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Old 01-03-2010, 05:53 AM   #1
jackel1959
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WINTERIZING CHECKLIST

This will eventually get posted over on the "MOC RV Related Links" page but it was suggested I post it here as well so that members could search for it in the archives. I also have it in Word format so if you e-mail me I can get it to you. This checklist is adapted from the Winterizing video on the Keystone website.

Jack

WINTERIZING BLOW OUT HOSE ADAPTER

The hose is just a piece of garden hose with an air compressor fitting in one end.

WINTERIZING CHECKLIST (COMPRESSED AIR METHOD)


CAUTION: DO NOT EXCEED 30 PSI AIR PRESSURE!!!

ENSURE THE HOLDING TANKS HAVE BEEN EMPTIED AT AN APPROVED WASTE WATER DUMP STATION PRIOR TO BEGINING.

1. Connect the special hose adapter to the “BLACK TANK FLUSH” input of the trailer and the other end to the air compressor. Blow out the BLACK TANK FLUSH line.

2. Open the LOW POINT drains and all the faucets in the trailer including the outside shower and allow them to drain. Leave all faucets open until finished.

3. Open the valve for the FRESH WATER tank and allow it to drain completely. Once completely empty, turn the WATER PUMP “ON” for about 30 seconds to clear any water from the suction lines and pump.

WARNING: ENSURE THE WATER IN THE WATER HEATER TANK IS COOL BEFORE PROCEEDING TO STEP 4!!!

4. Verify the WATER HEATER is OFF, both gas and electric, then remove the drain plug and open the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE to allow the tank to drain. After completely empty, turn the WATER HEATER BYPASS VALVE to the “BYPASS” position.

5. If equipped with a water filter, remove and discard the cartridge. Drain the water from the cartridge holder and reinstall.

6. Connect the special hose adapter to the FRESH WATER INLET of the trailer and the other end to the air compressor. Blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of any of the fixtures and lines.

7. Hold open the toilet valve to allow the water to clear from the toilet supply line.

8. Open the diverter valve on the shower faucet to clear the water from the shower hose and head. Do the same for the outside shower (if equipped).

9A. If no washer/dryer is installed: Open the hot and cold valves to allow water to clear the supply lines. Use a suitable container to catch the water.

9B. If equipped with a washer/dryer: Turn the washer on to the fill cycle and select the warm water setting. Allow air to blow through the lines until no water comes through.

10. Pour about 1 quart of RV Anti-Freeze in to each drain, p-trap and toilet (including the washer drain). Leave a little anti-freeze in the toilet bowl to maintain the air seal.

11. Once all water is removed from the lines and tanks, close all lines, faucets and valves to the system.

12. Reinstall the WATER HEATER drain plug and close the PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. A sign by the ON/OFF for the WATER HEATER switches is a good idea to remind you and others the tank is empty.

13. Remove the air compressor adapter from the freshwater inlet.
 
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:35 AM   #2
The Old Fogies
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Thanks for the check list. I did mine yesterday.. I'll go back and do it by the checklist to make sure I got it right.
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:33 PM   #3
jackel1959
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I neglected to do the outside shower earlier this year and ended up replacing the shower controls after our first cold snap. Now I have a checklist to follow. Live and learn.
Jack
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:40 PM   #4
HughM
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Jack, Thanks for the best and most detailed winterize check list that I've ever seen.
Hugh
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:03 AM   #5
bill maietta
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Thanks Jack. I have an 04 3400rl. Do I have a water heater bypass valve? Where are the lowpoint drain controls and how do I work the shower diverter/ I live near Miami and have never had to winterize,,,till now.....thank you very much
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:06 AM   #6
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Thanks Jack I gave a copy to my sister SOB.
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bill maietta

Thanks Jack. I have an 04 3400rl. Do I have a water heater bypass valve? Where are the lowpoint drain controls and how do I work the shower diverter/ I live near Miami and have never had to winterize,,,till now.....thank you very much
Bill,
On your Model year 3400RL, I believe your water heater bypass valve is located at the back of your water heater. You will only have a shower diverter valve if you have a shower/tub combo in the bath. The shower diverter valve is what you lift on the tub spigot to divert the water to the shower head. I am not sure where the low point drains are located at on your model. Someone with a similar rig should be along soon to help. In the meantime check out the video entitled "Winterize your RV" at this Keystone link: Video Library. It will give you a good visualization of everything that is talked about in the checklist and it is the video the checklist was written from.
Jack


Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2

Thanks Jack I gave a copy to my sister SOB.
Don,
I don't know if the checklist will work on an SOB!!!
Jack
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:57 PM   #8
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THanks, for the list. I had forgot about the washer connections, as we don't have a washer.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:03 AM   #9
KathyandDave
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Thanks to Jack for this list. It's the best I've found, by a long shot. A couple of items for consideration:
With a small compressor, I probably can't leave all the lines open to blow them out all at once, so I'll have to close them all and open them one-by-one.
I presume I should also clear the fresh water tank fill line.
Is the hot water tank bypass valve located behind the command centre? If so, what's the best way to clear the line returning from the tank? I'm considering, after emptying the tank of water, to blow air into it, like any faucet, let it drain the bit of water that flows in from the supply line, then re-seal the tank (anode in, high-pressure valve closed), then blow it out through any hot water outlet (maybe the hot water low point drain). Since it will take all the volume of my compressor to fill the tank and get pressure in the outlet line, I'll do this first, then set the tank valve to bypass and carry on with the rest of the unit.
But, how do I blow out the water pump lines from the fresh-water tank to the pump and from the pump to the city water inlet?

Comments would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:46 AM   #10
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Hey Kathy and Dave... just curious. What is your compressor? I had a small 110v unit and got so tired of the limitations and how slow it was I finally went out and bought a bigger one and gave the little one to my daughter so she would check her tires more often (we both hated the unreliable service station ones).

