on my 2013 montana from La mesa RV, but the material can be found lots of places. It just slides into a groove once two screws are removed. Go for it! My bulb seal was 018-338-blk and might have been an AP Products seal...can't remember. Comes in 50 foot roll. Mine started to melt...
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Old 06-19-2020, 01:46 PM   #5
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I will get pictures soon. I think they are 018-338-blk secondary seals but will get a cross section to be sure. Thanks.
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Old 06-19-2020, 01:49 PM   #6
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Your part number 018-338-blk looks about right. I will get the old one off first then get a cross section to be sure. Always nervous when dealing with issue for the first time.
Good recommendation.
Thank You!!
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:24 PM   #7
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Tony---I've replace some of mine because of age and the sun causing them to get brittle. It's an easy job as long as you have a ladder to reach the top of the slide edge. You remove one or two screws and just slide the old gasket out and the new gasket in and then replace the screws that hold the gasket in place. Did one last winter down in AZ and it might have taken me 30 minutes at the most from start to finish. I knew I had to replace some of them so I bought a whole roll of the gasket from the dealer, measured out the length I needed and cut it with a box knife and a square. I also now use 303 lubricant on all of my gaskets or rubber seals to keep them pliable and soft.
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Old 06-19-2020, 08:57 PM   #8
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On my 2010 it was the same as decribed above, couple of screws and slide them in. Got the material from a local RV dealer in Florida.
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Old 06-19-2020, 09:25 PM   #9
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I think when I replaced mine, I had to remove that square plate like thing in the bottom corner. Maybe that is what has the 2 screws in it. In any case it was an easy thing to do.
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Old 06-20-2020, 12:13 PM   #10
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One screw at the top, which is hard to get to if you have slide toppers...but can be done. One screw at the bottom.
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:40 PM   #11
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I think my dealer called them "D" seals. One of mine didn't last a year. I suspect rough roads caused the slide to move and stress the seal that's squeezed between the slide and coach. My seal is not old and dried. That's my theory. Glad they're easy to replace.
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:50 PM   #12
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I think my dealer called them "D" seals. One of mine didn't last a year. I suspect rough roads caused the slide to move and stress the seal that's squeezed between the slide and coach. My seal is not old and dried. That's my theory. Glad they're easy to replace.
I don't think rough roads would damage the bulb seals. I think perhaps your slide needs adjusting because it closes a little too tight - maybe???
I average 9-10,000 miles a year and haven't had bulb seals split or break except maybe once after 40-50,000 miles.
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:02 PM   #13
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I will get pictures soon. I think they are 018-338-blk secondary seals but will get a cross section to be sure. Thanks.
That is the number that i documented when I replaced my seals. The number is written on the tool that I made for easier installation. Easier on the fingers and not sharp like a screwdriver. See pictures
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Old 06-25-2020, 09:48 AM   #14
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My dad and I replaced his. He ordered the seal (it comes in a roll) online. It wasn't hard to replace. Just a little cutting and cleaning. Then slip into place .
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Old 01-05-2021, 06:20 PM   #15
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I'm reviving this thread because I need to replace the bulb seal on my slides. My problem is that I have roll up slide toppers and the roll is directly in front of the screws that need to be removed to replace the bulb seal. Looking for ideas on how to handle. There seems to be a lot of torque on the roll which makes me leery of removing the end arm.
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Old 01-05-2021, 06:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by GAinaMontana View Post
I'm reviving this thread because I need to replace the bulb seal on my slides. My problem is that I have roll up slide toppers and the roll is directly in front of the screws that need to be removed to replace the bulb seal. Looking for ideas on how to handle. There seems to be a lot of torque on the roll which makes me leery of removing the end arm.
Open slide then manually unroll the slide topper and put a cotter pin through the arm which will stop the tension spring from unloading. Remove screws on wall pinning the fabric, pull the fabric out, change the gasket and reverse the process.
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Old 01-05-2021, 06:50 PM   #17
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Maybe I'm not understanding your post but it is not the fabric that is in the way, it is the roll itself.
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Old 01-06-2021, 10:10 AM   #18
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Just replaced my bedroom bulb seals due to Florida sun damage again. I was able to get the vertical bulb seal out, but the horizontal one was a bear. Instead of trying to remove the slide topper tube, which on my 3800 is super long, I removed a short piece of the bulb seal being held in by the screw and then used a Drexel to grind the screw point that bites into the back of the bulb seal. Was a crappy job to do. I didn't try to remove the roller tube for fear that I would not be able to do it by myself and I have heart issues. I did not try to find a u-tube video of how to safely remove the roller tube in order to easily change the seal. But I will when faced with doing one of the other slides.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:47 AM   #19
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I think what bleedmichigan was suggesting is to turn the roll by hand enough to release tension, then use the cotter pin to prevent the roll from springing back. I used a very small phillips screwdriver in the hole on the end to stop the roll from turning. Either way, once tension is off the roll, you can remove it and carefully lay it on top of the slide out of the way. Get the work done, then put it back on by reversing the process of removing it. It's actually easier than it sounds. I'm in heart failure also, and was able to do mine by myself.
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Old 01-08-2021, 11:42 AM   #20
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Thanks for the suggestions. I put the side seal on by removing the bottom plastic triangle and feeding from the bottom. At the top I pulled the seal out of the track an over the screw. I then manually pushed the seal in above the screw with a screwdriver. The topper roll and bracket block the screws at both triangles at the top. I would like to remove at least one of the brackets to remove one triangle and I could jump the screws on the other end like the vertical seal. Robert, could you be more specific about how to lock the spring loaded shaft. There are several holes at the end of the roller. My topper has approximately a 3/8" shaft coming out the end and locks into the bracket with a k-clip.
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