Dometic reefer 'Check' light on?

[Ozz]

Problem. Unit controls go to "check"
There is a common problem with, Dometic RM2807 or RM2811 and most later model Dometics with upper controls. The refrigerator's "check light" comes on or the refrigerator just shuts down seemingly for no reason. Another common problem occurs while on 120v. The refrigerator might switch to gas or just shut down even while you have a good 120v supply.
Answer. Dometic RV refrigerators with the push button upper control boards have a problem with the main power boards. The power board components are encased in yellow epoxy, reducing heat transfer. This tends to cause them to run too hot which in turn can often cause the power board to fail completely or cause problems such as listed above. We have found the only effective repair is to replace the power board. We do not use the Dometic replacement as they too can fail. The Dometic replacement also requires you to rewire the board and gas valve. The only board we recommend is the P-711. The P-711 not only will fix these problems but does not require the rewiring. It uses all the standard wiring.

Ripped off from the Internet..

[1Happycamper]

Thanks Ozz, that is good information.

[Countryfolks]

Which 'P-711', the Dinosaur?

[Ozz]

quote:Originally posted by Countryfolks

Which 'P-711', the Dinosaur?

Yepper:
http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcar...below-p-6.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-P-71...-/390467242029
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Dinosaur-Electronics-MICRO-P-711-Dometic-Replacement-Circuit-Board-Camper-Trailer-RV_p_1775.html

[sreigle]

Have heard for years that the best replacement for any of the appliance boards is a Dinosaur board. Thoughts anyone?

[Countryfolks]

Hi Steve'
I Had to replace a reefer board on SOB a number of years ago. It was cheaper than the OEM and had a good rep then. Don't know if it's 'the best' though, probably the best known.

[travelRN]

Hi I have a 2010 Montana. No problems until we parked it and put holiday food in frig to have a second place. Then it quit working. It flashes Li and then OP. The manual says it means the High temp switch is stuck open. I need to use the trailer with my traveling RN and have a husband that fixes everything himself. Is there a way to fix this without taking it to a dealer and forking over a lot of money. Thanks

[snfexpress]

Another reason you may get a check light is if your 12 volt supply is not able to supply the required voltage to the control board because the batteries are low and you are either boon docking or, if hooked up to shore power, your converter is blown.

Both Norcold and Dometic refrigerators require 12 volts DC even if you are running them on 120 volts AC.

[Ozz]

quote:Originally posted by travelRN

Hi I have a 2010 Montana. No problems until we parked it and put holiday food in frig to have a second place. Then it quit working. It flashes Li and then OP. The manual says it means the High temp switch is stuck open. I need to use the trailer with my traveling RN and have a husband that fixes everything himself. Is there a way to fix this without taking it to a dealer and forking over a lot of money. Thanks

Try killing the power to it, both 12 and 120, then check it. If it still doesn't work, take the switch out and replace it. That is a critical safety, so don't by-pass it. You can order one on line, have it overnighted.
Good luck.
Ozz