My new one is a Porter-Cable 135psi, 6 gallon pancake compressor that delivers 2.6 cfm @ 90 psi. Probably .8 cfm @ 30psi. It works great for everything (filling tires, blowing things clean, etc.), but if I ever need to blow out the lines, it's not enough to use for air tools, but would it be enough for blowing out the lines, if only 30 psi is needed (really, only 30 psi)? I take this one on RV trips and hope to get a bigger one to operate air tools to make my vehicle and trailer maintenance procedures a lot quicker.

I guess if any compressor delivers 30psi then it shouldn't matter since 30psi is 30psi and larger compressors allow for higher psi. Do I understand this correctly?

Jackel1959... that's a great checklist, but I have a questions/suggestions about #4. Even though I use filters, the hot water tank always seems to develop sediment deposits. I would add that a cleanout wand (with a filter) be used to flush out all this sediment so that the empty hot water heater is not stored with this crap in it. However, the plug is a little high so there is always some water left behind. Do you have any suggestion to remove the water that sits on the bottom of the tank? For those in very cold climate isn't this water a concern? Do you have this problem in your H/W tank?

I drain my H/W tank when I park it after every outing (it is stored on my driveway), but this remaining water has always kinda bothered me. Does anyone have a suggestion about this even if not winterizing?

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Old 11-06-2011, 08:56 AM   #11
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Art makes an excellent point regarding the wand to clean out the water heater. After two seasons, I bought the cleaning wand and was amazed how much junk came out. I flushed it for quite a while until nothing but clean water came out. I use a larger air compressor that develops about 4 cfm @ 90 psi and I still blow out one faucet at a time. I regulate my PRV to 40 psi on the air compressor when blowing out the water supply lines.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by KathyandDave[/i]
But, how do I blow out the water pump lines from the fresh-water tank to the pump and from the pump to the city water inlet?
For this, I attached the air supply to the Winterize inlet, opened the cold low point drain and ran the pump. Lots of water came out!
Monty is sleeping...
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:46 PM   #13
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Here is another one for the checklist.

Make sure you raise and drop the landing gear with the tank valves open. I discovered there was still water in all 3 tanks even though I had drained with unit level.

My Monty was on a full hookup site for the summer. Winterized on-site blowing the lines, pink stuff, draining water heater and draining the tanks. When I got home I decided to open the valves as recommended; Surprise there was still about 3 Gals total in all 3 tanks. By elevating and lowering the front I was able to get the remaining water. Glad I had a bucket handy!

... Jeff
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:40 PM   #14
KathyandDave
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Good one, Jeff. More to do, now...
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:33 PM   #15
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Great information. One note to add if I may. When I drain my hot water tank I use a three foot piece of clear vinyl tubing (available at most any hardware store) and siphon the water from the bottom of the tank. The drain is about 1" to 1.5" ABOVE the bottom of the water tank. There is always a little water left behind. By using the tube I am able to remove the last little bit of water and suck out some of the calcium debris left behind. Then I allow a little RV antifreeze into the tank for good measure. Come springtime I just flush the tank like the rest of the water system.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:57 PM   #16
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I must be doing something wrong. I never blow out my lines with air. I just drain fresh water tank, remove anode rod from hot water heater. Flush Hot Water tank with wand, then hook up hose adapter to "Winterize" inlet, put hose down in anti freeze jug, turn pump on and run every faucet till pink stuff comes out then open lower point drains till pink stuff comes out.
Have never froze anything up in these Indiana winters for the last 5 years except one time I forgot to open outdoor faucet and run pink stuff through it. Had to replace faucet.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by indy roadrunner

I must be doing something wrong. I never blow out my lines with air. I just drain fresh water tank, remove anode rod from hot water heater. Flush Hot Water tank with wand, then hook up hose adapter to "Winterize" inlet, put hose down in anti freeze jug, turn pump on and run every faucet till pink stuff comes out then open lower point drains till pink stuff comes out.
Have never froze anything up in these Indiana winters for the last 5 years except one time I forgot to open outdoor faucet and run pink stuff through it. Had to replace faucet.
indy,
You're not doing anything wrong. The way you winterize is one accepted method. The compressed air method is another and just eliminates having to fill the entire fresh water system with "the pink stuff". It is just a personal preference and both methods will work equally well when their individual procedures are followed.

Jack
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:20 AM   #18
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Art, our small compressor just limits how much air it can supply at the required pressure before "running out of breath" and the motor firing up, so we have to wait to regain pressure and resume operations. I'm not actually sure of its capacity - it has two small tanks, but I suspect that your new "pancake" unit is bigger.
Indy, we use the air method because we hate the taste of the pink stuff that seems to persist for a while after we flush out the lines with water in the spring. We do put pink stuff in the waste tanks, but we don't taste them...
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:25 AM   #19
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This is exactly the way I have been winterizing the old Challenger ever since day one. Never had any problem. Also, discovered that if I open all faucets, the pressure releif valve on the hot water heater and then, open the low point drains, once all of the water in the lines and water heater is drained, I get very little water from any of the faucets when I hook up air to blow everything out. Seems to allow a minimum of water that goes down into the holding tanks. The tanks have already been drained and back flushed so, I don't worry about that little bit that is going to freeze solid because, the tanks are vented and there is room for that to freeze without damaging the tanks. Besides, there is most likely some pink in the tanks anyway because of what I poured down the p-traps and toilet.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:41 AM   #20
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My wife's list is much shorter:

1). Tell husband to winterize trailer.
2). Check every 20 minutes to make sure he hasn't blown up anything or killed himself.
3). Repeat #2 until job is done.

So far it's worked every year.
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