Wheels stuck on truck - Montana Owners Club

Ozz · 03-10-2010, 03:19 AM

I got two new tires on my Super Duty, when they tried to get them off, no joy.. I watched them pounding on my tires from both sides with a sledge hammer. I got the shop manager and asked "Wazzzup?"
He said that happens all of the time with alloy wheels, I told him to remove all 4 wheels, wire brush the contact points and wipe a thin coat of grease on the and torque the nuts to the proper degree. He agreed.
This would not be good on the side of the road, TV, or Trailer wheels.
Here is something on that subject.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f465...ims-49030.html

PapaBeav · 03-10-2010, 03:49 AM

Thanks for the info Ozz, I have never heard of such a thing. But out here in California we don't have ice and snow so we don't have to deal with all the chemicals that they put on the roads in the winter time.

Ozz · 03-10-2010, 03:58 AM

Lonnie, do you run across this out there?

Trailer Trash 2 · 03-10-2010, 04:00 AM

Is this caused by two different types of metal reacting to each other Ozz. Is it the holes that the studs go through that are closeing up that is causing this problem of having to beating the tires off the truck? Maybe applying a little greese on the threds before the wheels are put back on again, when I Cregar Mags on my 67 Ranchreo they used to put a greese on the threds and the lug nuts.

Ozz · 03-10-2010, 04:09 AM

This is a galling problem, cast iron with alloy, it's the flat surfaces chemically bonding.

LonnieB · 03-10-2010, 04:23 AM

Yes Ozz, it is fairly common even out here in this arid country. When we come across one of these vehicles, we do remove all the wheels, clean everything with a wire brush, then apply a light coat of Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant.

Art-n-Marge · 03-10-2010, 05:26 AM

Does this NOT happen with steel wheels? only Alloy?

I have not experienced anything remotely close to this and I rotate my Alloy wheels myself every 5,000 miles. My truck book does suggests a drop of oil on the nuts before reinstalling them but that might help removing the nuts but I don't think it would help with the wheel seizing to the hub face since the nuts are on the outside. I've just been lucky I guess. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to add a few seconds to a rotation job by applying a little bit of the Permatex stuff before remounting the wheel.

Should one be concerned about this with the Monty, too? It has alloy wheels mounted against cast iron brake drums in that case and I have never added any oil or grease since it was never mentioned in the trailer manual.

clarkandsheila · 03-10-2010, 07:22 AM

I too have had wheels freeze to the drum/disc surfaces. Aluminum and steel wheels will both freeze. I live in rain country. Grease or antiseeze painted on the contact surfaces will stop it. I also put a really light coat on the stud threads and on the nut cones faces to stop the rusting.

Ozz · 03-10-2010, 07:22 AM

Thanbks Lonnie.
I would say the Montana is worth a look as well, but haven't had any problems, and I have personally changed my set twice.

Mudchief · 03-10-2010, 08:31 AM

Ozz, I have not had any problem with the Montana but have on the truck. I carry a block of wood and a small sledge. I put grease between them and it helped but I still need the wood and sledge. However they do come off with less effort. I will try the grease on the studs and see if that helps.

sreigle · 03-10-2010, 03:39 PM

I've not had the seize problem but the road service for a blowout on the way down here used an air gun to tighten the lug nuts when mounting my spare to the trailer. I was doing something on the other side when I realized he was really torquing them down. I should have told him to just snug them and I'd take it from there, but I didn't. When I finally got a new rim to replace the cracked one and a new tire from Tireco I had a devil of a time getting the lug nuts broke loose. My 24 inch breaker bar with me behind it was not nearly enough. I had to go find a five foot pipe to put over my breaker bar. Even then it was tough loosening those lug nuts.

I hadn't thought about needing anti-seize even when properly torqued. I'll have to get some of that. We also have the alloy rims.

Bill-N-Donna · 03-11-2010, 12:53 AM

I took our M/H we once had to our local mechanic for some work. They were trying to remove the rear wheels and removed the outer wheel and the inside wheel was stuck. I observed them trying to get it broke loose with a sledge hammer to no avail. Later on they discovered it had its own set of lug nuts.

Ozz · 03-11-2010, 01:23 AM

Oops! I bet someone was embarrassed on that deal.

Bill-N-Donna · 03-11-2010, 09:03 AM

If they were they didn’t act much like it. They mostly complained about the M/H taking up so much room during the time it was there.

Ozz · 03-11-2010, 09:31 AM

Nice...

tbhd2 · 03-11-2010, 06:26 PM

We used to loosen the lug nuts a little just to the point where they are not contacting the rim then turn a few corners, in the driveway, and that will usually loosen the wheel. Better than beating on them with a sledge hammer.

Tom S. · 03-12-2010, 12:01 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by tbhd2

We used to loosen the lug nuts a little just to the point where they are not contacting the rim then turn a few corners, in the driveway, and that will usually loosen the wheel. Better than beating on them with a sledge hammer.

I don't know. Beating something with a sledge hammer can be very therapeutic!

I do know that living in Michigan (home of winter road salt) all my life, has made me a firm believer in using Permatex Anti-sieze on any wheel.

SlickWillie · 03-12-2010, 01:18 AM

Only problem I have had is with the TV. GM wheels are hub centric. How about the Fords and Dodges? The center hub is what always hangs for me. A dab of grease will help solve that problem. I learned about hub centric the hard way. Bought a set of rims for a Yukon that were not hub centric; expense lesson learned.

Jdrobone · 04-29-2010, 12:07 PM

Careful with the anti-seize on the threads, fellas. If you google a query concerning the relationship between torque and the amount of pressure exerted on bolts when lubed versus dry you will find that lubing a lug nut and torquing to the same value will result in over-tightening that nut - thus stretching the bolt.

Ozz · 04-29-2010, 12:18 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Jdrobone

Careful with the anti-seize on the threads, fellas. If you google a query concerning the relationship between torque and the amount of pressure exerted on bolts when lubed versus dry you will find that lubing a lug nut and torquing to the same value will result in over-tightening that nut - thus stretching the bolt.

Food for thought. It sounds reasonable to me, because the 'standard' for torque specs is dry, not lubed.

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