Battery Charging - how to test

[RickyRobert]

Diagnostics - rig is only drawing 1 amp on both lines when connected to 50 amp shore power. Battery drain slow but constant with just the interior lights on, even when connected to shore power. (Accelerated the battery drain by utilizing the landing gear, taking the twin batteries down to 12.1 volts.)
Confirmed by solar monitor of battery, landing gear control panel monitor, and voltage meter attached directly to batteries. All three are giving out the same (declining) number(s). Shore power made no difference to battery drain nor declining voltage readings. Converter circuit breaker is on and toggling off/on made no difference. Can't hear the "click on" or the fan from the converter as did with my last two fivers. HOWEVER, there appears to be a blinking orange led light inside the electrical panel just above the converter's circuit breaker. Is this a fault indicator, by any chance? Still under warranty, but if could narrow in on converter failure would make convincing the service center a lot easier. BTW, batteries picked up charge while under tow. Thanks

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by RickyRobert

Diagnostics - rig is only drawing 1 amp on both lines when connected to 50 amp shore power. Battery drain slow but constant with just the interior lights on, even when connected to shore power. (Accelerated the battery drain by utilizing the landing gear, taking the twin batteries down to 12.1 volts.)
Confirmed by solar monitor of battery, landing gear control panel monitor, and voltage meter attached directly to batteries. All three are giving out the same (declining) number(s). Shore power made no difference to battery drain nor declining voltage readings. Converter circuit breaker is on and toggling off/on made no difference. Can't hear the "click on" or the fan from the converter as did with my last two fivers. HOWEVER, there appears to be a blinking orange led light inside the electrical panel just above the converter's circuit breaker. Is this a fault indicator, by any chance? Still under warranty, but if could narrow in on converter failure would make convincing the service center a lot easier. BTW, batteries picked up charge while under tow. Thanks

First of all the batteries are close to dead. It sounds like the converter is not working. The blinking light is the current charge program. Your documents will have a manual that tells you what it means. Are you sure the disconnect switch is in the correct position. Double check by having somebody change it while you meter the battery posts. If the voltage goes up then the switch is ON. You probably have hybrid batteries. You want deep cycle. 2 Trojan T105's was what I had before Lithium. HUGE difference. Also if you do not have a battery monitor get one. NEVER let batteries discharge more than 50%, ideally 30%. If the batteries have the initials CCA or MCA or the word CRANK anywhere on the battery they are the wrong kind.

[AZ Traveler]

Confirm your batteries are not disconnected via the key switch just forward of the convenience center.

[RMcNeal]

The converter has reverse polarity fuses that protect against connecting the battery backwards. They may be blown. Even a quick touch of the terminals in reverse polarity will blow them. I have the PD4500 series converter and it has ATC type fuses that are easily accessible from the panel inside. On mine, there are 3 25 amp fuses at the far right side of the row of DC fuses. You can find manuals and the troubleshooting documents at progressivedyn.com website.
If you cannot find them, PM me and I can email you the ones I have if yours is also a PD4500 series converter.

[IamMatt]

Adding for future reference here... we just took delivery (May of 2021) of a brand new 2021 Montana HC 335BH with the factory SolarFlex installed and it came with a Victron 100/30 MPPT charger and Victron 500A SmartShunt, both having Bluetooth connectivity (haven’t gotten a chance to check panel manufacturer/specs yet) Was a pleasant surprise 😁

[RickyRobert]

Long story short - PD4575 Power Center (Converter) replaced under warranty, then the shore poser / generator Transfer Switch replaced under warranty, and then the 50 amp (infamous) Circuit Breaker replaced when wouldn't stop tripping out (my cost, since "fuses" are not covered under warranty. Hey, my slides and leveling system finally work! I've also installed the Renogy 500 amp Battery Monitor, which leads me to another question - the only connections from the RV wiring to the negative terminal of the battery is the generator's, the inverter's, and the ground to frame. All other non-positive terminus wiring in the battery compartment goes to the frame, some via independent ground screws but two to the same frame screw as the battery ground. Hence the Renogy can only be of real value for the inverter draw. How are others getting their battery monitoring shunts to connect to the other electrical systems, including charging, to get a complete picture? p.s., Renogy tech support says leave the battery ground to frame alone. Thanks

[66 Galaxie]

Originally Posted by RickyRobert

Long story short - PD4575 Power Center (Converter) replaced under warranty, then the shore poser / generator Transfer Switch replaced under warranty, and then the 50 amp (infamous) Circuit Breaker replaced when wouldn't stop tripping out (my cost, since "fuses" are not covered under warranty. Hey, my slides and leveling system finally work! I've also installed the Renogy 500 amp Battery Monitor, which leads me to another question - the only connections from the RV wiring to the negative terminal of the battery is the generator's, the inverter's, and the ground to frame. All other non-positive terminus wiring in the battery compartment goes to the frame, some via independent ground screws but two to the same frame screw as the battery ground. Hence the Renogy can only be of real value for the inverter draw. How are others getting their battery monitoring shunts to connect to the other electrical systems, including charging, to get a complete picture? p.s., Renogy tech support says leave the battery ground to frame alone. Thanks

As long as the only thing connected to the battery negative is the Shunt you should be reading everything pulled from the battery.

[RickyRobert]

Unfortunately, it looks as if with no other "negative" terminals to connect to the shunt output the unit cannot read their flow. This includes the converter's charge circuit (Renogy's installation instructions specifically state to connect the charger's negative to the shunt output) and the normal 12V systems. I'm guessing here, but I'm thinking that everything else is grounded to the frame which is also connected back to the battery's negative post. While I'm somewhat reluctant to do it, I'm wondering what would be the result of taking the battery's ground wire off the battery (leaving the wire connected to the frame) and then connecting it to the output of the shunt to complete the missing circuits. Alternatively, removing the other systems ground wires from the frame and connecting them to the output of the shunt. BUT, before I do either I was wanting to hear back from someone who has already gone through the installation telling me what they did. Alternatively, I'm thinking of waiting until I can review with a tech in person.

[66 Galaxie]

I believe that's incorrect. Look up the victron smart shunt installation instructions.

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...rtShunt-EN.pdf

This is how we wire everything. As long as the grounds get to the frame and the frame gets to the austen side of the shunt it should work.